New hatchling

[TelegramDeathThreat]

So I got my son a BP hatchling for his 10th bday (he named him Luke), but I am taking care of him mainly for the obvious reason. The little guy is beautiful and very personable already, or at least it seems that way. He took to his new surroundings very well, exploring the grounds, his tree branch and his hiding rock, even taking a few dips in his water. Only thing i am worried, since I have no experience, is eating. He didnt eat at the store where we got him and has yet too here. From reading previous posts I am going to wait a week before trying again. Or maybe not? I was told by the store that if after 14 days he doesnt eat, to bring him in. I dont know whether or not to trust that. The girl I was talking to there owns snakes so she would have some experience. Either way, I have handled Luke often, and he seems fine, of course he will ball up but he also has no problem exploring my hands or arms, even my daughter, 5, and him get5 along. Another question, should I stop handling him for a while to let him fully adjust? it doesnt seem like he has a problem with his tank or being handled, but than again, I dont know.

[The Serpent Merchant]

I wouldn't take him back into the store, that is stressful for the Bp and might make things worse.

for now I would wait a week, and do not handle him until he start eating for you. I know that this can be difficult but it is important.

second make sure that your temperatures are correct. most BP's that refuse food do so because there is something wrong (but they certainly will not eat for no good reason as well)

Aslong as your temperatures are between 88-92 on the hot side, 78-82 on the cool side and your humidity is between 40%-60% you should be fine.

What are you using to provide heat? and what are you using to measure temperatures/humidity?

if you could post a picture of your set up we can make sure everything is all good. (I can tell you how to post a picture if needed)

Finally welcome to BP.net, I hope that we can answer any questions that you have so your Bp can live a long and happy life!

I would suggest that you read this care sheet if you have to already:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

[Trochu]

Sounds like Luke is doing well. Bit more info required, he hasn't eaten ever or he hasn't eaten at the store? What are you trying to feed him, pinky rats, fuzzy mice, live, pre-killed, F/T, and how much does he weigh? I wouldn't be to concerned if he hasn't eaten by day 14 unless he's starting to lose considerable amounts of weight. If they weren't able to get him to eat at the store the first time around, I'm not sure what good would come of bringing him back their, other than a possible refund I suppose.

Also, it will help the eating process considerable if your husbandry is spot on, two hides, one on the cool side, one on the hot side, correct temperatures etc. An excellent resource is here if you haven't read it already: Care Sheet

[TelegramDeathThreat]

Thank you for the prompt info. After reading further on the sheet there are some adjustments I need to make. I am using frozen pinkies for Luke, he did not eat at the store but the day I bought him is the day they put him out and The temp/humidity measuring device is a dial one so that needs a change. There are 2 above heat sources, one is a white bulb and one is a non light emitting heat bulb, I take it I should just scrap the white light, cause to tell you the truth, I would hate it as well at any time if there was that above me. So advice taken, i will use ambient light from the room. He has a very low ceiling, small entrance hide on the hot side, a log in the middle and water on the cooler side. Should I move that around to the hot side for humidity control? I live in NC so high humidity is a way of life inside and outside. The floor of his cage is cyprus

The temp of the hot side is usually hanging between 80-90, and the humidity is just under 50%. I can see I need the digital to get a proper reading of both hot and cool sides.





Thanks again for the help!

[The Serpent Merchant]

I suggest that you get this thermometer from Walmart (costs $12)

they measure 2 temperatures and humidity. basically you will stick the probe on the hot side (directly under the heat source at ground level) and the box on the cool side. this way you can monitor the hot side as well as the cool side temperatures.



Living in Florida I know what you mean about the humidity... 50% is perfectly fine so you shouldn't have to move anything around. I wouldn't put the water dish under the heat source unless necessary (warm/hot water is prone to bacteria growth)

Though it is not 100% necessary I would suggest having 2 identical hides (one on the hot side, and one on the cool side) this allows your Bp to regulate his temperature while still feeling secure (if they are different he might like one more than the other and not regulate his body temperature properly. (they will chose security over temperature every time)

what you are using looks ok. I personally use these for my snakes

http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

they may not be the prettiest looking hides but they get the job done.

when purchasing hides remember that they like a snug fit

this hide is the perfect size for this snake (a 200 gram pastel BP that is deep into the shedding cycle) When I got her this hide it had some room for her to grow into but not too much



Lastly I would suggest covering 3 sides of the tank with dark construction paper (or anything that isn't transparent) this will make the tank feel more secure to your BP

like so: (This cage is set up for a leopard gecko, not a snake but the concept is the same)