Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 592

0 members and 592 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.

» Today's Birthdays

Banjomule (45)

» Stats

Members: 75,899
Threads: 249,095
Posts: 2,572,066
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, HellboyBoa
Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 31
  1. #1
    Registered User Miles's Avatar
    Join Date
    06-03-2012
    Location
    Enterprise, Alabama
    Posts
    83
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    General Care Question

    I was feeding my BP today, and I was wondering, what's the ideal setup as far as increasing humidity. My tank is at 50% but I understand it should be higher, so naturally I want to learn some tricks. I already attempted to plastic wrap one side of the vent, but that didn't do anything, and currently what I'm doing is keeping a damp cloth over half of the cages lid.

    I was also considering switching my BP to live mice once I use up my frozen stash. I am told the only real thing that makes frozen preferable is safety for the snake, but as I watch him whenever he's feeding (or just in general when I'm in my room witch is 90% of the time I'm home) I figure it wont be an issue.

  2. #2
    BPnet Veteran Quacking-Terror's Avatar
    Join Date
    09-27-2010
    Location
    Indianapolis, Indiana, United States
    Posts
    329
    Thanks
    89
    Thanked 44 Times in 34 Posts
    Images: 12

    Re: General Care Question

    I feed all mine live right now and I've never had much of an issue. My BP received a little bite once, but it healed up nicely. I stay nearby and keep a pencil or something handy just in case the prey tries to dig teeth in, it gives me the chance to push it away. Obviously, the larger the prey item, the more risk there is because their teeth are bigger, sharper.

    There is debate over frozen/thawed or live, and with some searching you can find a lot of info and different opinions right here on BP.net.
    1.1.0 Normal BP's, Gene and <No Name Yet>
    .1 Red Tail Boa - Ruby
    .1 Creamsicle corn snake - Gobble

    My snakey blog! Please read and comment, I value the opinions of the reptile community!

    http://snakeystory.tumblr.com/

  3. #3
    Registered User Miles's Avatar
    Join Date
    06-03-2012
    Location
    Enterprise, Alabama
    Posts
    83
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Originally I thought the whole point of frozen/thawed was to kill any harmful bacteria, but then a friend told me that once they are thawed, bacteria immediatly starts at the mice again. So I figure if Uro can hunt his food it'd make his life a little brighter, and who doesn't that for their pets
    4.1 Dogs
    5.7 Cats
    0.0.1 Ball Python

    I live out in the country..

  4. #4
    BPnet Veteran LLLReptile's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-12-2012
    Location
    North County San Diego
    Posts
    964
    Thanks
    108
    Thanked 302 Times in 208 Posts
    You can add damp moss to the cage, especially around the hiding spots, to help increase humidity. With the addition of moss, you don't have to keep the entire cage humid - you can create humid hides and let the snake choose how humid it would like to be.

    Personally, I feed all of my snakes live just because it is easy for me to bring them home, and everything I have eats readily when it's live. As long as you monitor the snake, and don't leave the prey item in there for too long of a period, you should be set. Yes, there is a minor risk to the snake in terms of scratches or bites from the prey item - but that's why you watch them. You can step in to prevent issues if they arise.

    I also would not worry too much about humidity quite yet; monitor it, but wait until after the first shed cycle to really determine how much you need to tweak it. If it sheds in one piece the way you have the cage set up now, you don't really need to adjust the humidity much at all - it's already set. If it sheds in multiple pieces, well then, adjust the humidity.

    Good luck!

    -Jen
    LLLReptile and Supply Company, Inc -- Your one stop herp shops online, and retail stores in Southern California!
    Check us out on facebook - www.facebook.com/LLLReptile
    For questions about products or animals, or customer service questions, please call our toll free number at 888-547-3784.
    Sign up for our awesome new E-Zine Reptile Times!

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to LLLReptile For This Useful Post:

    Miles (06-09-2012)

  6. #5
    Registered User Miles's Avatar
    Join Date
    06-03-2012
    Location
    Enterprise, Alabama
    Posts
    83
    Thanks
    14
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    I have currently a 10 gallon tank for my BP and it may be a while before I can upgrade him to a nice enclosed large tank he'll be in when he's larger, but I have a thermostat ready for when I have the UTH (currently using heat lamp). Is it a bad idea to use the UTH on a glass tank if I have a thermostat? I also have an electronic heater that measures both sides of his tank seperately.
    4.1 Dogs
    5.7 Cats
    0.0.1 Ball Python

    I live out in the country..

  7. #6
    Registered User mackynz's Avatar
    Join Date
    05-19-2012
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    580
    Thanks
    135
    Thanked 173 Times in 115 Posts
    This is easy to do and will spike humidity. I did it and it worked great!

    http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...tment-Tutorial

  8. #7
    BPnet Senior Member WingedWolfPsion's Avatar
    Join Date
    09-27-2007
    Location
    Plattsmouth, NE
    Posts
    5,168
    Thanks
    124
    Thanked 1,785 Times in 1,134 Posts
    Images: 1
    Well, most ball pythons aren't eating mice for very long, anyhow. They're generally on rats by age 1. It's much more convenient to buy frozen rats in bulk online (and a big savings in cash, too). There's always a chance that the rodent will bite your snake, and sometimes these wounds can become infected, or are in a horrible location (like in the eye!) You don't want that to happen to your pet.
    I don't recommend switching a ball python that is perfectly happy eating frozen, over to eating live.

    Freezing has nothing to do with bacteria, it's about reducing parasite risks (freezing for several months kills most parasites), and about safety for the snake.
    --Donna Fernstrom
    16.29 BPs in collection, 16.11 BP hatchlings
    Eclipse Exotics
    http://www.eclipseexotics.com/
    Author Website
    http://donnafernstrom.com
    Follow my Twitters: WingedWolfPsion, EclipseMeta, and EclipseExotics

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to WingedWolfPsion For This Useful Post:

    Miles (06-09-2012)

  10. #8
    BPnet Veteran LLLReptile's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-12-2012
    Location
    North County San Diego
    Posts
    964
    Thanks
    108
    Thanked 302 Times in 208 Posts

    Re: General Care Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Miles View Post
    I have currently a 10 gallon tank for my BP and it may be a while before I can upgrade him to a nice enclosed large tank he'll be in when he's larger, but I have a thermostat ready for when I have the UTH (currently using heat lamp). Is it a bad idea to use the UTH on a glass tank if I have a thermostat? I also have an electronic heater that measures both sides of his tank seperately.
    You can use the thermostat for the light bulb, too.

    UTH's can be used with a glass tank quite safely. Just use the little tabs that come with it to keep the tank slightly elevated, which allows for airflow underneath. The airflow keeps the pad from overheating, especially when used in combination with a thermostat.

    -Jen
    LLLReptile and Supply Company, Inc -- Your one stop herp shops online, and retail stores in Southern California!
    Check us out on facebook - www.facebook.com/LLLReptile
    For questions about products or animals, or customer service questions, please call our toll free number at 888-547-3784.
    Sign up for our awesome new E-Zine Reptile Times!

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to LLLReptile For This Useful Post:

    Miles (06-09-2012)

  12. #9
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-01-2010
    Location
    NS Canada
    Posts
    6,062
    Thanks
    657
    Thanked 1,795 Times in 1,391 Posts
    Images: 11
    Freezing does reduce the chance of parasites some. Even for 40 hours it is reduced quite a lot. The people I know whom feed live just do a annual fecal test. It isn't a big deal either way just supervise feedings. personally frozen is so much more convenient that I'd never switch it becomes a pain when you have to keep refusals.

  13. #10
    Registered User lpj6sc's Avatar
    Join Date
    05-15-2012
    Posts
    9
    Thanks
    3
    Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post

    Re: General Care Question

    Quote Originally Posted by Miles View Post
    I was feeding my BP today, and I was wondering, what's the ideal setup as far as increasing humidity. My tank is at 50% but I understand it should be higher, so naturally I want to learn some tricks. I already attempted to plastic wrap one side of the vent, but that didn't do anything, and currently what I'm doing is keeping a damp cloth over half of the cages lid.

    I was also considering switching my BP to live mice once I use up my frozen stash. I am told the only real thing that makes frozen preferable is safety for the snake, but as I watch him whenever he's feeding (or just in general when I'm in my room witch is 90% of the time I'm home) I figure it wont be an issue.
    If you're using a glass tank (which is what I'm assuming) it's going to be SO MUCH HARDER to keep the humidity where it needs to be. Misting and keeping a water bowl on the hot side might help. I recently switched my BP to a 34qt plastic tub and it is much easier to keep the humidity regular with no misting or extra precautions. I just have a big ceramic water bowl and its good to go 50% is not a bad humidity, really.. but when the snake is in shed you need to up the humidity to around 65%!

    Personally, I feed F/T because it seems more humane to me and it's much easier as far as storage goes. I don't think there is really any benefit to switching to live mice, but I could be wrong!

  14. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to lpj6sc For This Useful Post:

    Miles (06-09-2012),Slim (06-09-2012)

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1