Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 772

2 members and 770 guests
Most users ever online was 9,191, 03-09-2025 at 12:17 PM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 75,876
Threads: 249,071
Posts: 2,571,983
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, TreySongz
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14
  1. #1
    Registered User Deborah01's Avatar
    Join Date
    12-14-2010
    Location
    Holland
    Posts
    13
    Thanks
    3
    Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts

    Little advice please.

    As the proud new owner of a ball python and hooked already cant wait for my next one could anyone advise me on whether its better to feed live or just defrosted. I bought her from a registered breeder but he gave us conflicting advice on feeds in one breath he said live but then said maybe its better to feed her defrosted although he had been feeding her live!!!!!!!!!! just a little confused dont want to do anything that could stop her feeding or jeoperdise her health. I know its mainly down to what the snake prefers but just a little confused.
    Any advice or tips would be very much appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    BPnet Veteran sookieball's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-03-2010
    Location
    Baldwin Park, California, United States
    Posts
    2,333
    Thanks
    863
    Thanked 416 Times in 388 Posts
    well how old is this bP?

    most hatchlings wont eat prekilled or f/t.
    but its not hard to get them to switch to f/t.
    it just takes tuff love.

    but its been my experience, my hatchlings wont eat PK or F/T .
    but will make the switch to PK. easier than F/T.

    like i said thats what i have experienced.

    no harm in live mouse feedings. rats are more feirce than mice, so the risks are slightly lower


    hope this helps your decision.
    Last edited by sookieball; 12-16-2010 at 04:27 AM.
    0.1 Normal (Sookie)
    1.0 Pastel (Syler)
    0.1 BumbleBee (Scully)
    1.0 Butter (Gimme)
    0.1 Mojave (Saffy)
    1.0 Albino (Leopold)
    1.0 Pinstripe (Triston)
    1.0 Basset/Beagle Mix (Bilbo)
    0.1 Basset Hound (Mimi)
    a bunch of red eared sliders
    and the oldest, male pit/mix Corky. 18yrs strong.

  3. #3
    Registered User Deborah01's Avatar
    Join Date
    12-14-2010
    Location
    Holland
    Posts
    13
    Thanks
    3
    Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts

    age

    10 month hatched in febuary this year
    Ok thanks for that will feed her live and see what she prefers.
    Last edited by Deborah01; 12-16-2010 at 04:27 AM.

  4. #4
    BPnet Veteran sookieball's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-03-2010
    Location
    Baldwin Park, California, United States
    Posts
    2,333
    Thanks
    863
    Thanked 416 Times in 388 Posts
    oh than she should be a little over 250-400 grams?
    0.1 Normal (Sookie)
    1.0 Pastel (Syler)
    0.1 BumbleBee (Scully)
    1.0 Butter (Gimme)
    0.1 Mojave (Saffy)
    1.0 Albino (Leopold)
    1.0 Pinstripe (Triston)
    1.0 Basset/Beagle Mix (Bilbo)
    0.1 Basset Hound (Mimi)
    a bunch of red eared sliders
    and the oldest, male pit/mix Corky. 18yrs strong.

  5. #5
    BPnet Veteran sookieball's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-03-2010
    Location
    Baldwin Park, California, United States
    Posts
    2,333
    Thanks
    863
    Thanked 416 Times in 388 Posts

    Re: age

    Quote Originally Posted by Deborah01 View Post
    10 month hatched in febuary this year
    Ok thanks for that will feed her live and see what she prefers.
    well wait! try pre killed first and if she doesn't strike than try live.
    the sooner you get her on PK the better and less worry.

    most on here will tell you, live is more of a last resort.
    0.1 Normal (Sookie)
    1.0 Pastel (Syler)
    0.1 BumbleBee (Scully)
    1.0 Butter (Gimme)
    0.1 Mojave (Saffy)
    1.0 Albino (Leopold)
    1.0 Pinstripe (Triston)
    1.0 Basset/Beagle Mix (Bilbo)
    0.1 Basset Hound (Mimi)
    a bunch of red eared sliders
    and the oldest, male pit/mix Corky. 18yrs strong.

  6. #6
    BPnet Veteran mommanessy247's Avatar
    Join Date
    04-06-2010
    Location
    sc
    Posts
    1,842
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 206 Times in 189 Posts
    Images: 13

    Re: Little advice please.

    well, i've got a 6 month old on live right now but i will be switching to f/t for financial & safety reasons.
    i wasn't able to let my girl's breeder switch her to f/t because we werent able to get set up for it (purchasing a seperate, mini freezer for the frozen rats as well as the rats themselves.)
    as far as finances go, this is the math i came up with...

    what i currently spend on rats, bedding & food p/ month - $40
    that x's 6 for a 6 month time frame = $240

    1 20-25 ct pck of f/t rats = $60 (s&h included)

    but that 1 pck will last approximately 6 months so i'll only be spending $60 in 6 months to feed my snake rather then the $240 buying live rats and supplying their bedding and food.

    i've always known that feeding p/k or f/t is safer in the long run and it was never my intention to keep my snake on live forever but i would rather take away any potential risks for injury when i feed my girl then have to deal with the potential for a big vet bill when the problem can be avoided in the 1st place.

    granted, in the wild these snakes eat live food and they deal with injuries and go on living. it's just a fact of life. something must die for something else to live. it's just the way it works.
    i'm not completely heartless though. i do not like putting a defenseless animal to its death every time i feed the snake and i will be resolving that issue soon.
    whatever situation works best for you, go with it.
    good luck.

    my current collection
    1.2 kiddos
    1.0 better half
    0.1 mojave ball python (Nyx)
    0.1 Dumerils Boa (Hemera)
    1.0 Eastern Box turtle
    3.4.? rats (? = litter coming any day now)
    0.1 dutch rabbit (Lucy)

    my "future hopefuls"
    0.0.1 pied cockatiel 0.0.1 white bellied caique 0.0.2 guinea pigs

  7. #7
    Registered User Deborah01's Avatar
    Join Date
    12-14-2010
    Location
    Holland
    Posts
    13
    Thanks
    3
    Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts

    Re: Little advice please.

    Quote Originally Posted by sookieball View Post
    oh than she should be a little over 250-400 grams?
    Just weighed her this morning and she is 375 grams. gonna leave her for now although she looks to be hunting and sitting in the strike position all the time will try her again on saturday but will keep a really close eye on her.

  8. #8
    BPnet Lifer Vypyrz's Avatar
    Join Date
    04-13-2009
    Location
    Morehead City, North Carolina
    Posts
    5,528
    Thanks
    554
    Thanked 1,800 Times in 1,267 Posts
    Images: 38

    Re: Little advice please.

    Hello, and to BP.net...
    Since the breeder that you got her from was feeding live, I would suggest that you continue feeding live for the next 5-8 weeks to get her established for you. Then, if you decided that you want to try frozen/thawed, you can start the process. You just want to make sure that she is feeding consistently for you first. Some snakes will switch over the very first time, with no problems, some will need some work, some just refuse to switch. I would also suggest that if your snake eats mice and you want to switch to rats, etc, do it before going F/T. Only make one switch at a time, which will give you a better chance of success...
    "Cry, Havoc! And let slip the dogs of war..."

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Vypyrz For This Useful Post:

    Deborah01 (12-17-2010)

  10. #9
    Banned
    Join Date
    12-18-2009
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    1,002
    Thanks
    100
    Thanked 122 Times in 114 Posts

    Re: age

    Quote Originally Posted by sookieball View Post
    most on here will tell you, live is more of a last resort.
    What? I don't see feeding live as a "last resort", I see as my first as do alot of other people. Feeding f/t is alittle bit safer, yes, but I wouldn't go as far as "last resort".

    As for cost look for local people. I have to drive 25 min to get my rats a week but I pay 10 dollars for all my snakes food (10 of them) the blues get 2 meals each (smaller prey) and the burm takes a jumbo rat so I can getting them pretty cheap.

    Quote Originally Posted by Deborah01 View Post
    Just weighed her this morning and she is 375 grams. gonna leave her for now although she looks to be hunting and sitting in the strike position all the time will try her again on saturday but will keep a really close eye on her.
    And that is a tiny little thing. Get that snake some food. If it won't take rats give it 2-3 mice, depending on size of mouse.
    Last edited by MitsuMike; 12-16-2010 at 09:29 AM.

  11. #10
    Steel Magnolia rabernet's Avatar
    Join Date
    07-12-2005
    Location
    In the Nest
    Posts
    29,196
    Thanks
    2,845
    Thanked 5,584 Times in 3,092 Posts
    Blog Entries
    2
    Images: 46

    Re: age

    Quote Originally Posted by sookieball View Post
    well wait! try pre killed first and if she doesn't strike than try live.
    the sooner you get her on PK the better and less worry.

    most on here will tell you, live is more of a last resort.
    Actually, most on here will tell you to feed what works BEST for you and your snake.

    I feed live almost exclusively to my ball pythons. I've no desire to switch to pre-killed or f/t. None.

    The risks of injury from feeding live responsibly (without stunning - I don't do that) are exponentially small.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1