It's breeding time, not eating time

[muddoc]

That's correct, if we were talking about colubrids, which we're not. This is the correct way to cool down Ball Pythons. I didn't say she had to. We're not talking bout a true colubrid brumation, but it's what the owner can do if they want to. I've bred a lot of Ball Pythons and your telling me what to do. I've been doing this full time for over 15 years, then took a few years off and I'm now building my collection back up.

By your own admission you have said a five degree temp drop will not cause belly rot, so where is my information wrong. Since there's no chance of belly rot, why stop feed 3 weeks before you drop the temp? So, the owner doesn't have to worry about that. We're just trying to get the snake to slow down. So where have I led her wrong? It seems you got stuck on my use of the term brumation. Well, I may have used the wrong term, but what else do you call it, cool down? You don't have to do anything that I've said to get Ball Pythons to mate, but this is the way I've done it for years. It doesn't hurt the snake, it does calm the snake for a few months.

I have a question to ask you. If a snake goes off its food all winter long (like many Ball Pythons are prone to do), what is better for their metabolism (a slightly cooler enclosure (where they don't use as much energy) or regular temps (where their metabolism continues at regular levels)? Who's doing more harm?

You tell me!
Jim Smith

A. We are not talking about colubrids.
B. If you have been doing this for 15 years, I would have thought you had the terminology down by now.
C. I never stated anything about Belly Rot in my post. But when I brumate colubrids, as with everyone els I know that does it, they allow the animal to clear out the digestive system prior to cooling. I have heard of problems from people who haven't done that, but I have never heard of a problem from people that do.
D. My problem with the use of the term brumation in this post is that if a long time colubrid breeder read the post you just made, they may think that brumation is what is necessary for Ball Pythons. Brumation is typically more drastic than a 5 degree temp drop. As I stated, I brumate at a 15-20 degree temp drop, and I know people that cool there corn snakes as much as 40 degrees. Other species that brumate such as Diamond Pythons also need to be cooled to the 55 degree range (which would severely harm a Ball Python).
E. In regards to your last paragraph: haed you read the entire post, the original poster is not attempting to breed her snake. Matter of fact, it would be difficult to do with only one Ball Python. I personally would suggest exactly what I did, since Ball Pythons are known to fast during breeding months. If you want a snake that eats year around, then I would suggest a Boa or an Angolan Python.
F. Lastly, In the wild, who is dropping the temp on the thermostat to the termite mound. If you look at temps along the Ivory Coast, there is very little variation throughout the year. As well as the fact that they live in well insulated burrows that don't fluctuate much. If you are not attempting to breed a Ball Python, then there is no need to adjust temperatures. Matter of fact, I have barely touched temps at all this year while I am breeding.

I hope I answered all of your questions,