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  1. #31
    BPnet Veteran LotsaBalls's Avatar
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    How old do they need to be to sex them? When are they ready to go to new homes?
    Over 60...

  2. #32
    BPnet Veteran TrpnBils's Avatar
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    They're generally able to be sexed at 1 year old and 100g in weight (for reference, they're averaging 13g at hatch time).

    They're known for being problem feeders for the first few meals, so we'll get all that stuff out of the way and we're hoping to get 10 meals or so into them by the time we let them go. We can start feeding trials as soon as they shed for the first time, and they should be ready to go by late March or early April.

    If you're interested, PM me and we can talk!

  3. #33
    BPnet Veteran bioteacher's Avatar
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    Re: Hatchlings making their debut

    Congrats on the newborns! Some really great photos and great variation in color! You should post some photos of the adults that produced these stunning neonates
    Last edited by bioteacher; 01-12-2011 at 11:12 AM.

  4. #34
    BPnet Veteran TrpnBils's Avatar
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    Re: Hatchlings making their debut

    Quote Originally Posted by bioteacher View Post
    Congrats on the newborns! Some really great photos and great variation in color! You should post some photos of the adults that produced these stunning neonates
    Thanks! I'll get some up later on when I get home.

    On a side note, the last yellow one (the one we thought was dead in the egg) finally emerged 2 days after the rest, and it bit me twice while I was weighing it and moving it to its new tub, so apparently it's in good shape!

  5. #35
    BPnet Veteran DemmBalls's Avatar
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    Re: Hatchlings making their debut

    Quote Originally Posted by TrpnBils View Post
    We're in Erie - we could work out a deal for delivering one to Ohio rather than paying for shipping charges
    Can you pm me the rates for them? By the time they are ready, I may be ready for one!

    Thanks!
    -Jordan

    Balls
    0.1 Pinstripe.............................1.0 DH Lavender Snow
    0.2 PH Lavender Albino.............0.1 Bumblebee
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    0.1 Het TSK Axanthic................1.3 Mojave
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    Check us out at: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Dem...13090085417762

  6. #36
    BPnet Veteran TrpnBils's Avatar
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    Re: Hatchlings making their debut

    PM sent

  7. #37
    BPnet Veteran frenchy's Avatar
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    So if I get two I would just be hoping for a male and female??????? Well I am a gambling man sound like fun
    Last edited by frenchy; 01-12-2011 at 02:04 PM.

  8. #38
    BPnet Veteran TrpnBils's Avatar
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    Re: Hatchlings making their debut

    Quote Originally Posted by frenchy View Post
    So if I get two I would just be hoping for a male and female??????? Well I am a gambling man sound like fun
    Yep - won't be able to sex them for awhile yet. If in a year you have them sexed and they don't end up being what you want, you could always contact somebody at a show maybe and see about doing a trade.

    And hey this could work out in your favor if you're looking to breed in the future...once they're sexed, that generally skews the prices by making the females more expensive. If you end up getting two females, all you have to do is drop a little extra money on a male and you can pair him up with both the females. It beats getting two males anyway!

  9. #39
    BPnet Veteran frenchy's Avatar
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    Re: Hatchlings making their debut

    I was thinking the same thing like I said gambling man here so ya im doing alot of research as you suggested what kind of caging size do you suggest

  10. #40
    BPnet Veteran TrpnBils's Avatar
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    We house ours in tubs for the first year or two, gradually increasing the size as they grow. Right now they're housed in 6qt tubs with lots of perches, but they can be moved into something larger after a few months.

    They're like any other snake in that if the cage/tub is too big, they'll fail to become strong feeders due to stress. The container should be tall enough so that the perch is off the ground at a height that allows the snake to coil a meal up underneath it without hitting the ground (this sometimes makes them drop their meal). Be careful though about not making it too high so that the snake can't get down to the ground and back up!

    As adults, 2x2x2 foot cage is good, but larger is better if you can manage. They'll usually use the highest available perch regardless of temp, so a horizontal heat gradient is better than a vertical one. We use back heat on our tubs since they're off the ground anyway, but a radiant heat panel is more appropriate for an adult-sized cage as it can safely be put inside the cage with the snake (unlike flexwatt, a UTH, or light bulb).

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