Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 776

0 members and 776 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 75,908
Threads: 249,108
Posts: 2,572,131
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, KoreyBuchanan
Results 1 to 10 of 17

Threaded View

  1. #5
    BPnet Veteran Ch^10's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-04-2011
    Posts
    516
    Thanks
    143
    Thanked 183 Times in 153 Posts

    Re: Live vs. F/T mice?

    Quote Originally Posted by LoNeSt4r View Post
    Well the only issue i have with putting food in her enclosure is that the snake begins to associate the opening of the tank with being fed, and is thus more likely to attack at someone opening its cage. I did wiggle it around and try to make it look like an actual mouse, but to no avail.
    I feed some of my snakes in their enclosure and some out of their enclosure (it depends on the snake and how much time I have). My biters are actually part of the group that is fed in a separate enclosure; there is no direct correlation between cage aggression and being fed in or out (in my experience).

    I've fed outside of the cage for 15+ years and only recently started feeding in the cage due to some picky babies. But again, I have not seen any hard data that points one way or the other (there is great debate on the subject). If you do not handle your BP regularly and you do not get in to clean and give water, etc., regularly as dr del mentioned, then feeding in the enclosure may be an issue (not likely, but possible).

    Quote Originally Posted by dr del View Post
    Hi,

    Sounds like you cooked it or degraded it by overheating during thawing.

    That is the main reason they split.

    I would defrost it at room temp for about 3 hours or so ( or until it no longer feels cold and hard in the belly ) and then heat the head of it with a hair drier just before offering.


    dr del
    x2

    I thaw in hot (not boiling) water for an hour or so (water changed every 30 minutes) and offer. For the picky eaters or recently switched, I heat with a blow dryer. For the shy eaters, I leave them in their enclosure or feed box with it (on newspaper) for an hour to overnight.

    If you are just trying to switch, make sure it is thawed properly, heat it with a blow dryer and then try the following:

    1) DO NOT put it in your snakes face; this can scare your BP into a feeding strike.

    2) Grab the prey item about 1/3 up from the rear and move it slowly around the snake, with 3" being the closest you get. Move towards the snake slowly and back away relatively quick (i.e., mimic live prey trapped in an enclosure).

    3) If your snake hasn't grabbed by now, gently "tap" the last 1/3 of your snake with the head of the prey item--by tap I mean a light collision, again mimicking live prey trapped with it. Then repeat step 2. This can get some snakes riled up enough to strike.

    4) If your snake hasn't taken by now, leave it with it overnight. Leave the snake alone and don't check on it until the morning.

    5) If none of these steps work and you have a gross prey item cuddling with your snake in the morning, wait a week and try again. After the second attempt, I typically offer a smaller than normal live item to spark their appetite. I will then try F/T again after 3-4 days.

    6) Repeat. Time and patience. I have yet to (edit) fail at switching over a single one of my snakes, including snakes eating live for 5+ years and stubborn babies.

    Good luck! (wow, longest post I've ever written...)
    Last edited by Ch^10; 06-17-2011 at 12:56 PM.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Ch^10 For This Useful Post:

    Anna.Sitarski (06-17-2011)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1