» Site Navigation
0 members and 926 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.
» Today's Birthdays
» Stats
Members: 75,905
Threads: 249,105
Posts: 2,572,111
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
|
-
Registered User
Umm I need help....
Ok, I really can't help but be nervous about the safety of my new BP in her current setup. I currently have a woodtop with a 50 watt basking light that justhangs into the enclosure. The experts at the store I bought the animal from assured me this was ok, and that a 50 watt wasn't enough to hurt her. Well common sense tells me otherwise, but on the other hand, they use this setup for all their snakes and they are all healthy as a horse, not to mention they are a pretty reputable company. Thoughts please?
-
-
Welcome to BP.net 
First remove that light bulb from the tank now, then read up on all the BP husbandry stickies in the forums section.
Check out what's available at
"The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated." - Gandhi
-
-
Re: Umm I need help....
 Originally Posted by meekjz
Ok, I really can't help but be nervous about the safety of my new BP in her current setup. I currently have a woodtop with a 50 watt basking light that justhangs into the enclosure. The experts at the store I bought the animal from assured me this was ok, and that a 50 watt wasn't enough to hurt her. Well common sense tells me otherwise, but on the other hand, they use this setup for all their snakes and they are all healthy as a horse, not to mention they are a pretty reputable company. Thoughts please?
First never ever ever have any kind of heating element to were a snake's body can come in direct contact with it ever.. Want proof turn the bulb on for about an hour..then touch it  get my drift.
No if the bulb is in a Light hood separated from the enclosure by something then ok no problem.
On a side note your're only seeing the healthy happy animals no good business is going to leave animals with burns or illness out on display..
Get rid of the bulb and get an Under tank heater and a rheostat.
When you've got 10,000 people trying to do the same thing, why would you want to be number 10,001? ~ Mark Cuban "for the discerning collector"
-
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Freakie_frog For This Useful Post:
ballpythonluvr (06-02-2011),DellaF (06-02-2011),Skittles1101 (06-02-2011)
-
Re: Umm I need help....
Hi,
The experts at that store are utter idiots.
Everyone has given great advice so I will just add that, if you need to keep the light then either buy or make a bulb gaurd for it before using it.
dr del
Derek
7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to dr del For This Useful Post:
Skittles1101 (06-02-2011)
-
Registered User
Re: Umm I need help....
Yea, I originally wanted to go with a screen top and a UTH, they told me that was all wrong and I needed a solid wood top, or I wouldn't be able to keep the heat/humidity.So I guess my next question is can someone link me to the best/ most reliable UTH, and where to buy it. Also how to keep humidity when I switch to the screen today.
Good god I knew I should have just went with my initial research and instincts, this is gonna be a expensive mistake.
-
-
Most pet stores carry uth's, which will also need a thermostat. if humidity is an issue keep the wood lid for now.
Check out what's available at
"The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated." - Gandhi
-
-
Registered User
You can also cover part of the top (1/2-3/4 depending on the ambient humidity in the room) with a damp towel or aluminum foil. I do that with mine and never have humidity issues with the setup.
-
-
Registered User
Re: Umm I need help....
A very basic set up is a plastic container, a heat pad which takes up half or 1/3 of the container (with thermostat or dimmer), paper towels for substrate, a water bowel, hide is optional unless the container is big. If you don't like that idea, you can always add on to it, change it, or use it as a temporary set up until you are able to afford a set up you like.
If you're not a fan of the tub set up, you can always buy something like an acrylic cage to help humidity, or use something to cover the top of your tank. There are many different types of set ups, the important thing is that your husbandry is right. So, check the ball python care sheets on this forum. Good luck with your new snake.
http://reptilebasics.com/
(Very reliable, various items, and amazing customer service. I use the UTHs they have there, and in the summer months I need to use a dimmer, but in the winter I don't.)
http://barrs.com/
(I haven't bought from B.A.R.R.S., but they seem reliable and cheap for acrylic caging.)
Hope that helps.
Some people recommend something like glasscages.com? I tried going there but the site was down.
Last edited by Miko; 06-02-2011 at 04:26 PM.
-
-
Can you just turn off or unplug the lamp and leave the wood top? That would save a few dollars. A UTH isn't too expensive - you can find a ZooMed one on ebay for around $20. Or go with an Ultratherm UTH from Reptil Basics also for around $20 give or take (these are EXCELLENT!). The thermostat is what'll be expensive, but you'd need one of these sooner or later anyhow. Reptile Basics has some good ones, and you can find Helix on ebay. Good luck!
-
-
Do not remove the snakes only heat source!! You need to guard the snake from the bulb. A cage or surround that prevents the snake from contacting the light. A uth can also work but don't remove the bulb until you have some other source figured out! There is no single solution every persons set up is different, tanks have been used successfully for many many years so there is no need to go buy something else.
Humidity can be a bit of a challenge but heat is critical humidity is a secondary concern. The bulb can be made to work but it must be separated from the snake. You mentioned that the rheostat worked with the bulb you can use it to drop the power back but you will still need a cage, or to replace it with something else. If you have only the single animal and I am guessing that you have it in a regular room that have variable room temps you might look at a T-stat to control it over the rheostat. I like proportional controls like a herpstat but they cost more than some of the alternatives. If you continue to use a glass tank you can manage with something like a hydrofarm johnson or ranco. They don't do well with thin materials and direct heat like a uth attached directly to a plastic tub. The on/off spikes can be dramatic with out a bit of a buffer to take the 'edge off'
-
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|