Ceramic Heathers?

[DarkSmoke]

lol that typo again.
any way , more answers to my question anyone? :/

[DarkSmoke]

hmm seems like no one has got answers. just to say it again for those who didn't understand. This is not the ceramic heater petshops sell that are like bulbs, but a ceramic plate wich throws heat from underneat.

and what i asked for since someone here told me balls can't have a cool side of 69-71F like i have, is to put one of these and heat the whole vivarium to a tempreture without a tempreture gradient but of course put the tempreture on less then the usual like the guy that sold me mice do.

[angllady2]

Let me see if I can picture this for you.

This person uses a large ceramic plate which sits under the tank/tub/viv, therefore, the whole enclosure is the same temperature all the time, correct?

He says he keeps all of his various species of snakes with this kind of setup, and that is why you came here to see what we thought of the method, I am right?

I know that different species all have different needs, and there is nothing to say he can't successfully keep his ball pythons with this method for quite some time.

The real question becomes, how long has he used this method, and can he say with certainty it is not harmful in the long term. I don't mean 2 years or 4, or even 10 years. If balls can live 20 - 30 years if properly cared for, has he kept them using this method long enough to be sure it doesn't shorten the lifespan, or cause health problems after so many years?

I have been to many, many ball python breeders websites, and every single one of them recommends that a ball be provided with a warm side and cool side for health reasons. Since many of these people have had balls since they were first imported into the US, I'd believe them over the opinion of one person.


Or, if you choose to use the ceramic plate he is suggesting, could you set it at the proper temperature for the hot side, and perhaps use something heat resistant under the cool side to block some of the heat and still keep your gradient? That might be a workable option if you can find something suitably heat resistant, because the plate would be around 90-95 all the time, and you wouldn't want heat to damage what you are using, or worse. Perhaps something like what we call "pot holders" here. Pieces of special cloth material which you use to pick up a hot pan.

Just throwing some ideas out there for you.

Gale

[wolfy-hound]

Ball pythons do better with a heat gradient. I'm certain that he can keep HIS snakes with no heat gradient, because I've seen people keep ball pythons alive without heat, although how LONG they stay healthy is debatable.

If it's a ceramic pad that goes under the vivarium, vs a UTH(which is a heating pad that goes under the vivarium) I don't get the difference?

If you mean, does the snake REALLY need a cool side and a warm side, I would say yes, it does. You can still heat one end of the cage, but you'll still be using a thermostat to control the temps. How hot does the ceramic heat pad get? Hot enough to burn your snake?

If the heat is on one end of the cage, you should have a cooler side and a hotter side. Whether you can get the PROPER temps doing this with the set-up you are talking about is something we cannot tell you. We don't know what sort of vivarium, what sort of ceramic heatpad you're talking about, or what your natural ambient tempurtures are.

If you're just wanting someone here to go "Oh sure, do what that guy does, it's great!" you'll probably be out of luck. Generally the care of the pythons means trying to give them a temputure gradient, so they can move from warmer to cooler as needed.

[DarkSmoke]

Let me see if I can picture this for you.

This person uses a large ceramic plate which sits under the tank/tub/viv, therefore, the whole enclosure is the same temperature all the time, correct?

He says he keeps all of his various species of snakes with this kind of setup, and that is why you came here to see what we thought of the method, I am right?

I know that different species all have different needs, and there is nothing to say he can't successfully keep his ball pythons with this method for quite some time.

The real question becomes, how long has he used this method, and can he say with certainty it is not harmful in the long term. I don't mean 2 years or 4, or even 10 years. If balls can live 20 - 30 years if properly cared for, has he kept them using this method long enough to be sure it doesn't shorten the lifespan, or cause health problems after so many years?

I have been to many, many ball python breeders websites, and every single one of them recommends that a ball be provided with a warm side and cool side for health reasons. Since many of these people have had balls since they were first imported into the US, I'd believe them over the opinion of one person.


Or, if you choose to use the ceramic plate he is suggesting, could you set it at the proper temperature for the hot side, and perhaps use something heat resistant under the cool side to block some of the heat and still keep your gradient? That might be a workable option if you can find something suitably heat resistant, because the plate would be around 90-95 all the time, and you wouldn't want heat to damage what you are using, or worse. Perhaps something like what we call "pot holders" here. Pieces of special cloth material which you use to pick up a hot pan.

Just throwing some ideas out there for you.

Gale

Yes you understood me 100% correct. thanks for the helpfull info, i think i will still go with the UTH then. my only question remains, how much damage am i doing to the ball python since she has a cool side of 69-71F :/

[Spaniard]

Yes you understood me 100% correct. thanks for the helpfull info, i think i will still go with the UTH then. my only question remains, how much damage am i doing to the ball python since she has a cool side of 69-71F :/

Its like getting sick; your crazy friend Johnny can walk around in the cold with shorts on, never gets a cold and never gets sick. Your other friend Bob catches a cold if he's out for a minute without a coat on.

Typically those cool side temps can lead to problems with digestion of food which will lead to regurgitation. Those temps are also very prone to bringing about respiratory infections. Your snake could "survive" with those temps but how long and what complications along the way depend on the individual snake and its ability to tolerate temps outside the norm.

[DarkSmoke]

Well she looks strong and never gave any digestion problems , but of course i didnt own her for much time. im trying hard to get her the right temps but right now im way out of the money, since it will be an expense of 70euros. i hope she doesn't encounter any problems till then.

[Spaniard]

Well she looks strong and never gave any digestion problems , but of course i didnt own her for much time. im trying hard to get her the right temps but right now im way out of the money, since it will be an expense of 70euros. i hope she doesn't encounter any problems till then.

Try to get the temps corrected ASAP when money permits. Snakes can be sick for a very long time before they start to show signs outwardly that we can visually pick up on. Regurgitation is easy to spot but respiratory infections will not show symptoms until its well established in your snake. That will require vet visit + antibiotics; which is something you will want to avoid.

Hopefully you can correct the temp issue soon before you start to run into any problems.

[Wh00h0069]

Yes you understood me 100% correct. thanks for the helpfull info, i think i will still go with the UTH then. my only question remains, how much damage am i doing to the ball python since she has a cool side of 69-71F :/

None, as long as your hot side is the correct temp. Your ball will just not go to the cool side if it does not want to be cool. That's why a temp gradient is desired. They can move back and forth as needed. I have never used a ceramic heater, but I do use radiant heat panels. From what I understand, ceramic heaters do the same thing. They heat the ambient temp, as opposed to just heating a small spot on the bottom of the cage. Make sure that you use a thermostat though, because they can get very hot.

[joepythons]

No collection is complete without a CERAMIC HEATHER in it .