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  1. #9
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Enclosure size is a bit of an issue the problem there is little snakes often do better in little enclosures and bigger ones in bigger so typically I'd recommend a small tub baby enclosure and then when the hides take over a mid sized tub. (shoe box size 13.25"x8"x4.5" or so... and mid sized 16"x11"x6") Then I personally would switch to a custom reptile enclosure like a vision or boaphile It also spreads the cost out.

    You need hides small sized to fit the snake. heat source UTH (under Tank Heaters) are the easiest to begin with you will see flexwatt here a lot which is basically the same but comes in a roll and you have to wire it. It works well but for a single snake is not really practical.

    The single MOST important item you MUST have is some sort of regulator. My advise is to buy the best you can I recommend a proportional unit (personally I like herpstat but the others helix and ve ecozone ect... are very good too) They regulate the temp of the heat pad to a constant temp on/off thermostats are 100% power and 0% and under some conditions will generate a spike in temps. Some will say you don't need it as it is overkill but all cold blooded animals temps are dead critical incorrect temps will lead to health issues.

    I feel that a controller that you can set and walk away knowing that what you set is what you get is worth the extra cash it is only 110$ and is worth one vet visit.

    Temperament is a tricky one I believe it is genetic but is unconnected to colour mutation. Almost no breeders have been breeding temperament with royals I think it is a good idea to get to know the breeder you choose to buy from before you do. talk to them and ask them help in picking out a snake for you. Look for one that is an aggressive feeder and when you handle it it either does not 'ball' up or come out and pokes around quickly.

    Reading a snake is quite hard and takes a sharp eye. At the beginning look at the tongue. No tongue flicks is a good indicator of fear. The snake has no interest in its surroundings. A lot of tongue flicks is interest in the smells and things around it. Typically a good sign of a snake that will adjust well.

    I don't stop feeding mine when I leave for a week I just give them an extra water dish and make sure things are clean and go. I do have a friend with keys whom keeps an eye on power loss during my absence so he can do something about the heat in case. That is it.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to kitedemon For This Useful Post:

    Jessica Loesch (08-21-2011)

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