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  1. #1
    Registered User Imabur.'s Avatar
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    Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    Hi,
    I've never owned a snake before, but I recently just purchased a Ball Python, he's still a baby but I just had a few questions that I was confused about. I'm sure these questions could be answered somewhere in here in one of these threads but I wasn't able to find it.

    First off, I've been trying to get the warm side of his tank to around the high 80s or so, I'm using a digital thermometer so I'm sure it's reading accurately but the warm side is only around 80-81. Is there an easy fix to this? I have a heat pad on the bottom of the tank as well.

    Lately he has seemed very aggressive, at first I was able to take him out of the tank easily, he didn't mind and when he came out, he would crawl up onto my arm and just relax. Now, whenever I go to handle him he just seems irritated and slithers away and doesn't like to be held. Is there something I'm doing wrong or should be doing when handling to make him more comfortable?

    And I wasn't too sure on how long to leave the lights in the tank on. My friend owns a Ball Python as well and at times she'll turn them off or on. The lights in my tank have been on 24/7 because if I turn them off, the thermometer drops to about 75 quickly and I don't want to make him sick or unhealthy from lack of heat. What do I do?

    I've been keeping the humidity around a reasonable 50% mostly and trying to make sure it doesn't go under that range. I have only been using a squirt bottle, called "Zilla - Humidifying Spray, Tropical Mist." - "Helps prevent dry skin and shedding problems, Fortified with rich emollients and Aloe Vera". The store I had bought him from told me I should use this to keep the tank humidified, but if there is a more effective or better way to do that, that would be nice.

    I set-up his tank with a hide on each side and a water bowl in the middle, but I'm thinking I should buy a larger water bowl since this one seems a little to small.

    If anyone can help me with any of these problems, I would appreciate it.

    -Thank you
    Imabur.

  2. #2
    BPnet Veteran Ash's Avatar
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    Re: Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    He might be more aggressive at the moment because he's going into shed. Mine normally get nippy around that time. You can tell he's going into shed if he gets a sort of gray overtone to him. It'll fade, and a couple of days later he should shed and after that should go right back to being friendly again.

    As for turning the lights on and off, I don't turn them off at all during the colder months. It doesn't affect their feeding response or shedding at all in my experience. Prioritize correct temperature over light/dark cycles.

    To keep the heat up, you might want to try using a higher wattage bulb. It wouldn't hurt to get a thermostat to control the temps, although I know many keepers who do fine without them. You can get a decent one for about 20 bucks. It would prevent dangerous temp spikes/drops. You can also tape a piece of silver foil over the lid of the tank (assuming you have a screen-top) and that helps a lot to keep in heat and humidity. I use a small piece of a heat proof emergency blanket I got out of an earthquake kit I had from grade school. It looks like and feels like strong silver foil for the most part and you can probably get one for around 2 bucks.

    As for the humidifying spray - there really is no need for aloe vera and all that extra stuff. Once it runs out, just fill it up again with regular old tap water and you can just as easily keep the humidity up that way. Or, if you have a screen-topped tank, you can wet a towel and put that over half - 3/4ths of the lid and it would do the job pretty well.

    Good luck with your new pet - I hope you have loads of fun keeping him

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    Imabur. (10-25-2009)

  4. #3
    Registered User Imabur.'s Avatar
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    Re: Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    I took him out just now to see if it was only the getting out part he wasn't happy about and see if he would relax once he's out. He seemed..alright. More like trying to squeeze my arm, and he was very jumpy at the slightest movement. =\

  5. #4
    Registered User Imabur.'s Avatar
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    Re: Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ash View Post
    He might be more aggressive at the moment because he's going into shed. Mine normally get nippy around that time. You can tell he's going into shed if he gets a sort of gray overtone to him. It'll fade, and a couple of days later he should shed and after that should go right back to being friendly again.
    I think that might be the issue. He looks like he has a sort of a film over his eyes, which I've been told is a sign of shedding? I will let him do his thing and help him out as much as I can, but thank you for the help, I will try both of the suggestions you gave me, too. =]

  6. #5
    BPnet Veteran Karbon's Avatar
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    Re: Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    The change in bevahior is probably due to the shedding and also probably due to him being in a new environment.

    Give him a bit of time to adjust and hold him regularly, but not too much, and he should eventually get more used to you.

    My snake is a year and 8 months old and he;s still really head-shy and jumpy sometimes, but i've been holding him more and he's starting to get better about it.

    As long as your BP is shedding nicely and eating well, you're doing everything right.

    Good luck with your new BP!
    0.1 Ball Python - Guinness
    1.0 Spider Ball Python - Gizmo

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    Imabur. (10-25-2009)

  8. #6
    BPnet Veteran seeya205's Avatar
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    Re: Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    Where are you measuring your temps from in the tank? You should have your probe on the bottom of the tank to read the belly temp! Your air temp is fine at 75 or above. Your snake is nervous when you handle it. He won't be so jumpy after he gets used to you!

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    Imabur. (10-25-2009)

  10. #7
    Registered User Imabur.'s Avatar
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    Re: Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    Quote Originally Posted by seeya205 View Post
    Where are you measuring your temps from in the tank? You should have your probe on the bottom of the tank to read the belly temp! Your air temp is fine at 75 or above.
    The probe was kind of midway down the side of the tank. I'll move it to the bottom right now and wait a little while to see what it reads. Thank you.

  11. #8
    BPnet Lifer Kaorte's Avatar
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    Re: Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    It should be right on the glass above the UTH. You should be measuring the hottest point in the tank that the snake can get to.
    ~Steffe

  12. #9
    BPnet Veteran cinderbird's Avatar
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    Re: Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    First off, I've been trying to get the warm side of his tank to around the high 80s or so, I'm using a digital thermometer so I'm sure it's reading accurately but the warm side is only around 80-81. Is there an easy fix to this? I have a heat pad on the bottom of the tank as well.

    - A thermostat will allow you to control the temps of the heat pad, they come in a few varieties, costing anywhere from 30 to over 100 dollars. I recommend a johnson controls or ranco, you can get them from a variety of websites.

    Lately he has seemed very aggressive, at first I was able to take him out of the tank easily, he didn't mind and when he came out, he would crawl up onto my arm and just relax. Now, whenever I go to handle him he just seems irritated and slithers away and doesn't like to be held. Is there something I'm doing wrong or should be doing when handling to make him more comfortable?

    How long have you had him? Give him 7 days to settle into his new home with no handling, only to change water or clean up any messes. After that, try feeding him, if he eats, give him another day or two to digest and then you can begin handling him. Go slowly, support his body and have him out for 10-15 minutes until he starts getting used to it. They may be nervous or nippy at first. You are like a giant hot predator to them, eventually he'll learn that you aren't a threat and be less defensive.

    And I wasn't too sure on how long to leave the lights in the tank on. My friend owns a Ball Python as well and at times she'll turn them off or on. The lights in my tank have been on 24/7 because if I turn them off, the thermometer drops to about 75 quickly and I don't want to make him sick or unhealthy from lack of heat. What do I do?

    I wouldn't leave a light on 24/7 for them. Balls are nocturnal and the constant light could stress them. If you have a thermostat for your UTH you may not even need the light for ambient temps. You can also try a Ceramic Heat Emitter, they emit heat but no light. Just make sure to watch your humidity because they dry the air.

    I've been keeping the humidity around a reasonable 50% mostly and trying to make sure it doesn't go under that range. I have only been using a squirt bottle, called "Zilla - Humidifying Spray, Tropical Mist." - "Helps prevent dry skin and shedding problems, Fortified with rich emollients and Aloe Vera". The store I had bought him from told me I should use this to keep the tank humidified, but if there is a more effective or better way to do that, that would be nice.

    Water in a spray bottle works fine, just make sure its hot water in the bottle. It will turn warm as soon as it hits the air. When i used tanks i sprayed 1-2 times a day.

    I set-up his tank with a hide on each side and a water bowl in the middle, but I'm thinking I should buy a larger water bowl since this one seems a little to small.

    I don't think i ever notice any of my guys soaking in their water bowls. It may be helpful for humidity if you have a larger bowl placed partway over the heat source or under the light/CHE.

    Good luck!

  13. #10
    BPnet Royalty OhhWatALoser's Avatar
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    Re: Problems that maybe someone more experienced could help with?

    give you my take

    First off, I've been trying to get the warm side of his tank to around the high 80s or so, I'm using a digital thermometer so I'm sure it's reading accurately but the warm side is only around 80-81. Is there an easy fix to this? I have a heat pad on the bottom of the tank as well.

    you really want the warm spot in the cage to be between 90-94, im guessing your heatpad is not being regulated right now, so you need more heat, heatbulb will most likly do the trick, but you need a thermostat. like said above there are plenty to choose from. my thermostat (helix) allows me to plug in more than one device, i would put both the heatpad and heatbulb on the thermostat if you can.

    Lately he has seemed very aggressive, at first I was able to take him out of the tank easily, he didn't mind and when he came out, he would crawl up onto my arm and just relax. Now, whenever I go to handle him he just seems irritated and slithers away and doesn't like to be held. Is there something I'm doing wrong or should be doing when handling to make him more comfortable? lots of reasons could cause this, first thing i would fix... see below

    And I wasn't too sure on how long to leave the lights in the tank on. My friend owns a Ball Python as well and at times she'll turn them off or on. The lights in my tank have been on 24/7 because if I turn them off, the thermometer drops to about 75 quickly and I don't want to make him sick or unhealthy from lack of heat. What do I do? this is the first thing you need to fix, your most likly stressing the little guy out. most people 12 hours on, 12 hours off or just no lights at all, BP arn't like bearded dragons they don't need special light bulbs for UVA and UVB light. but since you got the light, why not use it, you can get a mechanical plug in timer from home depot or store like it for 10 bucks.

    I've been keeping the humidity around a reasonable 50% mostly and trying to make sure it doesn't go under that range. I have only been using a squirt bottle, called "Zilla - Humidifying Spray, Tropical Mist." - "Helps prevent dry skin and shedding problems, Fortified with rich emollients and Aloe Vera". The store I had bought him from told me I should use this to keep the tank humidified, but if there is a more effective or better way to do that, that would be nice.

    what ever that stuff is, you don't need it, just use plain old water, since you got 1 snake, dollar store spray bottle will work perfect, just fill it with water and leave it in the reptile room, its doesn't have to be hot water like said above...room temp is fine. humidity isn't a big issue like everyone makes it out to be, your big indicator that your doing things right is a nice shed. just make sure its somewhat humid in there, i only mist my ball pythons when i see their in shed, but i have them in plastic tubs, so the water bowl keeps things humid enough, most likly the thing you got reading humidity for you isn't very accurate eigher, just look for good sheds. im assuming your using a screen top glass tank? once you got the heat bulb or CHE or w/e, cover the rest of the screen with a rag to keep humidity in. allow more or less air flow as needed.

    I set-up his tank with a hide on each side and a water bowl in the middle, but I'm thinking I should buy a larger water bowl since this one seems a little to small.

    up to you really, i just use 1 hide on the hot side and water bowl on the cold side.

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