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Flexwatt questions.
I'm getting my supplies for my leopard gecko breeding tubs. I have been looking at flexwatt to heat with and it doesn't seem to hard to wire up...I have a couple questions though. One: what would be the best thermostat to run flexwatt...I don't think a hydrofarm one would be safe enough? Two: how do I hook the wires coming from the flexwatt to the thermometer? Three: what is belly heat...and is it best? Four: should I have a dimmer also attached and how do I attach it to the thermostat and flexwatt? If anyone Can help that Would be great!
Kevin Bullis
Country Born Exotics
Soon to be specializing in: Desert Ghost, Clown, Banana, Hypo, Pied, and Spotnose Combos
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You can use a proportional like helix or herpstat or the new ones by reptile basics vivarium electronics or an on off type like the johnsons or ranco. The main difference is the proportional stats continuously supply power to maintain a set temp, the on/off type do just that click on to reach desired temp and click off when the desired temp is reached. Many people use reptitemp 500 or the hydrofarm with success but I prefer proportional stats. You can buy flexwatt pre wired or wire it yourself. Belly heat is where the flexwatt is placed on the surface the tub sits on vs. back heat where one or more strips ran down the back. Belly heat is easier for me to maintain more stable temps without working my stats hard.
Last edited by iCandiBallPythons; 06-12-2011 at 03:22 PM.
Malcolm S.
Premier Ball Python Mutations
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I can only answer these from my experience using flexwatt, I am not an expert in flexwatt so I hope if I am incorrect someone will correct me.
The best thermostat to run flexwatt or any heat source would be Herpstat or Helix, IMO. They are expensive for a reason, and IMO again you get what you pay for.
I run one of my flexwatts with a hydrofarm, have not had any issues yet (will be upgrading eventually). I have seen a lot of people on here that have used hydrofarm for years without any safety issues. I have lost power once and all of my thermostats went back to their current setting, including the hydrofarm, so my boa didn't freeze or fry. My only big issue with it is once the probe is dead, the whole unit has to be replaced, and I don't know nor have I seen the life span of the probe.
I have my flexwatt plugged into my Johnsons, which comes with a power strip. You plug the plug into the power strip, turn it on, set the temp, tape the probe and that's it. (I'm assuming you meant thermostat, not thermometer)
Belly heat is when the heat source is on the floor of the enclosure, back heat is when it is along the back of the enclosure. IMO for adult snakes belly heat is most beneficial as it aides in digestion.
A dimmer may be a good idea for a backup, however I have no idea how to hook it up with the thermostat, but I am curious on how so I can use it too!
2.0 Offspring, 1.1 Normal Ball Python, 1.0 Pastel Ball Python, 0.1 Albino Ball Python, 0.1 Pinstripe Ball Python, 0.1 Banana Ball Python, 1.0 Pied Ball Python, 1.0 Normal Hognose, 0.1 Veiled Chameleon, 0.0.1 G.pulchra, 0.1 P.metallica, 0.1 M.giganteus
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Re: Flexwatt questions.
I use flexwatt on everything using the hydrofarm and will be upgrading as time goes on, but using 5 at $25-30 it's easier than 100-150 for the others right now.
The dimmer (50%) would plug into the thermostat and the heating source into the dimmer. If the thermostat were to go nuts the heating source would still have a limited amount of juice and not max out. 50-75% of flexwatt power at normal indoor temps would be right around 75-95 degrees F.
Of course if the thermostat stopped working all together there would be not heat, but thats better than frying your critters
I don't use a dimmer but I do have a shelf in each enclosure just in case it gets too hot and they need to bail!
Last edited by rperry03; 06-12-2011 at 05:40 PM.
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Okay That Is for the info everyone! I went out and got 2x 6' extension cords cut the female end off and split the two wires. I Also got 2x 15qt hefty tubs and drilled some vent holes in the side. All I need now is the thermostat, thermometer, and flexwatt....I'm going with the 4". How much should I need for the two tubs...I'm just going to have those for now.
Here are some pics!


Kevin Bullis
Country Born Exotics
Soon to be specializing in: Desert Ghost, Clown, Banana, Hypo, Pied, and Spotnose Combos
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Anyone care to comment on my tubs and hole drilling skills? 
Kevin Bullis
Country Born Exotics
Soon to be specializing in: Desert Ghost, Clown, Banana, Hypo, Pied, and Spotnose Combos
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Not sure how much flexwatt you'll need, just enough to run across the entire bottom (closer to the back end). As far as the holes they seem okay...might be a few too many but they are spread far apart so hopefully you don't have humidity issues
2.0 Offspring, 1.1 Normal Ball Python, 1.0 Pastel Ball Python, 0.1 Albino Ball Python, 0.1 Pinstripe Ball Python, 0.1 Banana Ball Python, 1.0 Pied Ball Python, 1.0 Normal Hognose, 0.1 Veiled Chameleon, 0.0.1 G.pulchra, 0.1 P.metallica, 0.1 M.giganteus
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There are 9 a side...I will redo them if I have too....gotta see what the humidity is like when I get them setup. They are for leopard geckos so it doesn't need To be too humid...as I have humid hides for them.
Kevin Bullis
Country Born Exotics
Soon to be specializing in: Desert Ghost, Clown, Banana, Hypo, Pied, and Spotnose Combos
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Oh well that makes a huge difference! Sorry I have ball pythons on my brain lol.
2.0 Offspring, 1.1 Normal Ball Python, 1.0 Pastel Ball Python, 0.1 Albino Ball Python, 0.1 Pinstripe Ball Python, 0.1 Banana Ball Python, 1.0 Pied Ball Python, 1.0 Normal Hognose, 0.1 Veiled Chameleon, 0.0.1 G.pulchra, 0.1 P.metallica, 0.1 M.giganteus
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Ha yeah. So a hydrofarm would work okay for now? And the flexwatt has to cover the whole length on the tub? Like length wise or width wise?
Kevin Bullis
Country Born Exotics
Soon to be specializing in: Desert Ghost, Clown, Banana, Hypo, Pied, and Spotnose Combos
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