If you are going to go the tank route, I would suggest a 20 gallon long tank. You should have a UTH under one side (outside the tank, not inside) attached to a thermostat or rheostat to control the temp. I keep my hot side at 88-92, and a hide should go over the substrate on the hot side, and one on the opposite end on the cool side so the snake can thermoregulate as needed. I suggest if you go with a tank, you get some black Con-Tact paper from Home Depot to black out the sides and back on the tank, it will help them feel more secure.

As you said, a lot of people keep snakes in tubs, which is by far the cheapest and easiest way to keep them, however they aren't very nice to look at. I have tubs too and it seems to be much easier to keep the husbandry correct in them, but my tank also doesn't have any issues once you get the hang of it.

I suggest covering the screen top 1/2-2/3 of the way with anything from aluminum foil to plexi glass, it will help keep in humidity. I strongly suggest not getting a heat lamp, the light can stress them out, they can get too hot, and they kill any humidity you do have.

You should get a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer such as this:
http://www.amazon.com/Chaney-Instrum...7056298&sr=8-6
You place it on the cool side, put the probe on the hot side, and it reads both side temps and humidity all in one unit.

As far as feeding, they can eat pray as large as the largest part of their body. Most can start out on hoppers or adult mice, and after a few feedings can generally start taking rat pups. All of mine except my smallest are on weaned rats, they are all between 350-400 grams. I wouldn't suggest feeding a different prey size every time they shed, go by their weight. I think they can eat a meal 10% of their body weight (or is it 20%? someone correct me). You can get a food scale that measures grams for under $25 on amazon also, or walmart or target.

Take a look at the care sheet, it is very helpful
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...s%29-Caresheet

And welcome to bp.net