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  1. #1
    Registered User GerryJ0710's Avatar
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    Let there be light!

    I don't YET have a Ball Python because I have wanted to do as much research about the species, care, husbandry and all that good stuff before I did get one. The one question I'm still not sure about the answer is whether or not a light source is really needed, to give off heat for the snake and of course just to light up the enclosure. Every YouTube video says a light heat source is absolutely needed to give the snake proper heat (along with an under-tank heat pad) And then there's that ONE video that says a light source is not needed as long as there's a proper heat mat.

    Who can tell me what the real story behind this is?

  2. #2
    BPnet Lifer Daybreaker's Avatar
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    A heat lamp is needed if you can't get the ambient temps where they should be in the tank.

    I give my BPs a day and light cycle as I think it's better for them but this can be achieved with natural sunlight from a window (don't place a tank in or right by a window as it will get very hot inside) so a light isn't needed unless for heating purposes IMO.
    ~Angelica~
    See my collection HERE



    4.15 Ball Pythons
    1.1 Angolan Pythons
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    1.1 T+ Argentine BCOs______________1.0 Snow Bull
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    0.1 Pokigron Suriname BCC__________0.1 Goldenchild Retic
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    GerryJ0710 (04-28-2013)

  4. #3
    BPnet Veteran Capray's Avatar
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    Good job on the research!
    People using tanks often need a lamp of some kind to add extra heat. It does not, however need to be UV lighting.
    If you have a coustom enclosure and have set up heat tape along the walls, that will add heat just fine, as well as not drying out the enclosure too much.
    If you are using tubs as your enclosure, all you need are heat pads because the tub having a lid holds much more heat.
    I would suggest fetting a nice cage like one on the nice terrestrial cages from animal plastics.
    Chloe
    0.1 Het Hypo- Indy
    The cup is useful because of it's emptiness

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  6. #4
    Registered User GerryJ0710's Avatar
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    That actually does make a lot of sense and will definitely take it into serious consideration and in the next few weeks I'll actually be putting those pointers to good use because that is when I'm hoping to pick up my Normal Male BP.

  7. #5
    Registered User GerryJ0710's Avatar
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    Re: Let there be light!

    I was thinking about going with an exo-terra or Zoo-Med enclosure... Yay or Nay?

  8. #6
    Registered User Luciferskeeper's Avatar
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    Re: Let there be light!

    Quote Originally Posted by GerryJ0710 View Post
    I was thinking about going with an exo-terra or Zoo-Med enclosure... Yay or Nay?
    Those enclosures will work with a little effort on your part they can work just fine. Just be sure to size the cage appropriately.

  9. #7
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    I own a couple of exo terras. I like them but not for royals (ball) at all. There are a lot better for that kind of cash. The PVCx enclosures like http://www.boaphileplastics.com/cages.html or http://www.npicages.com/cages.html are ideal and compriable pricing.

    Lights are not necessary, however they do something that UTH, heat tapes, RHP do not, they heat air. The panels all heat objects not air. Like the sun, you can have a bright sunny day that the air is very cold, you being solid are heated.

    The ambient air temp is also important and as UTH heat objects directly and they will heat air indirectly it is inefficient and far far too much heat is lost.

    Humidity is very very poorly understood here. RH simply is a % number that represents how close it is to saturation point. The part that is poorly understood is if you increase the air temp the saturation point also changes. If you have the same amount of water in the air the RH will be different at higher temps. Bulbs do not take moisture from the air they change the saturation point of the air.

    60%Rh at 70ºF (air tempature) has 7.92 grams of water per cubic meter (gm/m3)
    60%RH at 80ºF has 15.22 gm/m3
    60%RH at 90ºF has 20.63 gm/m3

    60% @ 70ºF if the air is heated to 80ºF and there is no water source added (amount of water IN the air is constant the new RH will be 31%RH. The relitive humidity changes but the amount of water in the air has not.

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  11. #8
    Registered User GerryJ0710's Avatar
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    Re: Let there be light!

    Here's a question about enclosure sizing. Most people I have heard say that if you have a very young BP, within the first year you should have the equivalent of a 10 gal tank. I saw a YouTube video recently where the person says that if you CAN you should buy the biggest enclosure you can afford then buy as much decor and places to hide so that the snake isn't frightened and when the snake does begin to grow all you would need to do is remove some of the excess decor/foliage so that the snake can move freely.

    Anyone with an opinion on this would be welcomed.

  12. #9
    Registered User GerryJ0710's Avatar
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    Re: Let there be light!

    Could someone please help explain a little clearer what this exactly means?

  13. #10
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Let there be light!

    RH is relative to temperature. It is not a measurement of how much moisture is in the air. At lower temps 60% may not produce good sheds at higher temps lower can.

    A huge number of keepers freak out about bulbs "sucking moisture from the air" when in fact they are not changing it at all. The higher air temps can hold more water not less. The drop in rh is from increased ambient temps and is unrelated to how much water is in the air.

    I have day ambient air temps of 84 degrees I keep the rh at this temp about 45% I have never had a poor shed. If you have 45% at ambient temps of 75% you will get bad sheds.




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