Too hot in the garage... ne suggestions?

[ice#1]

that aint that bad mine is in same shape but my temps were getting into 110.f to 120.f mid day i put a window unit in and with a good timer mine now stays about 76.mid day down to as low as 55 at night (night time temps been kind of low recently)

but cooler it gets at night in there the longer it takes to warm it up. as long as you got a timer set to run at least 1/2 hour every hour. i run mine 15 minutes on then 15 minutes off. but i don't have to worry about sun on roof after noon as big shade tree covers it from noon till late in the day.

my old garage and carport was recently redid so it is almost fully insulated. got to put a drop ceiling in and insulate the old carport section then fully insulated. (i used blow in insulation and used twice as much as what was recommended for standard installation so is about a r-64 value

[SlitherinSisters]

I agree, at the very least buy the apartment/room air conditioner. We were going to buy one for our apartment, all you need is a plug in and a place to drain the water if you don't want to dump the bucket all the time. You can't expect to have good production or live rats in that sort of temperature with no ventilation or cooling system. I think the AC would be worth it.

Here is a small one. You're not going to get the room down to 70 with a small AC, but it will sure help!!! This one is $300
http://www.homedepot.com/Appliances-...atalogId=10053

[suzuki4life]

I agree, at the very least buy the apartment/room air conditioner. We were going to buy one for our apartment, all you need is a plug in and a place to drain the water if you don't want to dump the bucket all the time. You can't expect to have good production or live rats in that sort of temperature with no ventilation or cooling system. I think the AC would be worth it.

Here is a small one. You're not going to get the room down to 70 with a small AC, but it will sure help!!! This one is $300
http://www.homedepot.com/Appliances-...atalogId=10053

every portable I have ever seen needs to be vented somehow. Maybe technology has changed but the one we use in our attic uses a dryer style vent setup.

I use the older version of this one

http://www.walmart.com/ip/9-000-BTU-...ioner/10848160

[irishanaconda]

every portable I have ever seen needs to be vented somehow

yea thats sort of the problem because it does have a garage door but no windows, and i really dont want to smell up the neibhorhood. Is there any models without venting?

[suzuki4life]

yea thats sort of the problem because it does have a garage door but no windows, and i really dont want to smell up the neibhorhood. Is there any models without venting?

they need to exhaust the heat

basically they intake the heat on the one side and exhaust it on the other.

[tomfromtheshade]

If your concern is smelling up the neighborhood you could always filter the exhaust. There are plenty of ways to do that, but you might find the best advice on another type of forum LOL. I don't remember what the rules are here, but there are forums out there for people who grow plants in doors that need to vent heat without certain odors escaping through their exhaust system. You could probably apply the same technology.

[771subliminal]

they need to exhaust the heat

basically they intake the heat on the one side and exhaust it on the other.

not if you get a swamp cooler it uses water to cool and recycle the air no exhaust needed

this is a small one but its the idea
http://www.air-n-water.com/product/ka70.htm

[PiedPeddler]

not if you get a swamp cooler it uses water to cool and recycle the air no exhaust needed

this is a small one but its the idea
http://www.air-n-water.com/product/ka70.htm

The evaporative cooler, AKA swamp cooler cools through the evaporation of water. They work great here in Arizona by sucking in dry air from outside, running it through wet pads where the evaporation cools the air and then into the building. This pressurizes the interior slightly and it is exhausted passively through bathroom vents, stove vents, and poorly sealed windows and doors, or actively through an open window or specially constructed barometric dampers. They can also be used outdoors to blow cool air directly on you. If you put one in an enclosed, unventilated area it becomes a humidifier. You might have a cooling effect for about 30 minutes or so while it is steadily increasing the humidity of that environment, but the air inside will quickly reach a saturation point at which time the swamp cooler no longer cools and the building will begin warming up again to the ambient temperature imposed by the environment, except now with nearly 100% humidity. It is a nice, lower cost suggestion however it is not quite the right thing for this application. As for cooling the air with a portable refrigeration unit, I have seen them with dual ducts or a split single duct where they suck in outside air to cool the condenser coils then blow the very hot air back outside again. It is actually more efficient because in order for a unit to exhaust the air, it has to pull it from somewhere. And without a dedicated intake duct, you are pulling hot outside air into the space you are trying to cool. Just shop around for a portable that has that feature. BTW, window A/C units cool and recirculate the inside air, the condenser fan and coils are outside where they belong, and the better units can heat in the winter, too.
- Paul

[771subliminal]

The evaporative cooler, AKA swamp cooler cools through the evaporation of water. They work great here in Arizona by sucking in dry air from outside, running it through wet pads where the evaporation cools the air and then into the building. This pressurizes the interior slightly and it is exhausted passively through bathroom vents, stove vents, and poorly sealed windows and doors, or actively through an open window or specially constructed barometric dampers. They can also be used outdoors to blow cool air directly on you. If you put one in an enclosed, unventilated area it becomes a humidifier. You might have a cooling effect for about 30 minutes or so while it is steadily increasing the humidity of that environment, but the air inside will quickly reach a saturation point at which time the swamp cooler no longer cools and the building will begin warming up again to the ambient temperature imposed by the environment, except now with nearly 100% humidity. It is a nice, lower cost suggestion however it is not quite the right thing for this application. As for cooling the air with a portable refrigeration unit, I have seen them with dual ducts or a split single duct where they suck in outside air to cool the condenser coils then blow the very hot air back outside again. It is actually more efficient because in order for a unit to exhaust the air, it has to pull it from somewhere. And without a dedicated intake duct, you are pulling hot outside air into the space you are trying to cool. Just shop around for a portable that has that feature. BTW, window A/C units cool and recirculate the inside air, the condenser fan and coils are outside where they belong, and the better units can heat in the winter, too.
- Paul

this would be how a vented one would work. if it doesnt have a vent (intake or exhaust) how would of pull in air from the outside and pressurize the room? the model type i posted a link to is pretty much a fan that cools the air.

[ChuckSM]

I live in Sonoita , AZ and keep mine in a green house. Now my Beardie loves the haet but of course I have windows and breezes in there , and the temps dont get that bad but..

Regardless I am thinking of bringing the snakes inside in tubs.

If you have the room with no AC blowing in the area, you might try that.