Robin is absolutely right. I also start my babies on ASF's because they are the right size and they move more to stimulate the feeding response. I too have fed off over flow ASF's to adult BPs and have never had a problem with them continuing to accept their F/T rats as well. I believe its possible that a snake can get stuck on ASF's but its not very likely unless you have that one BP that just doesn't want to eat anything. In fact, I have a sub-adult BP that would only eat ASF's and nothing else for 2 years. I purchased her knowing this. Now she will take small rats from me but they have to be similarly colored like the ASF's.
Feeding live ASF's is no different than feeding any other rodent. They do not attack, chew and bite the BP like other rodents will but they can and so should never be left un-attended. BUT, you need to learn exactly how to raise them to avoid the murder massacre's that happen with these guys at the slightest mistake. 1 day without water. They kill and eat each other. No food? Same thing. Too many females? None will produce. Leave a sexually mature male in there? More killing. Colony didn't grow up together? KILL! SO many rules with these guys. Plus they produce like mad and even with a small 1.2 colony, you would be over run in a few months.
If you ever plan to not feed ASF's at any point in the future than just switch to live rats now. Honestly, there are ways and tricks to get you BP to take F/T. A couple of which no one ever tries.
1. Tough love. Do not feed the BP for at least 2 weeks. If it only eats every 2 weeks due to being picky then wait 3 weeks. This will not harm a BP as long as it is not a fresh hatchling. Hunger is the driving force.
2. Start small. Choose rats that are just weenlings. Much like the size of a mouse. Thaw it completely and warm it very well. NO boiling water & NO microwave. Hot tap water or a heat mat or place it on flexwatt and flip it after a little while. Hold it up to a hot light bulb or heat lamp, etc..
3. Heat signature and smell. The MOST important things to any snake. A very picky snake may not like the odd smell a hair dryer adds to the rat. So try very hot water from the faucet instead. Rat in freezerbag in hot water for 15 minutes. If smell is not strong or enticing enough, ask the pet store for a small baggie of dirty mouse/rat bedding. Put the open bag near the BP enclosure for a couple hours to pre scent the room. If it smells food nearby it may get into feeding mode.
4. BPs love wet rats! Why? I have no idea but for many a wet rat is a winning last resort. Dunk the now thawed and warm rat in warm water and dab off the excess on a paper towel.
5. Offer with long feeding tongs, at night when the sun is down, in a dimly lit room. Do the "zombie dance". Make the rat move just a little. Not too close to the snakes face and not very jerky movements. This can freak the snake out and turn him off food.
Also. Though ASF's are usually very still and do not react to the snake you must still stay there and watch til it is killed. Its also best if using a tub to have the lid on. They will jump out of the tub in a split second and take off. Ive had this happen. They will also bite a snake if left alone. I have also has this happen once. I left it alone for 10 minutes and it had given a couple little test bites to the snake. Luckily it only left a couple little red marks but no actual bites or damage. SO even if you feed hundreds and they never showed any aggression to the snake, never trust them.









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