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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant View Post
    Shipping is so expensive because it requires an insulated box with dry ice, and they have to be overnighted.
    I've never had to have f/t rats overnighted. In a box with good insulation and dry ice, rats can stay good for at least 3-4 days. Look for a rat supplier in your region of the US and can have them shipped ground. My last order only cost $30 for shipping and handling.

  2. #12
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    Re: Feeding question~switching to live~

    Do not do it. F/T is much more safer for you and your snake. Just try to find a cheaper or local supplier.
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    sorraia (11-17-2012)

  4. #13
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    Nobody mentioned this yet, but not only are live feeders usually more expensive than frozen anyway, but you have to think about the hundreds of dollars you'll have to spend at the vet if the rat bites your snake, or worse, the money lost if the rat kills it.
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  6. #14
    BPnet Veteran 3skulls's Avatar
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    I rescued a girl a few months back. So sad to see all the scars from rat bites.
    She had a huge open sore on top of her head.
    I know a ton of people do it, but to me, it's not worth the risk.

    Cons:
    Live cost more
    Risk of bites
    Risk of losing an eye
    Risk of the snake going off feed after a fight with a live rat

    Pros:
    ?

    It's your choice but please stay with the snake when live prey is left in the enclosure.

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    sorraia (11-17-2012)

  8. #15
    BPnet Royalty Mike41793's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by luijibored View Post
    Do not do it. F/T is much more safer for you and your snake. Just try to find a cheaper or local supplier.
    Im reading alot of regurgitated myths in this thread. Please, enlighten me of all the ways that feeding f/t is safer for my snakes and... for me? Hows it safer for me? I dont eat the rats.

    Guys, snakes are very good at what they do. Even if they get scratched or bit from a wrapped up live rodent, which is rare, it'll usually heal up in a shed or too. Ive never heard of a snake going off feed after getting bit/scratched from a rodent. If you're concerned what you can do is watch and make sure the snake gets a clean strike on the rat and if it doesnt then you can intervene. Also, never leave the rat alone in the enclosure for any length of time. There are risks to feeding f/t as well so neither feeding method is safer for your snake as long as feeding is always done responsibly.
    Last edited by Mike41793; 11-17-2012 at 08:13 PM.
    1.0 normal bp

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  10. #16
    BPnet Veteran satomi325's Avatar
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    There are pros and cons to live AND F/T.
    Both can be safe and dangerous.
    Plenty of snakes have died from f/t feeders too.

    Personally, live is cheaper for me.
    I breed my own and the rats pay for themselves. Just 3 of my dumbos can pay for 2 months worth of supplies. Basically free food for my snakes. The only cost is my time.

    Either way, it's all personal preference in the end. You just have to feed responsibly. Be aware and vigilant. If live, there are methods to keep feeding safe. Most serious live feeder injuries come from feeding prey that is too large.

    Some responsible live feeding tips:

    1) Feed the appropriate size food. I like smaller and more frequent meals than larger and less often. Weanlings and small rats are safe and harmless(to some extent). They're also not as conscious to danger as an adult would be. Adult rats can pack a nasty bite and are much stronger at fighting back, which is why "smaller and more frequent" is the way to go. I feed all of my adults weaned/small rats once a week. And multiple smalls for the big girls. A medium size would be the max appropriate size for a ball python.

    2) Keep the feeder well fed and hydrated. They're less likely to see your snake as food. Hungry rats are dangerous rats. They will eat your snake if left unattended for extended periods of time. This is the reason for most snake killing incidences.

    3) Don't dangle the live feeder. This puts them in panic mode. A freaked out feeder is a dangerous feeder. Gently place the feeder into your enclosure. Calm feeders are good.

    4) Monitor your feedings and keep a tool, such as tongs, on hand to assist your snake in case the feeder tries to bite down. I use a chop stick to stick in the feeder's mouth if its in a bad position.

    5) Don't keep the feeder in with your snake longer than 30 mins max or so. Some people have a shorter time frame. If he doesn't eat within that time frame, take out the feeder and save it for next week.


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    Last edited by satomi325; 11-17-2012 at 08:23 PM.

  11. #17
    Registered User KornSnake's Avatar
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    Re: Feeding question~switching to live~

    If you want to continue frozen, check for any reptile shows near you. A lot of times, someone there will be selling frozen feeders. I do both live and F/T. I have two snakes that will only take live so I keep two (mice..they wont eat rats) breeders on hand just for them but I buy my others frozen.

  12. #18
    BPnet Veteran SylverTears's Avatar
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    I would stick with frozen. You can buy bulk frozen thawed large rats from websites such as rodentpro.com (that's the website I get all my feeder rodents from) for 2.00 each or a bag of 5 for $10.00. Shipping costs is the only problem, so I usually buy hundreds of rodents at a time to make it worth it.
    “You are enough. You are so enough. It is unbelievable how enough you are.”


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