Changed tank set up, now need temp/humidity help.

[k8nkane]

I have my new BP Pablo in a 20 gallon glass tank.

In the old set up, I had a day light/heat bulb on one side and a night black light/heat bulb on the other and switched between them every 10-12 hours. I had initially struggled with the humidity, but a friend suggested I put foil on the screen, leaving a 5-6 inch gap on one side for circulation + then I put Pablo's large water bowl directly under the day heat source and misted twice a day and it held steady between 50-60%. I didn't have an accurate temperature reading for either the hot or cool side, just the ambient temp. His substrate was reptibark.

After more reading, I switched his substrate to coconut fibers which I read holds humidity better. I took out the heat bulbs and am now using just a 100 W ceramic heater on the one side for the hot side with no bulb on the other, on the advice of a reptile store worker. I also got digital thermometers to measure the gradient.

I noticed last night that my temps were low so put foil back on the screen, hoping to hold the heat from the CHE. Well, it has held the heat up a little but the humidity has shot up to 65% and my temps are out of whack and way too low still -- 81.7 under the CHE and 70.3 on the cool side.

I really don't have the funds to go out and buy anything right now to help the situation and I'm tempted to switch back to my previous set up with the bulbs because at least they'd help burn through the humidity and keep the tank hotter. Am I right?

[k8nkane]

I should add that last night my temps were up higher. 76 on the cool side and 83 on the warm side, although I'd still like them warmer.

[Skittles1101]

81 is actually okay for an ambient temperature. I think you should consider an under tank heater (UTH) with a thermostat. Save up your money, and buy it when you can. A decent thermostat for a budget is the Hydrofarm. That should fix your hot spot problem

[k8nkane]

Ambient temps are the temps in the cage overall, right? I thought the temp of your hot spot on the hot side was supposed to be at least 85+, with 90-95 being the best?

edit: I'll have the money for the UTH in two weeks. Almost all my bills are around the middle of the month, so my finances are tighter around this time, lol.

[Skittles1101]

Yes, but the hot spot should be belly heat, since ball pythons don't bask. That's why the UTH should be set with the thermostat to read 90 degrees where the snake lays, usually under the hot side hide

[k8nkane]

Ohhhhhhhhhhhh. I thought something completely different, haha. I didn't know there should be belly heat and that there was a difference between the "hot spot" temp and the "hot side" temp, if you know what I mean.

Do you think he'll be okay for the two weeks, or should I see if I can't bum some money off someone?

[Skittles1101]

I think the CHE should suffice until you can afford the UTH and thermostat. Just be aware that the thermostat is also a necessity for UTHs because without them, they can exceed 130 degrees and burn your snake. At least you have a hot side for your snake, it may not be ideal right now but it should be okay until you can afford it.