Quote Originally Posted by Lydia Mayes View Post
okay let's see f i can answer all of these questions

-I am using a heat lamp its a blue bulb I can't remember the wattage
- the warm side is 88 right now and the ambient side is around 80
- Humidity is low around 30%
- I have a cheap thermostat and humidity gauge
- I have a log hide right now just one in each cage
- I'm using f/t mice
Ok, the first thing is to help the snakes feel more secure. You can start by covering the back and two ends of the tanks. You can use anything like cardboard, colored poster board, construction paper, contact paper, or some of that fancy aquarium scenery film sold at pet shops. Doing this will make the tanks seem smaller and not so open.
You should have two identical hides. One on each side. They should be snug fitting for the snake. Log hides are not ideal, but they can be made to work by putting extra substrate in them or some balled up paper to help fill up some of the space. Personally, I prefer plastic hides, because they are much easier to clean. If you decide to go with a different type of hide, there are many differnt styles available commercially or, you can make some out of cheap plastic bowls or flower pots. Here is a link to a thread that shows some of the homemade options:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...0-Hides-my-way

If you are using a screen top, then there are two things that are killing your humidity. One is the open top, and the other is the heat lamp. I would suggest an Under Tank Heater. This will provide a warm spot for the snake to lay on and won't suck out the humidity. Heat lamps are good for supplemental heating, especially if it is needed in the winter for cooler or drafty houses, but they do cause humidity problems. Since you are currently using the lamps, you should cover the screen with aluminum foil, except where the lamp sits, and use a little spray bottle to lighly mist the tanks once or twice a day.
When it comes to Under Tank Heaters, they need to be controlled. Despite what the packaging says, they can get hot enough to burn a snake and need to be controlled by, at a minimum, a lamp dimmer, which are available at Lowes or Home Depot for about $10-$12, or a thermostat, which you set the temperature you want and let the thermostat run the heater. There are several different brands and styles that range in price from $30-$300, depending on what type of features and extras you want.
For monitoring the temps and humidity, the little stick-on dial thermometers are notoriously inaccurate. They may work for a while, but the internal springs can quickly wear out. Digital thermometers and hygrometers will work better and longer. Also, when using an Under Tank Heater, a thermometer should have a probe that can be placed under the substrate. Another option is to get a temperature gun to measure the temps.
Here is a link to a thread on setting up a glass enclosure that may help:

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...p-w-pics-*DUW*

If you have any questions about any of the items, or where to get them, just ask. One of the biggest reasons that a Ball Python won't eat is stress. And the biggest causes of stress are lack of security, improper temperatures, and over-handling. So the first thing is to get them feeling comfortable and secure in the enclosures, which alot of times, will fix the feeding issues.