assist feed?

[jason_ladouceur]

We have a new little pin stripe that refuses to eat. I have now had to assist feed him twice. I let him settle in for a week then tried to feed him and he seems to have no feeding response. The breeder we got him from said he was eating on live mice hoppers (groan). But any prey item I’ve offered him (live hoppers off of tongs and dropped in the cage, live rat pinks off of tongs and dropped in the cage and f/t mice hoppers heated in boiling water) all result in the same response, he just hisses and balls up. This animal shows no sign of stress he freely explores his cage and doesn’t even hide or ball up when I have to go into his cage to clean it. Normally I wouldn’t assist feed any snake let alone a ball after only a few weeks in the house but this one is so small and thin that I’m concerned that he might starve he doesn’t get some food in him. I know that the setup is O.K because there are 2 other animals in the same rack that came from the same breeder at the same time that have both voluntarily taken 2 meals. So my question is this how often in your experience can you assist feed a small BP before the stress of the procedure does more harm than it gains from the nutrition it receives? Although as you can imagine it is quite resistant to having a prey item into its mouth if I get the prey into its throat just a little bit it voluntary swallows without any further help and bye the next day is back cruzing it’s cage with no visible signs of stress. Any input would be helpful and appreciated I haven’t had to assist feed any baby’s since I had some baby atheris born years ago and really don’t like to put a snake through it unless I think it is absolutely necessary.
Jason

[dr del]

Hi,

How long have you had it in total?

I ask because we normally see cruising as an indicator of stress. Out for a couple of hours at dusk night or dawn is one thing but constant cruising is nearly always a stressed BP.

I know the others in the rack are fine but could you run us through the setup anyway?

It's also possible he is simply more nervous than the others and might need some extra security before he feels comfortable enough to eat.


dr del

[steveboos]

Yeah he could just be very stressed. I would offer him the smallest hide you can, try and keep the room as dark as possible and hopefully he will eat a freshly killed mouse left in his tub for about 30 minutes. This works for most snakes who are afraid of food.

[jason_ladouceur]

Hi,

How long have you had it in total?
about 3 weeks

I ask because we normally see cruising as an indicator of stress. Out for a couple of hours at dusk night or dawn is one thing but constant cruising is nearly always a stressed BP.
cruising dusk(5pm till 8pm) and dawn(5am till i don't know i leave for work at 5:30) a little bit in the afternoon according to the wife but otherwise setteled in qutie nicely

I know the others in the rack are fine but could you run us through the setup anyway?
90 hot spot, 83 ambient

It's also possible he is simply more nervous than the others and might need some extra security before he feels comfortable enough to eat.
offered a small hide, he used it tsit on top off


dr del

[jason_ladouceur]

Yeah he could just be very stressed. I would offer him the smallest hide you can, try and keep the room as dark as possible and hopefully he will eat a freshly killed mouse left in his tub for about 30 minutes. This works for most snakes who are afraid of food.

we tried leaving fesh killed as well as live rat pinks in over night but with no luck,

[don15681]

the reason most likely it's not feeding is the size of the tub you have him in. (too big) I would try what steveboos posted with the hide. he's active in his tub cause he's stressed by the size of it. if you placed the rodent a little in the throat and he's getting a feeding response for having something in the mouth and takes it the rest of the way by himself that's good. lower the stress for him (with a hide) and he should go by himself soon. you might want to junk up the tub so it doesn't feel so big, and once he eats, start taking things out slowly. if he doesn't feed by himself in 2 weeks, PM me and I'll give you something else to try that usually works well, and I'll explain why it works. good luck, don

[jason_ladouceur]

the reason most likely it's not feeding is the size of the tub you have him in. (too big) I would try what steveboos posted with the hide. he's active in his tub cause he's stressed by the size of it. if you placed the rodent a little in the throat and he's getting a feeding response for having something in the mouth and takes it the rest of the way by himself that's good. lower the stress for him (with a hide) and he should go by himself soon. you might want to junk up the tub so it doesn't feel so big, and once he eats, start taking things out slowly. if he doesn't feed by himself in 2 weeks, PM me and I'll give you something else to try that usually works well, and I'll explain why it works. good luck, don

thanks for the advice. i'm not sure how much smaller a tub i can put him in though. i purposly put all three in small tubs (8x8x4) to make sure they felt secure and i'm already worried that the 3" heat tape may be heating to much of the floor space.
thanks jason

[don15681]

that tub could be too small. you would still think with it being smaller he would still eat. the reason why I think it could be too small is: I had a pastave in the 6 qt tub. he was fine at first, but when he grew some the mouse was always too close to him and stress him. as soon as I placed him in something a little larger he ate the first day. so the live feeding might be a little close for his comfort. some times they need to watch the rodent move around to get the feeding response to kick in. and a f/t rodent might not work cause he needs the movement. sometimes the mouse dance of a f/t doesn't work. when getting a hatchling, you always want to try and keep things the same as how the breeder had it setup. can you get into contact with the breeder? if you can, ask about how he had it setup, and also what he feed, how and when. if you can't contact him, I would place him in a 6 qt sterilite tub (wal-mart 97 cents) remember the air holes and set it up for heat water and ect.... leave him alone, let him settle in for a few days. no handling until he feeds a few times on his own. offer live hoppers (mice) and no noise or movement while trying to feed him. leave the rodent in for at least 1/2 hour. if he doesn't feed, try again in 3 days. I can't see him so it's on you with his health from not feeding. if this doesn't work or you think he's going to start going downhill from not feeding. PM me, there's another option if you think you can't do this. don

[jason_ladouceur]

that tub could be too small. you would still think with it being smaller he would still eat. the reason why I think it could be too small is: I had a pastave in the 6 qt tub. he was fine at first, but when he grew some the mouse was always too close to him and stress him. as soon as I placed him in something a little larger he ate the first day. so the live feeding might be a little close for his comfort. some times they need to watch the rodent move around to get the feeding response to kick in. and a f/t rodent might not work cause he needs the movement. sometimes the mouse dance of a f/t doesn't work. when getting a hatchling, you always want to try and keep things the same as how the breeder had it setup. can you get into contact with the breeder? if you can, ask about how he had it setup, and also what he feed, how and when. if you can't contact him, I would place him in a 6 qt sterilite tub (wal-mart 97 cents) remember the air holes and set it up for heat water and ect.... leave him alone, let him settle in for a few days. no handling until he feeds a few times on his own. offer live hoppers (mice) and no noise or movement while trying to feed him. leave the rodent in for at least 1/2 hour. if he doesn't feed, try again in 3 days. I can't see him so it's on you with his health from not feeding. if this doesn't work or you think he's going to start going downhill from not feeding. PM me, there's another option if you think you can't do this. don

this is excatly what i was thinking. i am going to get some 6 qt tubs, build a deeper rack and move all 3 of new guys this week. hopefully having a little more space for the mouse to roam without climbing on him will work.

[jason_ladouceur]

Well I moved the little pin head into a 6qt bin let him settle in and offered him a live hopper last Saturday, and after about 20 minutes of thinking about it he killed and swallowed it hurray. Then again on Thursday he took another one this time almost right away. So it’s looks like he’s on his way. Thanks everyone for your help. Now if I can just get him feeding of tongs and switched over to rats everything will be perfect. He is imo a real stunner so I’m really relieved that he looks like he’s going to make it.
Jason
:gj: