if im not mistaken, you only have one hide on the side opposite from the lamp, and the lamp is your only heat source?
if so, your gonna want some kind of indoor/outdoor thermometer with a hygrometer built in, like this:
the number on the top right is outdoor temp, which is read by a probe you can place underneath the hot hide, the console itself reads the indoor temp (bottom left), and humidity (bottom right), so your use "outside" for the hot side, and "indoor" for the cool. the floor temp on the hot side should be 89-94, with the cool side being 79-84. the ambient (air) temp should be in the low-mid 80's. humidity should be between 50-60%, and upped to 70% while the snake is in shed. if your temps arent in these ranges, you may need to raise them with either an under-tank heater (uth), or another heat lamp, or some other heating element. note: a UTH will require some sort of thermostat to regulate the temperature.
there should also be two identical hides, one on the hot end and one on the cool. the reason they should be identical is so that the snake will feel equally secure at both ends, and wont have to sacrifice the ability to thermoregulate in order to feel safe.
my guess is that hes hungry, or he doesnt like his environment. either one can make a BP stressed out and try to escape to find proper temps/ hide space, or food.
make sure your husbandry is right first and foremost, start with temps and then humidity. if your feeding frozen/thawed (f/t), leave the mouse in the cage overnight with the snake, and if he doesnt eat it, remove the mouse and wait untill next week, dont offer the next day. being offered food too often can also cause more stress. if your feeding live, wait 15-20minutes WHILE KEEPING A CONSTANT EYE ON THEM, and if the snake doesnt take it, remove them from eachother, and try again next week. good luck and keep us posted
Originally Posted by cmack91
if im not mistaken, you only have one hide on the side opposite from the lamp, and the lamp is your only heat source?
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