Alright...you'll want to make some changes to have an ideal ball python habitat. Most of them are very inexpensive. The only really pricey one is a thermostat.

The little stick-on dial thermometers you have are virtually useless. Besides being notoriously inaccurate, they simply can't tell you what temperatures your snake is actually experiencing down there on the floor of the cage...over the heat mat...or inside the hide.

You can get a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer/hygrometer for less than $15 from Walmart or any of the big hardware stores. It comes with a long corded probe. You put that probe under the warm-side hide....and then set the unit on the floor of the cage in a cool corner...and that will give you a much better read on your overall temps and humidity.

Next...the open-sided log hides are not ideal for ball pythons. These are snakes that in the wild will live in tight little rodent burrows or termite mounds. They want things dark and tight around them. You don't have to buy expensive hides from the pet store...you can use clean, plastic bowls with a little doorway cut out...plastic flower-pot bottoms can be found very cheap at walmart or hardware stores. Just cut away a little entrance. (I highly recommend a "cave door" sort of entrance, rather than a hole...because if the snake is half-in and half-out that hole, it can be very hard to get them out! LOL Much easier to just lift the whole thing off)

You also should ideally have one hide over the heat mat and one on the cool side. That way your snake can feel secure even if he doesn't feel like being warmer.

Lastly, you really do need a thermostat to control the heat mat. But barring that, you can get a dimmer switch made for table lamps at the hardware store for under $10. Hook that up and monitor your temps closely. If your room temps stay steady, a dimmer switch can work fairly well...but if the temps fluctuate a lot, you'll have to work with it a lot more.

I recommend neosporin antibiotic...just check the label and make sure it doesn't have pain killer mixed in with it. You can rub it on yourself with clean hands...it won't hurt the snake. I'd recommend 2-3 times per day until the wound closes up. Depending on the nature of the wound, it may actually open up again during the next shed or two because shedding can sometimes tear scabs away.

I wouldn't mess with the possible scale rot at this time...it looks mild enough to take care of itself, so long as the environment is correct.