Humidity and Heat Problems in 20 gal Long

[dadykhoff]

Yes, yes I know I would benefit greatly benefit from switching from my tank to a tub, but I'd like to do that as a last resort. This is my only snake and I want a display setup.

Here is my current setup:





First off, do I have my thermometer and probe in the right places? The probe is attached to the glass under the sphagnum moss substrate. The thermostat probe is attached between one of my UTH and the glass under the tank. The thermostat is currently set to 100F and I'm getting these readings with my infrared temp gun:

Hot: 86-88F
Cool: 76-77F
Ambient: 76-77F
Humidity: 22-33%

So what I'm wondering is why is my humidity so low? I thought sphagnum moss was supposed to be the best for humidity. Do I need to dampen it before putting it in the tank? Or should I just mist it?

Also, when I get my Floor Gradient Temps up to match, will my ambient temps follow suit? What is a good ambient temp range?

Should I replace my black light buld in the lamp with an infrared?

One more question regarding my UTH set up. I have two 20 gal Zoo Med UTH running on the same thermostat. Together they both cover just under half of the floor of the tank. One of the UTH seems to heat better than the other, the hotter one is further on the hot side of the tank. Should this be okay? Or should I just ditch them and buy some Flexwatt?

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for any help.
Devin

[Aes_Sidhe]

Ok I have similar setup on my first ball... first... I've recommend to switch substrate... repti-bark will keep humidity very well is easy to spot clean very nice natural looking and if needed absorb misted water nicely... second
Find a store who do custom glass and plexiglass work and order yourself cover what fit on top screen (inside plastic rim) and cover 2/3 of it ... That cost me maybe 7$ and looks more esthetic that aluminum foil You use it... I had regular Large (30-40gall) zoo-med heat pad on one side without thermostat and around 1.5 inch layer of substrate to ensure that my ball dont get burnt .... plus red night 50W in the dome on other side of tank...(running all the time as secondary heat source and i like watch sometime late evening her roaring once a while in the tank )

2 hides gonna be enough but I'll recommend bigger water bowl... Preferably near dome so water can vaporize and bump humidity lvl.... I had x-large exo-terra stone dish in my (looks very natural and cool and have little steps to ensure that Your reptile can get out without drowning) but of course is your choice of brand and style...

My Humidity was all the time on 55-65% lvl occasionally I was bumping it up to 70-75% when she goes blue to ensure nice shed...

Hope that's help.

[blushingball419]

First of all, and you might already know this so I apologize if you do, but ball pythons really aren't a good display snake. As long as they're happy and healthy, they hide 90% of the time and only come out for a few hours at night. They are still an awesome snake to have though!

Second, yup, it sounds like you have both of your probes in the right places. Sphagnum moss is really good at holding humidity, but you might have to dampen it before you put it in if your humidity is staying that low. It will evaporate pretty quickly. You could also try mixing in a little bit of a more compact, soil-type substrate like eco earth, cypress mulch or repti bark.

A black light heat bulb works just as well as an infrared, so it's really up to you on that one. Heat bulbs really kill humidity though, so I'm sure that's not helping. You might have to ditch it and move one of your UTHs to the cool side on another thermostat.

As far as the 2 UTHs, just out of curiosity, why do you have 2 for the hot side? Is that the only way you could get your temps up? Usually if people have 2 UTHs, they have one for the hot side and one turned even further down for the cool side. Your hot side temps do need to come up a little, along with your cool side temps, but yeah, when you get the floor temps sorted out, the ambient temps usually will work out as well.

[cecilbturtle]

I had regular Large (30-40gall) zoo-med heat pad on one side without thermostat and around 1.5 inch layer of substrate to ensure that my ball dont get burnt

I'm not sure if this was a typo but NEVER use any type of heat without a way way to control it. thermostats are best but even a dimmer is better than nothing. you just have to monitor the actual temps more often. adding a thick layer of substrate isnt a guarantee that the snake wont push it aside and make contact with the glass right above the heater.

you can go to home depot or lowes and get a piece of plexi glass and cut it yourself. just score it several times with a razor blade and the snap it. i suggest you get a piece big enough to cover the entire top then drill holes or cut it down to size to get your humidity right.

i also suggest you get rid of the heat lamp. with the right size UTH you dont need it. it just drys out your enclosure.

good luck!

[Aes_Sidhe]

I'm not sure if this was a typo but NEVER use any type of heat without a way way to control it. thermostats are best but even a dimmer is better than nothing. you just have to monitor the actual temps more often. adding a thick layer of substrate isnt a guarantee that the snake wont push it aside and make contact with the glass right above the heater.

I know but that was my beginnings... And.... reptile bark was a sturdy bedding not easy too burrow and i was feel comfortable that thick layer of it was enough at the time... and honestly I never had a Problem...

But.. you right... at least dimer will be nice addiction...

[dadykhoff]

Thanks for the replies!

I went out and bought cypress moss and some non-additive sphagnum moss (I found out today the bag I had bought had fertilizer additives! ). Gonna go buy a sheet of plexiglass today.

[dadykhoff]

First of all, and you might already know this so I apologize if you do, but ball pythons really aren't a good display snake. As long as they're happy and healthy, they hide 90% of the time and only come out for a few hours at night. They are still an awesome snake to have though!

Second, yup, it sounds like you have both of your probes in the right places. Sphagnum moss is really good at holding humidity, but you might have to dampen it before you put it in if your humidity is staying that low. It will evaporate pretty quickly. You could also try mixing in a little bit of a more compact, soil-type substrate like eco earth, cypress mulch or repti bark.

A black light heat bulb works just as well as an infrared, so it's really up to you on that one. Heat bulbs really kill humidity though, so I'm sure that's not helping. You might have to ditch it and move one of your UTHs to the cool side on another thermostat.

As far as the 2 UTHs, just out of curiosity, why do you have 2 for the hot side? Is that the only way you could get your temps up? Usually if people have 2 UTHs, they have one for the hot side and one turned even further down for the cool side. Your hot side temps do need to come up a little, along with your cool side temps, but yeah, when you get the floor temps sorted out, the ambient temps usually will work out as well.

I have both UTHs on one side because each one only covers about a quarter of the floor of the tank and I have read that I should cover one half to three quarters of the hot side. I bumped the thermostat up yo 103F earlier, gonna see if that gets the temps in the right place, but if the cool side doesn't follow suit I'll take your suggestion to move on of them over to the cool side. Thanks!

[Popeye]

you can go to home depot or lowes and get a piece of plexi glass and cut it yourself. just score it several times with a razor blade and the snap it. i suggest you get a piece big enough to cover the entire top then drill holes or cut it down to size to get your humidity right.

Find a store who do custom glass and plexiglass work and order yourself cover what fit on top screen (inside plastic rim) and cover 2/3 of it ... That cost me maybe 7$ and looks more esthetic that aluminum foil

Thanks for the tip on plexi glass. Ive been using aluminum foil also. Going to Lowe's today to pick up a piece.

[CleopatraPython]

Bps can see infrared lights the same way they see normal lights. For a lamp-type heat source, I use a ceramic heat emitter (mine is a 60 watt for a 20 gallon glass terrarium with a screen top that I half cover with a towel) and I’m able to keep it on 24/7; it stays around 80-90° In the warm side. Originally I’d gotten a 100 watt emitter, but it got way too hot when I tested it before putting my young BP Cleo in there. Reached about 110° within half an hour. I have small LED lights that have a little switch on them, but I have my enclosure in a place where natural lighting reaches easily so I just typically leave the LEDs off. A CH emitter is much netter, doesn’t cost that much compared to bulbs, and they’ll last insanely long in comparison. (saving even more money!)

basically, getting a CHE is worth it in my opinion.

[Sonny1318]

Bps can see infrared lights the same way they see normal lights. For a lamp-type heat source, I use a ceramic heat emitter (mine is a 60 watt for a 20 gallon glass terrarium with a screen top that I half cover with a towel) and I’m able to keep it on 24/7; it stays around 80-90° In the warm side. Originally I’d gotten a 100 watt emitter, but it got way too hot when I tested it before putting my young BP Cleo in there. Reached about 110° within half an hour. I have small LED lights that have a little switch on them, but I have my enclosure in a place where natural lighting reaches easily so I just typically leave the LEDs off. A CH emitter is much netter, doesn’t cost that much compared to bulbs, and they’ll last insanely long in comparison. (saving even more money!)

basically, getting a CHE is worth it in my opinion.

Ive been using infrared lights on dimmers for decades, not using some way to control your heat source is ill advised. I also believe CHE’s suck humidity just as bad if not worse then infrared bulbs. I personally have always used room/house humidifiers. And properly dampened moss during the shedding process. Better on the safe side. Peace.