Heating my DIY melamine cage

[Fataltix]

Hey guys,

Planning on making a custom melamine cage for my BP who currently resides in a tub. I only have one and I want to show him off (even if he hides 24/7 ) and give him a nicer house . I've got some plans all drawn up, I'm pretty experienced with wood and have all the tools to do so as well as the know-how to install glass doors, etc. However, what I'm really unsure of is how to heat this thing.

its going to be about 40" long, 12" tall, and 18" deep. Hopefully big enough for him when he is full grown . The whole thing (with the exception of a sliding glass door) is going to be out of 1/2" inch melamine. How would you guys heat this? I was thinking perhaps one RHP? But I have no experience with RHP's and to be honest the lack of belly heat concerns me. I have three thermostats ready to go and was thinking two belly's, and an RHP, but wasn't sure how to use a heating pad or tape on a cage such as this...

Halp!!!

-Fatal

[kitedemon]

Hey I have two comments I too have built custom enclosures but used plastic mostly.

The RHP should work fine I have never used one myself but a friend does and loves it. UTH with 1/2 wood is a real issue the wood just doesn't transfer heat well. If you want to use UTH's I'd suggest that you re thinking a wood floor, and look at something like PVC expanded sheet or maybe HDPE. You could just screw it to the sides and it is more efficient transferring heat.

The second comment is one of ease and convenience 40x12x18 I have a 30x24 one that is 12 tall and it is a pain in the butt cleaning. I must hit something off the top every time I do anything inside. I'd suggest that 16 or 18 height would make cleaning much easier and not really increase the cost much at all. The snake doesn't need it but it is so much easier to deal with.

[WakoNako]

If you want to heat using a UTH, put it inside the cage and then put something such as glass, tile or vinyl over the top of it. Be sure to use a thermostat.
Also, i have to disagree with kitedemon. Don't increase the height. I built a cage at 18" high and the humidity sucks in it. Humidity rises and gets trapped in the 6-12" at the top of the cage the snake doesn't frequent.
The cages I'm currently building are 14" tall and once substrate is in will probably be reduced to 11 or 12" interior height.

[kitedemon]

Mine sit at 60% with no problems I guess it depends on how much attention you pay to air flow. You have to plan to keep it circulating. Low over the hot areas and high over the cool.

[LizardPants]

Here's a couple ideas for ease of cleaning:

• Design it such that it slides open like a drawer. Additionally, it could have a sliding glass/acrylic front, or drop down front.
• Design the front so that it hinges down, and the top so that it can hinge upward from the back, put cam locks on both.

[LizardPants]

As far as humidity is concerned, a lot of it will depend on how humid your area of the country is, and how you heat your home. You may be able to get away with 18" height, and have no problem with humidity. Your ball will never use the extra height, but it will be easier to clean, and it will look nicer. Of course humidity and your snakes comfort come first.

[Fataltix]

Thanks for the advice guys, I'm considering making the bottom out of pvc or tile/glass, but I have no idea what to expect from such materials as I have no experience with them. Perhaps someone could give me some tips?

My only concern atm is air flow... I'm thinking I'd put one vent on the left side of the cage (hot) and perhaps two vents on the cool?

Thanks,
Fatal

[kitedemon]

Hmm the room I have is sitting at 12% the enclosure is at 58% I misted it late monday night. It will hold that for 7 days or so. The hides are actually a touch higher than that micro climate happening. My point is anything can be made to work it just takes careful planning and understanding how a heating and ventilation will effect the whole.

When placing vents think of air flow. Heat rises I know it sounds stupid but people forget. The hot side vents should be low outside air will be drawn in across the heat and raise to the roof. The vents on the cool side should be high to vent out some of the hot air. Remember that snakes have a long lung that extends 2/3 of the animal. Unlike us it isn't inside a big chest but just under the surface. The AIR temps are critical to body temps as the air in the lung will heat or cool the snake. You don't want to send hot air all around nor do you want too cool air either. It is a blend that is needed. Hot low cool high and it keeps the air A/ Moving and B/ from becoming too hot or too cold.

[OhhWatALoser]

here my hinge down melamine enclosures



why does lack of belly heat concern you?

I heat with RHPs with no problems, they are only 14 inches tall (12 1/2 inches on the inside) and I have no problems cleaning anything besides the back wall (they are 30 inches deep) I gotta get in there to reach lol, I'm glad my snakes are very tolerant of me when I do that.

You might want to see if you even need vents, my house is very dry and I stopped building cages with vents because I just ended up taping them up anyways, the air that flows through cracks in the door is enough for me. If you need vents they are simple enough to install after the fact.

[Fataltix]

It's not necessarily the lack of belly heat that concerns me, but that I personally prefer the idea that I know his hides are warmer and he can rest on warm substrates. Which is why I want to use an RHP and belly heat, ambient temps and warmer substrate. I know I could get away with one or the other, but I have one BP and only plan to have one so I want him in an ideal enclosure.