When should I worry ... ?

[Teacher's Pet]

I have had this four-year-old ball python since May 30, so three weeks. He ate a mouse two Thursdays in a row. On the next Sunday (June 12) his skin looked loose. His eyes looked a little cloudy. I took him in to the pet store and the gal there told me it could be a little dehydrated. I asked if he could be getting ready to shed? She looked him all over and said, no.

By the following Thursday (June 16) his eyes were opaque blue. I went to get his mouse, but the guy working said to skip the feeding since he was in his shed. Ever since then, Slithers has been in his hide. He prefers the cool side, which can be as low as 78°. The warm side can go into the high 90°s. If I put his water dish on the cool side, he burrows under it. If I put his cave/hide on the cool side, he stays in there. The humidity has been hard to maintain and goes up to 50-55% when I mist, but a few hours later, is back to 40%.

It's been six days since his eyes were opaque; ten days since I think he started to shed. His eyes are now cleared up quite a bit. He hasn't eaten in 13 days. The pet store guy said snakes can go a long time without eating. See the picture for how loose his skin is. Every bend has multiple wrinkles. So here's my question. When should I worry?

I hope I'm being a first-time-snake-owner and worrying for nothing. How long should I wait for the shed before worrying?

[llovelace]

Bring down thw temp on the warm side, to about 92-94 max.
Increase the humidity in the tank. Add some sponge or spagnum moss during shed cycle.
Don't worry about feeding during shed, some won't do it, just hold til eyes clear
13 days isn't a long time, some go months without eating, don't worry.

[PitOnTheProwl]

What are you using to heat the hot side, and what are you using to regulate it?
You are keeping him in a tank so you will want to block part of the screen lid with aluminum foil to help hold in the humidity, you could also add a second water bowl

[Maixx]

I use a humidity hide once my Bps go into shed (turn opaque).
A container with a good exit hole and a bottom to it with damp moss inside.
Make sure the moss is well wrung out and not too wet.
If your having a hard time keeping the humidity up at this time of year it might be good to keep one of these in the tank full time, but the moss needs to be changed weekly.
I also keep a clean wash cloth on the hot side under the light that I spray down to bump up the humidity.

Edit added:
Another note, mice are probably too small of a meal for a 4 year old.

[AK907]

I'll second what they've said.

Bring your warm side temps down! High 90's is waaaaay too hot for a ball python. Thats why it stays on the cool side all the time. I wouldn't go over 92 for a warm side.

Two weeks off feed isn't a big deal. I've had healthy balls go off feed for months at a time and barely lose any weight. However he/she does look a little thin to me. If its 4 years old it shouldn't be eating mice unless its eating several at a time, which can be a real pain. I'd suggest moving it on to rats. A rat that weighs 15% or so of the weight of your snake once a week works great (eg. 1,000g snake would need 150g rat). You'll notice a big difference feeding rats.

Now that its eyes have cleared up and its been a couple days, you can give it a soak in warm water (88 degrees) for about half an hour. Just put enough water to cover its body but where its head can be held above the water. This has always worked great for me when I've had snakes that were having a bad shed. Usually after this they will shed in the next 24 hours or so.

Good luck!

[Teacher's Pet]

OK, I got a rheostat so I can turn down his heat lamp. I have a 100 watt ceramic heat bulb. I also have a under tank heat pad. I will try the humid hide idea tonight, and maybe the soak tomorrow.

I don't know what he weighs. I guess I'll use my old food scale to weigh him, after he sheds since he doesn't like being touched right now.

Thank you a million thanks for good advice and settling some of my worry!

[llovelace]

Keep us updated

p.s. welcome to BP.net

[Teacher's Pet]

Thanks for the advice, and the welcome Ilovelace!

I had to wake my snake up when I put the new humid hide in his tank. He spent ten minutes or more wandering around it, rubbing his head on his back and on the sides of the tank. I thought, "This is it!" but then he went in his new hide and has been in there ever since.

I am really going to be relieved when he sheds and eats. I need to relaxxxx.

[Teacher's Pet]

}}}happy dance{{{{

I woke up to an amazingly delightful sight: my snake laid out across the whole tank, across a log with his head up; so sleek, shiny, and new-looking I just couldn't take my eyes off him. He sheddddd!!!!! He was looking everywhere for something to eat. He is not wrinkly at all, looks just amazing.

Oh, and he had two big (what's the proper word for poops?). He must be feeling just great.

Next, I will clean out his terrarium, put in fresh substrate, weigh him, and get him something to eat!

Happy day

[mommanessy247]

being in shed is a very vulnerable and somewhat stressful time for snakes so expect alot of hiding then.
my girl does not appreciate my occasional intrusions on her but i watch her eyes so i can note when they go opague and then i know she'll shed out 4-5 days after that.
for the days that her eyes are clouded over like that i cover up the entrance to whatever hide she's in when i'm checking temps, refilling water & spraying bark cuz i know she's cranky cuz she cant see and i'm not too keen on the idea of being bitten.

they tend to do their biggest dumps after shedding.

i have a hand towel over most of my screen top and i just keep it very wet (but not dripping) when i need to bump up the humidity when she is in shed and i find it keeps the humidity in better then aluminum foil. plus it helps create humidity by being wet and directly above the warm side.
believe me i stressed out big time during the 1st couple months i had my girl but i eventually just settled into a routine and although i get worried from time to time, for the most part it's easy going.
for temps i've quit stressing at not being able to get one consistant number, instead i've settled for good temp ranges: between 90 - 95 for the warm side & between 75 - 80 for the cool side. it never goes below the lower #'s in those ranges but those are the numbers i stay between.

do you have something controlling the heat pad? you said you have a rheo for the lamp...what about some kind of thermostat for the pad? if that pad is not controlled your snake WILL get burned. if the heat pad is controlled and your getting good temps you really shouldnt need the lamp...besides lamps tend to suck out humidity.
and...bp's are very shy nocturnal creatures so lamps would only stress them out.