Vet appointment made.

[Lupe]

It's not until the 4th of Jan. but I just lost my job (was just seasonal) and I can't pick up my last pay check until the 31st. Taking my 2 new normals in for RI. I know the larger one has it and since the smaller one is still with her I am having him checked out too (s/he will be separated soon, I need another thermostat/rheostat).

In the mean time how can I help my balls the most? I have the temps at 93*-94* but what should the humidity be? I know low but how low?
I'm cleaning their water bowl every day with Natural Chemistry's
Reptile Healthy Habitat (organic cleaner) and cleaning the sides and spot cleaning. (I rinse out the bowl thoroughly)

[mpkeelee]

keep belly heat up and keep ambient temps up around 82-85. normal humidity around 60% is ok, but once a day give them a nice steam for about an hour. it will help break up all the nasties in there.

[PitOnTheProwl]

I am not much help, but good luck

[RichsBallPythons]

keep setup WARM. 93-95 hot side and 83-85 Cool side with 60-80% Humidity.

[kitedemon]

Most of the treatments reqire meds from the vet. I know Brian of BHB posted this video a while ago I have never seen this exact treatment myself but is something that may help.


http://snakebytes.tv/index.php?optio...=238&Itemid=14

[RichsBallPythons]

The nebulization only stops the RI from advancing enough to get the snake to vet. DOES NOT CURE IT 100%.

[kitedemon]

Thanks Rich I have never had any animal with RI. I have no direct experience with it myself, I just saw it and thought it might help until the vet appointemnt. I just thought it in passing.

[don15681]

hopefully the smaller one is ok. healthy snakes usually don't get a R.I. from another snake. but from conditions or stress that lowers their resistance to bacteria that's already present. You do need to separate them cause being in the same enclosure is putting stress on them. most vets like to treat a R.I. with meds thats injected into the snake. and it's a series of shots. so if you can't do this, take someone with you that can. the vet will show you how it's done.

like rich said keep temps and the humidity where he stated, also don't feed. a sick snake thats stressed has a higher chance to regurge it's food.

[Lupe]

The vet appointment is scheduled and I'm definitely going to take both.

Got a rheostat for the time being so I can get the 2 separated finally. They have been together for an unknown amount of time (since before I got them a little over 3 weeks ago) and I have hear both whistle and pop when breathing but the bigger one didn't eat this last feeding (took her rat the first week fine, second week I had to leave it under her warm hide over night, tried it again but it was still there this morning when I got home from work) and she has started resting her head at a 90* angle on the water bowl :[
Smaller one is still eager to eat but I want to make sure (s)he isn't sick as well.
Well I know what most, if not all, of my last pay check is going to I'd rather it be to get my pets better that splurging it on myself.

Now I just need to wait for the UTH to heat up and get stabilized so I can move the little guy to his/her own tank.

[Lupe]

and I read to keep the humidity low? I believe it was said that the lower humidity keeps fluid from building up. But on another note I haven't seen bubbles or mucus. I need to get her mouth open though, what is a quick and easy way to do that?