Hi Mike I am well! Yourself?
Yes you should measure the three temps. I use one probed thermometer in the hot side hide this is fairly important temp. I use a second measuring ambient air temps. For the rest I run a IR thermometer (sometimes called an IR gun or non contact thermometer.) The cool side surface will usually be close to the air temp.
Yes monitoring in case of failure is very important. Every t-stat but the herpstats I recommend a second to act as a failsafe. To protect in case of failure. The mechanical relay many herpstats have calls this into question.
You will not be able to correctly regulate a UTH ad CHE on a single t-stat you need two or dual probes (HS2) to do this. PLEASE get the cage and everything set up in advance of the snake so you have time to tune it and get everything right with out running the risk of burns to the snake. Depending on the set up in some cases a fluorescent light and LED nigh lights will heat the air to hold correct ambient temps. They are safer cheaper and easier to run that a CHE I would suggest trying this first it is a small investment compared to a CHE and stat.
The best position for a THERMOSTAT probe is on the out side between the UTH and cage. There are other options but they should only be explored when this method fails to produce stable temps you will need to experiment before the snake arrives.
The THERMOMETER probes don't need to be secured they can wiggle around with no issues. I just use the suction cup on the inside of the hot hide and expect it to be mid 80s and check every day while setting up with an IR gun.
If you decide to secure the Thermometer probe do so with hot melt (no snake until it cools) and do the complete cable so the snake cannot get bound up in the loose middle with firmly fixed ends. Either loose or fixed not half way.
Drill with a new very sharp bit works just fine.
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