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Thread: problems

  1. #11
    BPnet Veteran Zedd's Avatar
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    if you have scale, weigh her. she should be eating 10-15% her body weight. You can get a scale at wal-mart or target for pretty cheap. Also, use the gram setting on the scale.
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    BPnet Veteran Alexandra V's Avatar
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    Re: problems

    You're going to want to start her on rats because it will be more cost-effective when she's older - you'll only have to buy one appropriately sized rat instead of multiple mice. The younger you switch them the better, because they'll tend to get hooked on mice if they stay on them too long.
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  3. #13
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    They also grow faster on rats. You don't absolutely have to switch, but at least try feeding 1-2 adult mice instead of hoppers. I start my hatchlings on hoppers for the first feeding, maybe two, then they get adult mice or rat fuzzies/pups.

  4. #14
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    HOPPERS? No freakin' way. The poor thing must be starving, you definitely need to start feeding it bigger prey items. and why hate on rats? Mice are much more disgusting IMO. Raise a colony of mice and rats and you will see the big difference.

  5. #15
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    IMO rats are less nippy than mice too. I have 3 breeding racks of rats, I don't handle them much, and I can still pick up and hold any one I want with no issues. They're actually pretty friendly...

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    BPnet Senior Member anatess's Avatar
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    I would think you'd want to feed off the one you hate the most?
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  7. #17
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    Re: problems

    Quote Originally Posted by anatess View Post
    I would think you'd want to feed off the one you hate the most?
    That's why rats from feeder breeders are the best pets, lol. Seriously, though, I've eliminated biting rats by feeding off any rat that bites me...now I have a bunch of really docile rats. It seems like temperament is either inherited or learned, so culling the aggressive ones solves the problem. I never handle my rats except for cleaning, ect. but I can pick any one up and carry it around for as long as I want w/out any worries.

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