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  1. #1
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    Raising ambient temperature options

    Hi Guys,

    My setup consists of a normal baby ball python in a 2ft LX24 viv with a 12x12 heat mat and stat keeping the temps between 32-35C. The problem being as i live in a cold house and country (U.K) the ambient on the cold side can go down so far as 18C which i know is too cold, even with the heating on all day yesterday i could only get it up to 20.5C max, which really isn't a long term solution anyway.

    I am looking for help to what i can do to get everything right on the cold side of the viv. I'm guessing a low watt ceramic with a stat (probably a twin stat so i have an excuse to get another snake with the spare one that's in there ), fitting and guard is the expensive option. Is there anything cheaper i could look at, like maybe an unregulated infra-red bulb or anything that is suitable, cheaper and not detrimental to the snakes health or happiness?

    I am quite prepared to pay whatever it costs to get the setup right but obviously would not want to pay north of £70 when there could quite possibly be a solution for a lot less that does the same job.

    Thanks for any advice, and have included a pic of the viv if this helps at all.


  2. #2
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    If your cage has a screen top you could very easily add a lamp our a che. Then you could use a rheostat (dimmer) to dial down the heat if need be.

    The other easy option that I have to do is use a small room heater to heat my snakes room alone. I like this because I don't need a heating element for each snake.
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  4. #3
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    Re: Raising ambient temperature options

    Quote Originally Posted by KMG View Post
    If your cage has a screen top you could very easily add a lamp our a che. Then you could use a rheostat (dimmer) to dial down the heat if need be.

    The other easy option that I have to do is use a small room heater to heat my snakes room alone. I like this because I don't need a heating element for each snake.
    Thanks for that, unfortunately it's a wooden top with a corn snake terrarium on top of it so any overhead or even modification to the roof isn't an option. They are housed in my living room, which you think would be the hottest room in the house but i personally hate heat and don't think i could live with it either.

    I'm guessing my only option is a fitting screwed to the back of the viv with a guard around it. The important questions being:

    1/ What type of bulb is best for 24hr uptime other than a ceramic, maybe black or infra-red as i would prefer some subtle lighting if it does not upset the snake?

    2/ As it is to only raise ambient temps could i just get a certain watt which *should* just raise the ambient 4 or 5 degrees (i have a dual probe therm, so can check the cold side temp) without having to add a dimmer/stat?

    3/ Is heat cable wrapped around stuff in the viv likely to raise the ambient to where i need it?

    Thanks again
    Last edited by iPHAILZ; 11-18-2012 at 09:37 AM.

  5. #4
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Fluorescent lights run around 43ºF they actually go a long way to heating ambient temps. This is what I use on a simple timer system. Over night I use LED (deep blue) aquarium lighting. The kind that is NOT dimmable. The electronics that are in to drop the power from the mains to 12v run quite a lot of heat they easily hit 33-5ºC. They also will make a big dent in ambient heating. This is a relatively cheap option and if it is not 100% effective you can always add a RHP and something solid later. (RHP do not heat air but can be used to heat heavy objects that will.)

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aquarium-F...item3f1e22f05e

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    arialmt (11-18-2012),iPHAILZ (11-18-2012)

  7. #5
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    Re: Raising ambient temperature options

    Quote Originally Posted by kitedemon View Post
    Fluorescent lights run around 43ºF they actually go a long way to heating ambient temps. This is what I use on a simple timer system. Over night I use LED (deep blue) aquarium lighting. The kind that is NOT dimmable. The electronics that are in to drop the power from the mains to 12v run quite a lot of heat they easily hit 33-5ºC. They also will make a big dent in ambient heating. This is a relatively cheap option and if it is not 100% effective you can always add a RHP and something solid later. (RHP do not heat air but can be used to heat heavy objects that will.)

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aquarium-F...item3f1e22f05e
    Thanks, if i was to go for that led strip could it be left on 24hrs and would i need a guard?

  8. #6
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    No they are totally fine the ceiling mount prevents the snake from laying against it for any lengh of time. RHP are thought to be safe and they hit 190º on the surface.

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  10. #7
    in evinco persecutus dr del's Avatar
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    Re: Raising ambient temperature options

    Hi,

    I'd guard all lights - the end of fourescents get hot enough I wouldn't happily hold them.

    I have used red fireglow bulbs on dimmers before to bump ambients with a nice hand made guard.

    The benefit of those is the fact they can be left on 24/7 without disturbing the snake.


    dr del
    Derek

    7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.

  11. #8
    Registered User weston1's Avatar
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    I have an led light strip on mine from here http://www.surreypetsupplies.co.uk/w...e-2ft-kit.html and it works well very bright but cool to touch also



    They also do red and blue aswell
    Last edited by weston1; 11-18-2012 at 05:10 PM.

  12. #9
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Re: Raising ambient temperature options

    Quote Originally Posted by dr del View Post
    Hi,

    I'd guard all lights - the end of fourescents get hot enough I wouldn't happily hold them.

    I have used red fireglow bulbs on dimmers before to bump ambients with a nice hand made guard.

    The benefit of those is the fact they can be left on 24/7 without disturbing the snake.


    dr del
    Del forgot the ends... Mine have plastic guards I never considered open tubes.

    Would also guard a RHP as well then?
    They get hot as well hotter than all my UTH do (190º open mine during the tests I did ran 120-150 to deliver a 90º hot spot I was never happy with that heat ) but as the manufacturer states not hot enough to generate a contact burn. I have decided that they have no place in enclosures less than 18 inches I though perhaps I was alone in this...

    I choose deep blue as Royals have been proven to not see well in the blue end of the spectrum and their senses are 'tuned' for the red end recent results have determined Yellow to red (IR) end has the greatest amount of sensing. I recommend blue over red based on the lower amount of impact especially royals other pythons they see more blue so it is less of an advantage all pythons see red (true, near IR, and middle IR however)
    http://jeb.biologists.org/content/202/14/1931.full.pdf

  13. #10
    in evinco persecutus dr del's Avatar
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    Re: Raising ambient temperature options

    Hi,

    I'm kind of a belt and braces keeper so probably would guard an RHP.

    The thing about using the bulbs to increase ambient heat is we know the snake can see heat anyway.

    So even a ceramic must be a spotlight from their point of view. I haven't tried blue with mine yet simply as it is easier to find the red fireglow bulbs in my area.

    It would be a good experiment to see which changes their behaviour less though.


    dr del
    Derek

    7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.

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