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  1. #5
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    Grats on the new additions, as has been said, 97 is WAY hott even for above the carpet. . . . you need to not worry about the surface temperature of the substrate as you do about the surface temperature of the most accessible spot by the snake. Because these snakes are secretive by nature, they love to stay hidden, and this does include going under their substrate and staying right on top of a heat source (though not always). I would "strive" for 90 degrees ontop of the carpet, no hotter. And mount your temperature probe between the heatpad and the glass if you can, then use a seperate thermometer to read the carpet temperature so you have an idea of how it all relates.

    1 1/2" is fine, even a little on the thick side for a young snake. Keep in mind that heat has to escape through the substrate. You have carpet on the bottom and that's already going to trap a lot of the heat trying to get out and cause heat to build up. Adding all the substrate on top of this could cause your heating pad to heat up quite hot quite fast. I'm assuming you used the little black feet that came with the pad? You need to make sure that your tanks are elevated slightly off the floor of whatever they are sitting on. This gives air the chance to pass under the heating pad keeping it running more efficiently, and without worry of it shorting out. This also takes the tanks weight off of the power cord that runs from the heater. In my milk snake tubs, the babies are kept on about 1/2" deep of aspen chips. And their ground temperature of the tub is no hotter than 88 degrees... tubs work a little bit different though than glass tanks. . . theory is the same though for temperature control.

    Don't worry too much over all this though. As long as you dont overheat your milk snake, they are VERY forgiving snakes. Their temperatures do not have to be spot on, they won't up and die because it was only 84 in the cage. Just don't let them get too hot, anything near 100 is too hot for Milk snakes! Humidity can be moderate around 30% most of the time. Mist once a day when they are in shed to help them out. Stop misting once the shed has come off however.

    Feeding tricks: For a baby milk snake its all about privacy and confidence for it to feed. The first feedings in a new home can be tricky if shipping was involved, or even just a long car ride. For the first few times, I always reccommend my customers to use a small brown paper bag like you'd get for lunch. Put the snake inside the bag with a Pinky Mouse (Live / Fresh killed / Frozen/thawed, whatever!) and close the top with two paperclips (one on each side). Place the bag back in the snakes tank on the warm side but not directly over or under a heat source. Allow the snake to stay in the bag with the food for 30 minutes to 2 hours. If it's a live pinky you should hear it make some noise when the deed has been started. If it's frozen thawed, just check on it after 30 and if it's still in there, give it the full 2 hours. 99% of the time, this WILL work. . .. Unless the snake was a bad feeder from the start, this will cure its feeding issues without braining, scenting, or anything of the sorts.

    Feel free to message me any questions you may have!
    -------------------------------------------------------
    Retics are my passion. Just ask.

    www.wildimaging.net www.facebook.com/wildimaging

    "...That which we do not understand, we fear. That which we fear, we destroy. Thus eliminating the fear" ~Explains every killed snake"

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to reptileexperts For This Useful Post:

    Pyrate81 (10-02-2012),sparky767 (01-22-2018)

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