Heating new cages...

[Mike.P]

Some of you may have read about my awful experience with repti-racks, and with everything that happened, I really don't trust anything the guy told me when I was ordering. He told me this setup would be ideal for balls, but I just don't believe him. Starting with the fact that I had to punch two dozen holes in each of these "ready to go cages" just to get the humidity right. Anyway, just need some advice / double checking with my heating setup. When I had these guys in glass tanks, I had everything dialed in perfectly, between lamps and heat pads. The current setup is totally new to me. Here's what I have:

Five 48 x 24 x 12 plastic cages, with acrylic front doors. Each cage is split in two down the middle. For each cage I have two 11 x 17 Ultra Therm heat mats from Bean Farm.

They are the only source of heat. First question, is this enough to heat the cages? Secondly, unlike the zoomed mats I was used to, in the manual for these it states that they are self regulated and don't go above 95. However just to be safe, I have them running off of a Herpstat 4. Also in the manual, it says to use a polystyrene insulation on the outside of the mats to focus the heat into the cage. Now, (and feel free to laugh,) I have no clue what polystyrene is. I'm not the handiest person in the world. Heh. Is it necessary for me to add it? In the manual it says that without it, the mats will heat equally up and down. Could this be beneficial for my setup, since the cages are stacked on top of each other, and that way the tops and bottoms would be heated? If so, should I get two more mats for the top of the topmost cage to sandwich it as well?

I've spot checked the inside with my IR gun... The hotspot is right where it should be, and the gradient is fine as well. I'm just concerned about ambient air temp inside the cages. Sorry for the length of the post, just not used to heating without lamps. Would appreciate any advice.

[The Serpent Merchant]

Well your cages are very similar to mine so most if not all of the information on this thread will apply:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...With-Pictures!

Polystyrene is a type of plastic, it is the most commonly used plastic in the world. It is used in everything from CD cases to foam drink cups (yes foam is made of plastic)

This is not needed at all.

If the air temperature in the cage drops below 75 you will need an additional heat source. a 40 Watt Radiant Heat panel would be best

http://www.reptilebasics.com/40-watt-radiant-heat-panel

[Mike.P]

Thanks Aaron... For today and all your help the past few days. Glad I'm not the only one who's up half the night. lol. Looks like I may have to order the RHP's as well.

[Vypyrz]

Polystyrene is a high grade styrofoam insulation that is used to insulate homes. You can get it at most any home improvement store. It is sold in sheets and cuts easily with a utility knife. I am using it on some of my tubs.

Sent from my Motorola ATRIX using Tapatalk 2.

[kitedemon]

I have been testing the snot out of a RHP I did not see much change to the ambient air temps so I would save the cost and go with a simpler method. I use dual uths warm and cool ends on each enclosure and I have fluorescent lights inside the enclosure that heat the air up during the day the enclosures I have a small amount of insulation (polystyrene comes in lots of types but if it is foam it would work super well) on the top to help hold that over night. the addition of a dark blue transformed led system inside adds a touch more heat. The ambient air temps drop over night but only a degree every 1.5 to two hours from in the low 80s to the high 70s. The cool end temp inside the hide is regulated anyway. It is a lot cheaper and I found it to be more efficient. RHP are not designed to heat air but objects. Also I don't feel a snake should be able to get between a thermostat probe and heat source ever and with the probe on the rhp it simply shuts off too fast to do anything at all.