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  1. #21
    BPnet Veteran The Serpent Merchant's Avatar
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    Re: My ball pythons cage has a dead mouse carcass in it!!

    Quote Originally Posted by bpownerjoey View Post
    If you have anything you think i should know or do in order to improve my balls living conditions and improve my knowledge to take care of her im all for constructive criticism. Id rather have her healthy and happy.

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    Ahh, ill find one im sure. I fell bad for her. Id be mad if i ate a whole mouse and it came out half eaten.
    Well these threads pretty much cover everything that is important:

    http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

    http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...04#post1845904

    This is how I set up my Cages for my BP's



    This thread goes over my cages in detail.

    http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...With-Pictures!
    ~Aaron

    0.1 Pastel 100% Het Clown Ball Python (Hestia)
    1.0 Coastal/Jungle Carpet Python (Shagrath)
    0.1 Dumeril's Boa (Nergal)

    0.1 Bearded Dragon (Gaius)

    1.0 Siberian Husky (Picard)
    0.1 German Shepherd/Lab Mix (Jadzia)

  2. #22
    BPnet Senior Member I-KandyReptiles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpownerjoey View Post
    As for the ball, should i leave her to herself for a couple days or continue with my normal handling? I will definatlely be getting a humidity and temp gauge, and will go back down to the size i used before for the mouse untill she gets a bit thicker. I bought her from petco a little over a month ago and she was quite slim. Doing well though and is great with [b]. Didnt mind be taking her eyecaps off [/]at all.
    Next time she sheds, leave her eyes alone! You can easily damage the baby's eye. If she retains eyecaps, leave them alone. They should come off with her shed

    ---------
    0.1 Dog (Truffles)
    0.1 Naked Cat (Mercedes)
    1.0 Hamster (Pumpkin)
    1.1 Bumblebees (Satyana & Weedle)
    0.3 Normals (Shayla, Rita and Althea)
    0.1 100% Het Pied Ringer (Avalon)
    1.0 Pied (Monsieur Piederoff)
    1.0 Lesser 100% Het Albino poss het OG (Tinersons)
    0.1 Spider Albino (Ivy)
    0.1 Mojave Cinnamon (Morticia)
    1.1 Normal BCIs (Damon and Conga)
    0.1 Crested Gecko (Natasha)
    0.0.1 Rosehair Tarantula (Charlotte)
    0.0.1 P.Metallica
    0.0.1 A.Avicularia
    0.0.2 P.Irminia
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    0.0.1 N.Coloratovillosus
    ?.?.? ASFs

  3. #23
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    [IMG]file:///C:/Users/Dana/AppData/Roaming/Skype/Pictures/Picture%20of%20me%203.png[/IMG]
    That is my ball pythons enclosure. Not too good of a pic though. the water is on the right and hide on the left. Turned light off for pic.

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    i read that if you leave them on infection can grow.

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    hmm pic didnt work.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Id like to post a pic but cant quite fgure out how.

    - - - Updated - - -

    http://i45.tinypic.com/aouels.png i think that should work.

    - - - Updated - - -

    if not maybe this? lol https://lh4.ggpht.com/rVWQHl0D2q4Jkk1s6wY5IyxU2YFdntE3OYl4sjt8NpABJ2Plbz5OuK56bSg31qMJxbwfuA=s85

    - - - Updated - - -

    http://tinypic.com/?t=postupload one of these is bound to work.

  4. #24
    BPnet Veteran The Serpent Merchant's Avatar
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    How to post pictures:

    http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...with-pictures)

    I have never heard of retained eyecaps causing infections... The issue with removing them is that you risk damaging the eyes. Generally on this site we suggest waiting to see if they will come off with the next shed...
    ~Aaron

    0.1 Pastel 100% Het Clown Ball Python (Hestia)
    1.0 Coastal/Jungle Carpet Python (Shagrath)
    0.1 Dumeril's Boa (Nergal)

    0.1 Bearded Dragon (Gaius)

    1.0 Siberian Husky (Picard)
    0.1 German Shepherd/Lab Mix (Jadzia)

  5. #25
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    Re: My ball pythons cage has a dead mouse carcass in it!!

    http://tinypic.com/r/aouels/6
    This one works guys!

    - - - Updated - - -

    - - - Updated - - -

    Good to know. Atleast i wasnt rough with it. I didnt put any pressure just went over it with a soaked que tip and as it got wet it began to come off.
    Last edited by bpownerjoey; 07-14-2012 at 04:09 AM.

  6. #26
    BPnet Veteran The Serpent Merchant's Avatar
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    Looks like a good start... Make sure your temps are correct and you should be fine.
    ~Aaron

    0.1 Pastel 100% Het Clown Ball Python (Hestia)
    1.0 Coastal/Jungle Carpet Python (Shagrath)
    0.1 Dumeril's Boa (Nergal)

    0.1 Bearded Dragon (Gaius)

    1.0 Siberian Husky (Picard)
    0.1 German Shepherd/Lab Mix (Jadzia)

  7. #27
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    Images: 55
    Apart from a dimmer I like to use light stands. That way I can raise or lower the light to help get the right temp. They also allow you to remove the top without moving the lights, which helps the life of the bulb and your heat source is never lost so your tank will still be warm when you put the lid back on.

    In a room that hot a 75 watt bulb should be to hot. The temp on the side on the tank and the surface temp are two different animals. I found this out when I started using a IR temp gun. Get one. It will make your tank temps much more accurate.

    In my 40 gallon tank I have a 75 watt ceramic heater on the warm side and a 60 watt day and night bulb on the cold side because I keep my house at 68. With the 60 watt bulbs hanging about 3 inches above the lid they giveme surface temps in the low 80's. With the 75 watt ceramic heater hanging about 6 inches from the lid it gives me a hot spot aprox 14 inches away of 90. Also the 60 watt bulbs I'm using are the regular style bulbs which throw the heat in a wide area. If your bulb is a basking bulb which gives a more beam like heat zone I can guarantee your surface temp will be way to hot. Again in my cold home a 100 watt basking bulb can give me surface temps near 100 at a distance of aprox 14 inches. I bet a 60 watt on a stand and maybe a dimmer too would serve you well.

    I would get a light stand with a 60 watt and 40 watt bulb and see which gives you the right temps.
    KMG
    0.1 BP 1.1 Blood Python 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa 1.0 Aru Green Tree Python
    0.1 Emerald Tree Boa 0.1 Dumeril Boa 0.1 Carpet Python 0.1 Central American Boa
    0.1 Brooks Kingsnake 0.1 Speckled Kingsnake 1.0 Western Hognose
    0.1 Blonde Madagascar Hognose 1.0 Columbian Boa

    1.1 Olde English Bulldogge 1.0 Pit Bull

  8. #28
    BPnet Veteran BPLuvr's Avatar
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    So from what I have read your room is about 80. Does it stay that temperature year round? If so i think you would be much better off (if you can get the tank off the carpet) using a UTH (under tank heater) regulated by a thermostat. This form of belly heat would help your BP with digestion and you could get rid of the heat lamp which drys the air and causes your humidity to drop.
    1.0 Bumblebee (Sheldon)
    1.0 Enchi (Jaxon)
    1.0 Phantom (Leonard)
    1.1 Pastel Het Genetic Stripe(Clyde+Bonnie)
    0.1 LemonBlast (Dottie)
    0.1 Cinnamon (Cindy)
    0.1 Pied (Pissy)
    0.1 Phantom (Priya)
    0.1 Butter (Bernadette)
    0.1 Lesser (Penny)
    0.1 Pastel (Ivy)
    0.1 Normal (Amy)
    1.0 Boxer (Rocky)
    1.0 Sugarglider (Oreo)

  9. #29
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    Re: My ball pythons cage has a dead mouse carcass in it!!

    Quote Originally Posted by KMG View Post
    Apart from a dimmer I like to use light stands. That way I can raise or lower the light to help get the right temp. They also allow you to remove the top without moving the lights, which helps the life of the bulb and your heat source is never lost so your tank will still be warm when you put the lid back on.

    In a room that hot a 75 watt bulb should be to hot. The temp on the side on the tank and the surface temp are two different animals. I found this out when I started using a IR temp gun. Get one. It will make your tank temps much more accurate.

    In my 40 gallon tank I have a 75 watt ceramic heater on the warm side and a 60 watt day and night bulb on the cold side because I keep my house at 68. With the 60 watt bulbs hanging about 3 inches above the lid they giveme surface temps in the low 80's. With the 75 watt ceramic heater hanging about 6 inches from the lid it gives me a hot spot aprox 14 inches away of 90. Also the 60 watt bulbs I'm using are the regular style bulbs which throw the heat in a wide area. If your bulb is a basking bulb which gives a more beam like heat zone I can guarantee your surface temp will be way to hot. Again in my cold home a 100 watt basking bulb can give me surface temps near 100 at a distance of aprox 14 inches. I bet a 60 watt on a stand and maybe a dimmer too would serve you well.

    I would get a light stand with a 60 watt and 40 watt bulb and see which gives you the right temps.
    I cannot afford and ir temp gun.

  10. #30
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    Amazon $10 bucks. If you can't afford this you can't afford a snake. What would you do if you need to take a vet visit?

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o05_s00_i00

    That's the one I bought. It works great and uses 9 volt batteries not the special high dollar ones some need. It does not come with a battery.
    Last edited by KMG; 07-14-2012 at 07:44 PM.
    KMG
    0.1 BP 1.1 Blood Python 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa 1.0 Aru Green Tree Python
    0.1 Emerald Tree Boa 0.1 Dumeril Boa 0.1 Carpet Python 0.1 Central American Boa
    0.1 Brooks Kingsnake 0.1 Speckled Kingsnake 1.0 Western Hognose
    0.1 Blonde Madagascar Hognose 1.0 Columbian Boa

    1.1 Olde English Bulldogge 1.0 Pit Bull

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