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A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
I posted a while back about my 2006 female normal that won't eat. I have tried f/t, pre-killed, live, mice, rats, and asfs. I have tried the zombie rodent dance, leaving it in her tub for an hour (only f/t and p/k), leaving it in her tub overnight (only f/t and p/k), pre-scenting her cage (leaving the rodent on top of the rack as she is in the top tub). And still, nothing is working. She is losing weight and beginning to get that triangle shape to her. Temperatures are always within normal limits (90-94), with the temperature mostly staying around 92. It will dip down and up depending on room temperature. Nothing has changed in her husbandry.
These were taken not too long ago.


This was her yesterday.

I was talking with the owner of a reptile store about her and gave him her info as far as weight, housing, and her eating habits. He recommended throwing a male in with her to stimulate her to want to eat. He says it is that time of year and females will sometimes go on feeding strikes during breeding season. Breeding males and females are kept in the same rack. At last weigh in she was around 880g or so. Should I follow his advice? I'm very worried that if I do put a male in with her, she might breed and become gravid. In her current condition (low weight and becoming triangular) I'm worried this will harm her.
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I don't know if I'd put a male in with her. This would seem to raise the stress level instead of getting her to feed. I would lower the temps to about 86 for a week or two. Then raise the temps back up. This can sometimes stimulate the feeding response.
Good Luck!
Jim Smith
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The Following User Says Thank You to j_h_smith For This Useful Post:
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I agree with Jim...no male. Has anyone ever told you about the paper trick? Ball up newspaper in loose balls and completely fill her tub. Give her about a week with the paper and offer her a live weaned rat. Leave it in with her for a couple hours with the paper still in. Weaned rats are pretty much harmless when it comes to attacking a snake. Leave the paper in for a few months. This adds security. This has been a very sucessful trick for a lot of problem feeders.
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Cram her in a smaller tub for a couple of weeks then offer a meal of a live mouse or ASF after dark..At 880 she can fit into a 6qt tub no problems..just give her a tub and a water bowl..
I've had to move girls back down in tub size to get them back eating before.. try that..
When you've got 10,000 people trying to do the same thing, why would you want to be number 10,001? ~ Mark Cuban "for the discerning collector"
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I'd try moving her to a smaller tub as well. We just picked up 2 '06 het albinos that are less than 600g each and he was keeping them in 41 qt tubs, no wonder they weren't eating for him!!! We moved them to smaller tubs, gave them 2 super tiny hides and they're eating on a 5 day schedule now to get them to their proper weight!
1.0 Spider "Charlie"
1.1 Normal "Precious" "Chumley"
0.1 Pastel "Sweet Dee"
1.1 Mojave "Stewie" "Little Bit"
0.1 Lesser "Sally"
1.0 Pied "Jack"
1.0 Nile Monitor "Superman"
0.1 Bearded Dragons "Snookie"
0.0.1 Sulcuta Tortoise "Kenny Powers"
1.0 Chocolate lab "Dante"
1.0 Now snake obsessed boyfriend
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BPnet Veteran
Re: A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
I have tried the male trick and it does work. I have had three different females at different times around 1 KG that stopped eating for over two months I put them in with a male for a week then moved them back to their own tubs and they started to eat aggressively again. I did not see any locks with any of them while they were with the male and none of them have become gravid but they are eating again every week. But I'm sure it is possible for them to breed and become gravid which would not be the best thing for them so I guess its a try it at your own risk type thing but it did work well for me so far.
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The Following User Says Thank You to jason79 For This Useful Post:
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Re: A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
I have two bp's (one male and one female) both just over 1,600 grams - what is the smallest tub I could offer.
My only smaller option is from a cb70 tub to a RBI Sweater box tub - would this work??
Also, does dropping the heat to 86 pose any risk of getting an RI.
Thanks.
L. West
1.0 CORAL ALBINO BOA (OWEN)
1.0 PANAMANIAN HYPO BOA (SAWYER)
1.0 DUMERIL'S BOA (GRAYSON)
1.0 ALBINO HONDURAN (RIVER)
0.1 TANGERINE HONDURAN (FAITH)
1.0 ALBINO TESSERA CORN SNAKE (RILEY)
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Re: A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
 Originally Posted by L.West
I have two bp's (one male and one female) both just over 1,600 grams - what is the smallest tub I could offer.
My only smaller option is from a cb70 tub to a RBI Sweater box tub - would this work??
Also, does dropping the heat to 86 pose any risk of getting an RI.
Thanks.
If you don't have a small enclosure, then follow the recommendations of filling the tub with crushed newspaper. 86 degrees is not a dangerous temp. There are breeders that do cool their ball pythons before breeding and 84-86 are the typical temps they use.
Jim Smith
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I had put her in a 16qt tub. I don't have anything smaller to put her in. She's in the 32 now. I'll try the paper trick and see if that works.
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Re: A recommendation for feeding a non-feeding ball python - Should I do it?
 Originally Posted by FatBoy
I agree with Jim...no male. Has anyone ever told you about the paper trick? Ball up newspaper in loose balls and completely fill her tub. Give her about a week with the paper and offer her a live weaned rat. Leave it in with her for a couple hours with the paper still in. Weaned rats are pretty much harmless when it comes to attacking a snake. Leave the paper in for a few months. This adds security. This has been a very sucessful trick for a lot of problem feeders.
This has never failed me.
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