Ball python care

[Parallels92]

Hello everyone i am new to this forum sorry that i didnt at least introduce myself first. i just had some questions about ball pythons. i have been saving a little bit of cash to make sure i have everything i need before i even think about buying a BP. i took a look at the caresheet that this site provides. i think im gonna go with the steralite/rubbermaid tubs. my question for that is i want to buy a juveinile and keep it in the same enclosure for its whole life. i also do plan on getting another tub for feeding (sanitary reasons) so what size would be recommended for them. i am going to be purchasing a UTH for his heat source but i seen that it is recommended to get a red/blue night bulb or a CHE to keep a good heat gradient which one would be best ? is eco earth a good substrate for them ? . i was kinda leaning towards making a humidhide as well i have a leopard gecko and the humid hide does wonders for her . how would i prevent the bulb from melting the top of the tub ? . and finally should i just stick a a once a week feeding schedule ?im open to any suggestions i am an experienced herp owner i just never had a snake i have 2 bearded dragons and a leopar gecko. i dont have alot of knowledge about snakes so please correct me on anything i might have missed thank you for taking the time to read my post

[Parallels92]

O i also have a digital hygrometer/thermometer and an IR Gun

[Scubaf250]

Welcome to the forum!

Just a few quick things before I pass out (I just got off work haha) the tubs are great but you might want to get an appropriate sized one for the Bp that you get. Some snakes will feel uncomfortable with a lot of open space... I think it breaks down to 6qt for hatchlings and up to 300 grams, then
28qt should be good for most adult males, and 41qt females males over 2000 grams.


The uth should be fine by itself especially sense there isn't really a way to use it with a tub =( just make sure you have the uth hooked up to a thermostat or a rheostat to keep the temps correct and prevent it from burning your snake.

As far as hides go, if the tub is the right size then you might not need one. It just depends on individual the snake. I love my leopard gecko's humid hide but the tubs usually do an really good job of holding humidity =P

I'm sure someone will be along that will be able to answer the rest of your questions soon and give more details =P

[KMG]

I think Scubaf250 was thinking you are using a tub in a rack system not just a tub by itself.

You can use the uth but will need a tstat. A far as lamps go, that depends on the temp of the room the snake is in. The uth will create the hot spot but the rest of the tub will need to be around 80. You keep lamps from melting things by using lamp stands. Laying a fixture on the tub or tank is not the correct way, is the cheap and easy way. A lamp stand ($30 at both big name pet stores, ZooMed) gives you the added ability to move the lamp up and down therefor raising or lowering the temp as needed. Stands will also extend the life of the bulbs because your not knocking them around moving them off and on.

If you decide to use a adult size tub for a young bp be sure to give it fake plants and plenty of cover so when it moves around from hide to hide it will feel secure. If it doesn't feel secure you will find yourself dealing with a stressed snake.

What's the sanitary reason for feeding in another tub. You think mice are dirty? Remember that even when feeding f/t your snake will usually wrap it up to make sure its extra dead. Mice and rats are part of the hobby and feeding in another tub is just not needed. You would have to clean the snake after feeding to really be rid of anything you may think is on the prey and that will certainly cause stress and a possible regurgitation.

Using humid hides is fine if you have naturally low humidity. I use them.

Feeding weekly is fine.

[KMG]

I forgot to mention. Eco Earth is fine but when it dries out it gets pretty dusty. I use it for my hognose so she can burrow. For my bp I prefer ForestFloor cypress mulch.

[Parallels92]

I think Scubaf250 was thinking you are using a tub in a rack system not just a tub by itself.

You can use the uth but will need a tstat. A far as lamps go, that depends on the temp of the room the snake is in. The uth will create the hot spot but the rest of the tub will need to be around 80. You keep lamps from melting things by using lamp stands. Laying a fixture on the tub or tank is not the correct way, is the cheap and easy way. A lamp stand ($30 at both big name pet stores, ZooMed) gives you the added ability to move the lamp up and down therefor raising or lowering the temp as needed. Stands will also extend the life of the bulbs because your not knocking them around moving them off and on.

If you decide to use a adult size tub for a young bp be sure to give it fake plants and plenty of cover so when it moves around from hide to hide it will feel secure. If it doesn't feel secure you will find yourself dealing with a stressed snake.

What's the sanitary reason for feeding in another tub. You think mice are dirty? Remember that even when feeding f/t your snake will usually wrap it up to make sure its extra dead. Mice and rats are part of the hobby and feeding in another tub is just not needed. You would have to clean the snake after feeding to really be rid of anything you may think is on the prey and that will certainly cause stress and a possible regurgitation.

Using humid hides is fine if you have naturally low humidity. I use them.

Feeding weekly is fine.

yea im just using one tub


Ok a tstat it is then would a dimmer work by anychance ? and i will be sure to buy enought plants and other decorations in the enclosure to make the BP feel safe and secure. No i dont think mice are dirty . i was told before that if you feed a snake in its enclosure that it could bite you if you had to move stuff around or clean im probably wrong but like i said i have no experience with BPs. im aware that its part of the hobby just wanted to be precocious about everything. i guess ill just have to checmk my humidity reading when i get it to see what adjustments need to be made as for the eco earth i use it for my leo that stuff does dry out fast. would misting it daily (or when needed) suffice ? and as for cleaning the snake after feedings just soak him in luke warm water ?

thanks you and Scubaf250 for your help

[AK907]

yea im just using one tub


Ok a tstat it is then would a dimmer work by anychance ? and i will be sure to buy enought plants and other decorations in the enclosure to make the BP feel safe and secure. No i dont think mice are dirty . i was told before that if you feed a snake in its enclosure that it could bite you if you had to move stuff around or clean im probably wrong but like i said i have no experience with BPs. im aware that its part of the hobby just wanted to be precocious about everything. i guess ill just have to checmk my humidity reading when i get it to see what adjustments need to be made as for the eco earth i use it for my leo that stuff does dry out fast. would misting it daily (or when needed) suffice ? and as for cleaning the snake after feedings just soak him in luke warm water ?

thanks you and Scubaf250 for your help

A dimmer would work if your tub is in a very temperature stable part of your house, but honestly you will end up tweaking it constantly. You can get a cheap thermostat by Hydrofarm on Amazon.com. They are about $30. Not the most accurate, but they will keep your temps within a safe range.

Cage aggression from feeding in your enclosure is a myth. You are actually more likely to get bitten when feeding in a separate enclosure. Just think of taking the snake out of the separate enclosure and it still being in "attack/feeding mode". THIS is how you get bit. We feed all of our snakes in their tubs every time and have for years and we have ZERO cage aggressive snakes. Any breeder will tell you the same. Also, feeding ball pythons in a separate enclosure causes a lot of unnecessary stress and is a common factor in ball pythons going off feed.

Lastly, don't bother with mice. Ball pythons can eat appropriate sized rats right out of the egg. Mice won't be a substantial meal for very long (a couple months as best) and then you will have to feed multiples at every feeding. Getting them started on rats right away is a LOT easier than switching a mouser who has imprinted on mice. Rats are also slightly more nutritious than mice.

[KMG]

Don't soak your snake after feeding. When you said you would use another tub for sanitary reasons I was taking a guess at what you meant. A soak every one in awhile can be beneficial though. Just remember that what may feel Luke warm to you is probably hot for them.

Just feed in the one tub. It will not make it aggressive.

If you find yourself needing to mist to keep humidity up then it may help to make the eco earth less dusty but I would not say mist it just to keep the dust down. I let mine dry out and stay dry.

I would suggest getting a tstat over a dimmer. A tstat will cut power if things start getting to hot but a dimmer will continue to heat which could cause the tub to overheat.

[Parallels92]

Don't soak your snake after feeding. When you said you would use another tub for sanitary reasons I was taking a guess at what you meant. A soak every one in awhile can be beneficial though. Just remember that what may feel Luke warm to you is probably hot for them.

Just feed in the one tub. It will not make it aggressive.

If you find yourself needing to mist to keep humidity up then it may help to make the eco earth less dusty but I would not say mist it just to keep the dust down. I let mine dry out and stay dry.

I would suggest getting a tstat over a dimmer. A tstat will cut power if things start getting to hot but a dimmer will continue to heat which could cause the tub to overheat.

yea im just going to get a t stat instead of a dimmer that makes sense and im going to feed the bp rats in the same senclosure thank you for clearing that up with me . and as for the soaking i know that whats warm to us to warmer to a reptile im gonna use my ir gun when i do soak him once in a while so with that being said what temp would you recommend ? so your saying just let the eco earth dry out ? when should i mist it then ? or does it depend on how the humidity is in the tub ?

- - - Updated - - -

A dimmer would work if your tub is in a very temperature stable part of your house, but honestly you will end up tweaking it constantly. You can get a cheap thermostat by Hydrofarm on Amazon.com. They are about $30. Not the most accurate, but they will keep your temps within a safe range.

Cage aggression from feeding in your enclosure is a myth. You are actually more likely to get bitten when feeding in a separate enclosure. Just think of taking the snake out of the separate enclosure and it still being in "attack/feeding mode". THIS is how you get bit. We feed all of our snakes in their tubs every time and have for years and we have ZERO cage aggressive snakes. Any breeder will tell you the same. Also, feeding ball pythons in a separate enclosure causes a lot of unnecessary stress and is a common factor in ball pythons going off feed.

Lastly, don't bother with mice. Ball pythons can eat appropriate sized rats right out of the egg. Mice won't be a substantial meal for very long (a couple months as best) and then you will have to feed multiples at every feeding. Getting them started on rats right away is a LOT easier than switching a mouser who has imprinted on mice. Rats are also slightly more nutritious than mice.

ok so a rat pup like once a week would be good for the BP ? and i didnt know that rats were a tad more nutritious thanks for telling me that im hoping to have everything i need in the next week or 2 im very anxoius to get one just dont wanna get it without all the needs for a BP

[KMG]

Mist according to what the tub needs. Most tubs hold humidity very well so misting will probably not be needed often, if at all. You may even need to let the EcoEarth dry out some before using it in a sealed tub. I would get that set up so you can start testing the tub before you get a snake.

If you put the Eco Earth in the tub and you start getting moisture collecting on the sides or lid try letting the substrate dry out some then try again. You may find that it just holds to much moisture for tub use. I use ForestFloor cypress mulch, which is moist in the bag. When i set up a huge tub for my blood python's temporary home I had to let it dry out before putting the lid on because i had way to much humidity. I let it dry out and keep 55 to 67 humidity now. I think you would have a much easier time just using cypress mulch.

I have never tried using the temp gun on water but i guess that would work. I have a watch with a thermometer i use. I try to keep the water 80-85. I haven't soaked for awhile now. I started keeping moss in the hides and just mist it every few days.