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Thread: New setup

  1. #11
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    Re: New setup

    Quote Originally Posted by snakesRkewl View Post
    If the room is 68 degrees then a UTH probably won't get the ambient temps you want andwill probably have to use a small ceramic on top of the uth.
    I'd use the rheostat for the ceramic and pick up a cheap thermostat to control the uth.
    If you want to save some money buy flexwatt from reptilebasics or the beanfarm and wire it to a cord and plug that into a thermostat instead of a store bought prebuilt heat pad.

    11x12 flexwatt = $3.60 a foot VS $20+ for a prebuilt zoo-med or Zilla heat pad or other store bought.
    With an 11X12 you can cut it down to cover 1/2 of the bottom of the tank which will help some with your ambient temps and still give the snake room to cool off on the cool end.
    Just so your aware, 11" flexwat has SPECIFIC Cut here lines which is at every 12". If you cut it through the black you will compromising the heating elements. As most 11" sold now isnt straight black lines now, rather zig zag

    http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/flex_cut.jpg

  2. #12
    BPnet Lifer snakesRkewl's Avatar
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    Re: New setup

    Quote Originally Posted by RichsBallPythons View Post
    Just so your aware, 11" flexwat has SPECIFIC Cut here lines which is at every 12". If you cut it through the black you will compromising the heating elements. As most 11" sold now isnt straight black lines now, rather zig zag

    http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/flex_cut.jpg
    All of the flexwatt I've been buying is straight line and has been since at least last year
    Last edited by snakesRkewl; 01-31-2011 at 02:54 PM.
    Jerry Robertson

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    Re: New setup

    Quote Originally Posted by snakesRkewl View Post
    All of the flexwatt I've been buying is straight line and has been since at least last year
    Ive ordered some and gotten both from same site. So who knows what is new.

    I just recommend not cutting below the 12" sizes

  4. #14
    BPnet Veteran AMBiEN22's Avatar
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    Exclamation

    Thank you all for the help not sure what type of thermostat to get I've spent one fifty on a fish tank canister filter I don't see why I can't spend that on a snake. I know there are different types like on off and ones that work like a rheostat like changes power to the connected devices. I feel like that is better at maintaining a stay temp.

    So my questions start with given it being the winter season I feel like a nice helix or a thermometer by one of the other brands will work nicely. When it comes to wiring I am no electrician so I feel flex watt would be hard for me, hence why I want to lean towards the zilla or zoo med. Anyone use these and it provides enough heat? Also for a ten gallon what size bulb would be appropriate or should I go ceramic. I'm happy my humidity is high so don't want to crash it with a che.

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    Pics!

    For those who are following my thread!!! here is some picks of the tank and some details i left out!!

    As you can see my humidity is down too 66% down from 80% so i am in a better range lol. As i mentioned the temp is super cold! Nothing is hooked up and there is no inhabitant in the cage so do not be alarmed!!! Thinking of buying a herpstat to help with my heating issue!

    The substrate i bought and seems to hold humidity like a champ is "100% Natural Cypress Mulch"



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    Talking Found the UTH

    This is the UTH heater i own keep it or chuck it! lol http://www.reptilebasics.com/ultrath...uth-6-x11.html Feel like if i tape it to the bottom if i can.... its kinda tight fit and get a thermostat it might be worthy but i had it plugged in by itself and didn't seem to heat the floor of the cage up too much. Then again i don't know what 93 degree wood should feel like.... I feel that a temp gun will be a good investment..

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    Ultratherms don't get hot enough from what I've heard from others using them.
    They are made for lower ambient temps than you're looking for.

    Temp guns are definitely a nice toy, I use mine constantly.
    Jerry Robertson

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    Ive used ultratherms for boa sized cages and they have all reached 110 in mins

  9. #19
    BPnet Veteran AMBiEN22's Avatar
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    Think I'm going to pick up a herp stat and a light, tape the therm uth and see what happens

  10. #20
    BPnet Senior Member kitedemon's Avatar
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    Hey,
    I think that one of the issues you are having is that the room temps and the insulative value of your tank vs the wattage of the heater is not quite enough. In other words the UTH isn't able to lift the temps high enough over the room temps. There are a few ideas that may help,

    raise the rooms temp,

    A second heater (CHE it help lift the aquariums ambient temp)

    A higher wattage heat source. (heat tape maybe something to think on)

    The Herpstats or Helix are great systems it is like comparing the old dial aquarium heaters to the preset digital ones. The on off style work as well, but the big question with them is how far away from the 'set temp' does it come on and off at. Some are only a few degrees and others is 15-25º which is a bit scary. A good T-Stat is an insurance policy for the health and well being of the animal in your care.

    GOOD JOB on spending some time to iron out these issues BEFORE you add a snake!

    Humidity can be resolved by misting and or mods to the tank either limiting the air flow with wrapping the lid or a bit more drastic change like this...

    http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...arium-Solution

    Cyprus is good at humidity but I find coco coir better it holds as much water as peat moss does. And is cheap and environmentally responsible as an added benefit.

    I hope this helps some!
    Alex

  11. The Following User Says Thank You to kitedemon For This Useful Post:

    Thepythonman12 (02-06-2011)

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