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Welcome! It's an addiction so I don't see were it matters what you get normal or morph. I don't use tubs so I can't answer those questions for you. Good luck with which ever you choose.
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The Following User Says Thank You to DellaF For This Useful Post:
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Re: Buying a Baby Ball Python
Keep in mind there are some great breeders in Europe that have a nice selection!
I've kinda heard many stories of having to introduce a pinky mice in the hatchlings mouth and slowly try to push it in for a bit until they actually bite firmly and start eating it... is this true? please tell me any tips you guys know! thanks!
No, unless of course there is an issue and the animal is a non feeder.
Do not buy a non feeder make sure to buy an animal that is well started, and to make sure you are successful with your future animal read and understand their needs http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Stewart_Reptiles For This Useful Post:
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Re: Buying a Baby Ball Python
to the forum for starters! Lot of people with good info on here.
Most people, and myself use Flexwatt heat tape under the tubs. Its thin and comes in several widths and wattages. Some use UTH , but what ever you go with, you will need a thermostat of some kind to control the level of heat. Most tape the thermostats probe right onto the Flexwatt(or other heat source if possible) and place a thermometer probe on the bottom of the tub right over the heat source. The hot spot should be around 90-94 degrees and the cool side 78-83. But a thermostat is the 2nd most important thing besides the heats source.

1.0 Spinner
1.1 Mojaves
1.2 Pastels
1.0 Black Pastel
0.3 Normals
1.0 Anerytheristic Corn
55 gal. African Cichlids
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The Following User Says Thank You to saber2th For This Useful Post:
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Welcome to the site! You have already been directed to the stickies and care sheets, so I'll just add a few comments.
Like Deb said, don't get a non feeder. That's a headache you do NOT need! It is true that you have to assist fed=put the pinky in the bps mouth, but that's only if the bp won't eat. You should be able to find a hatchling that is eating, there aren't that many that refuse to eat. One thing to look for is a baby that looks chubby, if it's skinny, look the other way. BPs should not be skinny unless they are super young hatchlings or not eating, you don't want either of those.
As for the heat cable, it depends on how hot it gets. You need it to get no hotter than 95 on the hot spot inside the tank. If your cable is hotter than that you will need something else. Also, I assume you heat cable is under the tubs and not inside of them?
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to SlitherinSisters For This Useful Post:
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Three meals is good! Make sure you do your homework on prices as well! You don't want to pay more than you have to and more than what the snake is worth! Good luck and welcome!
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The Following User Says Thank You to seeya205 For This Useful Post:
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Buying a Baby Ball Python
Last edited by NNJExotics; 02-06-2011 at 06:42 AM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to NNJExotics For This Useful Post:
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Registered User
Re: Buying a Baby Ball Python
Yup,
I would be more inclined to purchase a hatchling from a breeder who displays healthy, quality animals which have all had a minimum of 5 - 10 defrost feeds.
There are far too many folks producing stock - no matter the species - where they believe it's o.k. to, actually, sell animals which are non-feeders. This is very prevalent in the Pantherophis guttatus & I suspect those very people will go on to produce Python regius with the same 'cavalier' attitude towards their stock & potential customers.
Regards. Lex
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The Following User Says Thank You to Lexcorn For This Useful Post:
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