Background with Snakes: (added this as I feel it gives people an idea of the experience the keeper has.)
This will be my first year breeding bps but I've been keeping corns since 2001 and breeding since 2003. 2 years of vet school though it included plenty about cows and most of my professors thought that a good snake was a dead snake. Have to love it...

Quarantine:
30 days unless I find something 'off' about the animal. This is done in the same room but a separate rack on the opposite side of my established collection. I keep the rack a little warmer as well to help them deal with the stress of the move. Luckily nothing bad has never happened. Never dealt with mites, RI's, or any other issues with my collection. I am also very picky about any snake I bring in. If it doesn't look 100% healthy, mite free, or the breeder seems shady, it doesn't come into my home. Maybe I'm too picky but that's just my practice.

Hot Spot and Ambient Temperatures:
Hot spot for balls is at 90 in established and 92-93 for my quarantine rack. Ambient is around 78 for both. Corns are kept at 90 as well though they could care less honestly.

Hides or No Hides:
All of my snakes have hides because I use plastic shelving for my racks which leaves them more exposed than the traditional rack. The balls seem to like tight hides that they don't actually fit into (though they think they do) and the corns don't care. The balls have the Reptile Basics hides while the corns have plastic bowls from Wal-Mart with a hole cut in it and the edges softened so they don't cut. I've also used the hanging basket liners made with coconut as a hide and they seem to enjoy it (corns).

Planted/Living Vivariums and Displays:
I kill plants under good conditions much less in a tank... I do, however, keep a large display rack with 3 40 gallon breeder aquariums in my family room. The bottom is currently a Russian tort while her table is being built. The middle is my 12 y/o beardie (who used to be free-range in the house). The top is my corn snake, Flurry. I don't think I'll ever keep a ball as a display pet. The corns work well for it and actually come out for things other than food.

Co-habitation:
Been crucified for this plenty but yes, I have and did actively up until December of 2012. The reason behind it was when I first got my pair of corns, my male, Flurry, wouldn't eat. Going with the "if dogs and cats can learn from each other, why not snakes?" theory, I put them together so Flurry could watch my girl, Kitai, eat. Now, the thought of what could have happened putting 2 young corns together for a feeding, horrifies me, but at the time, no one told me how dangerous it was. To make a long story short, Flurry ate and then somehow got attached to Kitai. She could have cared less about him but when we separated them after hearing about over-breeding, cannibalism, stress, etc., he would stop eating and do nothing but cruise the tank. Logically, I know it shouldn't happen but after multiple times seeing him go on hunger strike, I gave in. Honestly, I feel it can be done safely if you know what you're doing and the signs to watch for though I wouldn't do it with an animal that has an extreme feeding response (like many corns tend to, hence pictures abounding of them eating their brothers, sisters, and their own tails). I don't feel it benefits the animals, however, despite my odd experience with my first two. As nice as it sounds to think that they love each other, I know that's not reality and won't force animals together except for breeding. If they were in large 'lifelike' enclosures with space to avoid each other, I'd be fine but not in the tub systems that I prefer to keep them in.

Breeding:
Currently going with the 3 on/4 off system for my boy. Plan on keeping this up until I see an actual ovy. I put my male into my female's enclosure and use a piece of fabric to cover 3 sides (similar to the coverage of a rack system) instead of giving them a hide. I do leave the water bowl in as they have been nice enough not to be too messy or noisy about the whole thing. Temps have not been altered at all. They locked on day 2 and keep locking without any issues since then. I continue to feed through this as well. With my corns, my original pair were kept together and bred every year like clockwork. For them, they are fed in separate containers unlike the balls who are fed in their enclosures so breeding means just putting them together and making sure they are fed plenty to keep them from eying up each other. Once I feel eggs, the boy gets to go back to his bachelor pad. I always move the males to the females enclosure for breeding. Not sure that matters but it's habit for me.

Assist/Force Feeding:
I haven't done it with bps but have done that along with tube feeding for corns. I will say this, it should only be done under dire circumstances. Most animals come around in time and with the right tricks. With very weak/small corns, I have tube fed and prefer that to a pinkie pump or force feeding. Last time I had to do this was with a 3g. hatchling who looked small enough for the pinkie to eat him. After offering pinks multiple times under multiple conditions, he was tube fed with a mixture of ferret food, water, and probiotics (blended together of course) for about 4 months before he had gotten big enough to tackle a pinkie. I always offer normal food on feeding day and then, if they refuse after a couple hours, I will then do the assist/force/tube feeding. They are always given a chance to eat on their own first though. Honestly, assist/force feeding seems to stress them out a lot more than the tube feeding does. I've never had a regurge with tubing but it has happened with forced.

Incubation (maternal vs. incubator):
Haven't done it for bps but planning on using light grating over perlite which is what I do with my corns. The bps will have an incubator but corns get incubated on the top shelf of my rack.

Live and F/T Feeding:
If I can avoid it, I will never do live feeding. My albino girl was purchased at around 80g. and already had a few scars from bites. If they will eat F/T, I don't see the point to risk them with live. Part of that is probably from having it harped on in the corn snake forums where feeding live is one of the seven deadly sins. After reading the forums here, I'm not against it if done correctly and could see that many WC bps would need live feeding. Personally, I plan to never breed any snake that will not take F/T as I feel feeding response is an important part of a strong snake. I'm also spoiled by corns who will eat anything/everything/and then some... I say do what works for the snake and you but if you do live, it needs to be done right with a calm, well fed rodent and then supervised especially with young, inexperienced snakes. Yes, it's instinctual but lets face it, some of these guys are just downright clumsy.

Substrate:
Paper towels though I'm starting to think I should just own a factory that produces them. I have used aspen and ecoearth for the corns but cleaning is easier with paper towels in the tubs for me.

Lighting:
My racks get natural, Wisconsin, lighting. I only keep the lights on when I'm in checking on them or feeding. This has kept my corns on a regular breeding schedule for years without any temp changes needed. Maybe this is luck and maybe it's just coincidence, but I think light plays a big part in their cycles.

Snake Room Setup:
Room of their own that they share with inanimate objects. It has southern and western facing windows which I leave uncovered for natural light cycles. No one goes in there on a regular basis except me to check on them morning and evening so they are in a very low traffic area.

Handling:
Everyone gets time out though some more than others. For bps, I've been going based on how jumpy/nervous they seem when pulled out and watching for feeding issues to determine how much it is bothering them. Ceti is a rather nervous girl so I handle her rarely though none of them have ever refused a meal. Aria is always calm so I take her out almost daily, including while in shed. Though many people seem to frown on this, she's shown no signs of stress and I want to ensure she remains used to that amount of handling as I do educational programs. There, she is passed around from kid to kid and needs to be 'bomb proof' as I like to call it. With my corns, they are handled regularly even if they start out a bit nippy/nervous. The reason behind that is that I haven't had one who doesn't calm down after getting used to handling and with my corns, I pride myself on family friendly pets. None of them leave my house unless they can be handled by anyone without fear of biting. With bps, I plan on noting their personalities but will not push them to deal with handling the way the corns are because they seem to stress more easily. The last thing I want is to stress a baby into not eating.

Most of my experience is with corns but maybe it will help. Most of it has been learned from trial and error, reading forums like this one, and talking with successful breeders. I've really enjoyed reading the different ways people keep their collections from small to large.