Help :(

[Immy]

I'm a little worried because Leopold isn't eating as much as he used to. I bought waxworms, mealworms more crickets and superworms. He likes the waxworms and mealworms, but he'd eat the crickets, too. He LOVED the crickets. But now he only ate 2 waxworms and a mealworm all day. The temps are good. I think he is stressed out. I can't feed him with all the 'furniture' in the tank because he just walks away from them or looks disinterested. So, sometimes I have to remove everything in the tank (except the calcium dish and water dish) so he can see them better and he becomes excited and pounces at them, flickering the tip of his tail and such. Is there an easier way to feed him? Can I remove him from the tank and put him somewhere else to dine and then put him back in when he is done? How can I get him to eat crickets again, too?

[Clementine_3]

What are his temps and what type of thermometer are you using?
I'd stop using wax worms, they are not are not a good staple feeder and should really only be used as treats, if at all. They are pretty much the equivalent of twinkies and I'm betting he is filling up on them and passing on the good stuff. You can leave mealies in a little bowl (glass ashtrays work great, .99 at Walmart!), just switch them out every day so they will always be gutloaded. I drop one super worm in at a time, that way I know if it got eaten or not. When I do feed crickets I do the same, but I actually hold the back leg so it can't run off and hide somewhere in the tank. I never just toss a bunch of feeders in and walk away. It takes a bit of time but I know who ate how much of what and know there aren't any escapees hiding out in the tanks.

Oh and, watch your fingers if you are holding the crickets, Leopold may miss and get you

[RichsBallPythons]

Also when going into shed they seem to refuse their food as well since they have the skin to eat soon. Just be sure cool side is 74-77 and 90 on warm side.

Keep a humid hide at all times and a small bowl of calcium in at all times. I also kept a small bowl of mealies at all times as well. Usually 15 mealies at a time s o iknow how much they ate.

[Immy]

Yeah, the temps are around 77-90. He did just go through a shed actually, so maybe that's why he isn't really eating. I'll feed him some crickets tomorrow evening and see If he'll eat them this time. Thanks you guys!

[Artistry Exotics]

All the furniture moving could be stressing him out and making him not want to eat as well.

Some geckos do alright being taken out and fed elsewhere, for others it's just too much stress. Leave him alone for a couple days and then offer him some food without moving stuff around in his tank.

I'll second what Clementine said about waxworms - no nutrition and geckos can get "addicted" to them and not want to eat healthy feeders.

Also, are you using a digital thermometer with a probe to read your temps? The little gauge thermometers are highly inaccurate and don't read surface temperature which is the most important for Leopard Geckos.

[coldblooded]

Yeah, the temps are around 77-90. He did just go through a shed actually, so maybe that's why he isn't really eating. I'll feed him some crickets tomorrow evening and see If he'll eat them this time. Thanks you guys!

You might want to bump your warm side up to around the mid 90s, IMO. There are many people, including myself, that have found that these slightly higher temperatures have encouraged better appetites and more activity.

Check out this place , too.

Good luck

[Immy]

My cool side is 70's and the hot side is 90's. I do use only UTH's and I'm thinking about investing in heat lamps instead, which I heard the light makes them healthier, brighter and more active. The thermometers that I use are Accu-rite that determines both humidity percentage and temperature. I'll leave him in there for a few days and see If he'll eat more. I'm just worried about the poor guy. I'll take pictures of the enclosure (and Leopold himself) tomorrow so you guys can tell me If I'm missing anything.

[coldblooded]

My cool side is 70's and the hot side is 90's. I do use only UTH's and I'm thinking about investing in heat lamps instead, which I heard the light makes them healthier, brighter and more active. The thermometers that I use are Accu-rite that determines both humidity percentage and temperature. I'll leave him in there for a few days and see If he'll eat more. I'm just worried about the poor guy. I'll take pictures of the enclosure (and Leopold himself) tomorrow so you guys can tell me If I'm missing anything.

UTH's are better than heat lamps. Does your thermometer have a probe? Make sure you're measuring ground temperatures. If it's the thermometer I'm thinking if then it doesn't have a probe.. if so, go to the petstore and get the ZooMed/Exoterra/ESU thermometor that has a probe attached to it. It's important.

Ambient air temperature is important too, to a degree (belly heat being the most important), especially if your house is drafty/cold. IF it's very cold you might need to add a heat lamp to use in conjunction with your UTH, at least until it warms up. Don't get a UVB bulb, though, their skin is pretty thin and they're not meant to absorb a lot of UVB since they are mainly crepuscular/nocturnal.

Good luck

[RichsBallPythons]

UTH's are better than heat lamps. Does your thermometer have a probe? Make sure you're measuring ground temperatures. If it's the thermometer I'm thinking if then it doesn't have a probe.. if so, go to the petstore and get the ZooMed/Exoterra/ESU thermometor that has a probe attached to it. It's important.

Ambient air temperature is important too, to a degree (belly heat being the most important), especially if your house is drafty/cold. IF it's very cold you might need to add a heat lamp to use in conjunction with your UTH, at least until it warms up. Don't get a UVB bulb, though, their skin is pretty thin and they're not meant to absorb a lot of UVB since they are mainly crepuscular/nocturnal.

Good luck

Your thinking of something else. Acurites are the best on the market. They measure cool side warm side and humidty all in one digital read out with probe.

[Immy]

Ambient air temperature is important too, to a degree (belly heat being the most important), especially if your house is drafty/cold. IF it's very cold you might need to add a heat lamp to use in conjunction with your UTH, at least until it warms up. Don't get a UVB bulb, though, their skin is pretty thin and they're not meant to absorb a lot of UVB since they are mainly crepuscular/nocturnal.

You think just having a red bulb on all day and night is ok?