been absent for awhile ...back with Dumeril Boa Q's

[mommanessy247]

but im back with some dumeril boa Q's for those who've got years experience with them.
I'm getting a dumeril's boa this coming weekend with her current setup & was wondering what their shedding process is & if its similar to ball pythons. I own a ball python so im familiar with her shed cycles & the stages but i was wanting the same info for Dums.
I've searched all over the internet for more Dumerils info but am not having much luck.
As for the current set up,
From what i've seen in the picture the boa is currently housed in a big tank with a screen lid & theres a single large water dish...& that's it.
There's a heatpad (unknown on a thermostat as i keep forgetting to ask the owner if he has it on a t-stat) & i believe a light as well. Not sure if i'll continue using that with the set up but we'll see.
Her owner says she burrows in the substrate so there really isnt a need for hides (i'll probably supply a couple homemade dollar store bowl hides anyways).
I'll cover 3 sides of the boa's tank & get an accurite digital hygrometer.
I already have the temp gun & bedding that i use with my BP so thats covered but the boa's set up will also include left over bedding as well.

[TheWinWizard]

Dumerils Boas are resilient animals, and make an excellent first snake. They require a temperature gradient ranging from 75-85 degrees. Dumerils Boas will occasionally utilize a hot spot up to 90 degrees. Dumerils don’t require high humidity, but do best between 40-60%. If your Dumerils Boa sheds in pieces, you need to raise the humidity level. This is accomplished in several simple ways. The most important factor is to limit ventilation in order to avoid transfer of humid air from the cage to the room around it. Dumerils Boas should have a large water bowl. The evaporating water will increase the humidity level in the cage.

[BFE Pets]

I personally don't use hides in my dumerils cages. I just make sure that the aspen is deep enough that they feel secure. They are ambush predators so they really like to burrow and wait on food to wander by. Thewinwizard has the general info on them 100% correct. as for the shed process its basicly the same as any other. they get pink belly, then go blue, then clear up, and then shed. from what I've noticed on mine it does take a little longer for the process than a ball but still the same process. good luck and hope you enjoy it. Dums are great and my personal favorite boa. I've got 3 and they are all recues.

[mommanessy247]

thx guys. i plan to use the same routine i do with my royal - once i notice the dull skin & pink belly, cover screen top with wet (but not dripping) hand towels, place water dishes over part of the spot where the heat pad is & moisten the bark.
Think i'll cover the screen with aluminum foil too & leave a hole in the foil for the light to shine through.
i bought an accurite digital hygrometer from walmart today for the boa's tank & am still trying to work out what i can use to cover the 2 sides & back. I have a terrarium background on my ball's cage so just need to find another for the boa's...might end up using cardboard for the time being *
Another thing is the boa is currently eating several lrg p/k mice every 2 weeks but i'll need to switch her to rats of equivalent size so she can take whatever feeders my ball refuses & she is picky on young rat sizes so, yeah.
i need the boa to be able to take my ball's refusals & so far other ppl i've spoken to about dums said that they're NOT hard to switch over at all.
i was thinking i was gonna have to do the whole cross scenting thing with a rat scented in mouse bedding & gradually reduce the mouse scenting til the boa accepted a rat without the mouse smell.
If i can get more info on this from you other dumerils owners that would be great!
IM SO EXCITED!!!

[nick654377]

mine generally sheds every 4 weeks. i feed her every friday about 10% of body weight. it doesnt leave a lump. they are awesome boas. beware they can be a pain to get to eat after a move. took mine about a month but she never missed a meal yet. it takes her about a week to shed from her eyes going blue to the finished shed. they have a slow metabolisum so dont over feed. it is not a ball.how big is yours that you are getting? mine is about the 500g mark and im ready to switch her over to every 10 days. a slow grown boa is a healthy boa.

[mommanessy247]

i dont know the boa's weight yet but the guy said she 1-2 yrs old & about 3 ft long-ish...
heres the pic i have of her...
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/k...%20boa/boa.jpg

[mommanessy247]

ok so. come to find out that the guy with this boa im getting does not have a t-stat with the heat pad & im not sure he's been checking temps if he's so sure that "since the heat pad goes under the cage it wouldnt need a t-stat cuz its not creating direct heat."
I informed him that snakes have been burned through the bottom of their cage from an uncontrolled heat pad & thats not a risk im willing to take as i wouldnt ever try to run a reptile heating device without a tstat.
He says he can barely feel the heat coming through the bottom of the cage...(guess that means his fingers are the thermometer )
oh my god i'm facepalming so bad right now.
So now either he's running a very low wattage heat pad & the snake's highest temp is likely 80-85 at best (god only knows what the cool side is) or he's using the lamps too cuz he knows his heat pad's probly not producing enough heat...
could the boa be ok with just the lamps til i can get the heating setup better?
I'm gonna be getting a couple heat pads & a tstat next month.
or i'll just check the type of heat pad he's got & its temp with my temp gun & if the temps are in fact low, then use it WITH the lights & just keep checking & monitoring the temps?