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  1. #1
    Registered User RubixCube's Avatar
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    Thermoregulating My Tank

    Hey! So I recently adopted a ball python from a friend who could no longer afford the vet bills after she allowed him to burn himself on a bulb in the tank. I was given everything for free. Anyways due to a lot of conflicting information from vets unfamiliar with BPs and the previous owner I have had a difficult time maintaining a proper temperature and humidity.

    I am going to completely re-vamp everything. Here's what I currently have: 40 gal glass aquarium, Zoomed UTH (medium I think), screen top (held down by heavy books), cheap suction thermometers, heat lamp w/ 100 watt bulb. I mist the tank daily and keep the water dish full.

    I was wondering what to do about the screen top. I heard that you can do things to prevent the heat loss through the top. Any tips for this? I also heard that you can do away with the heat lamp and just have regulated UTH because BPs regulate body temps through conduction. I am definitely getting a thermostat of some sort. I can't really afford the Herpstat but I was looking at the BAH ones I think. I'm also thinking about putting moss in his hides. Any input would be helpful. Thanks!
    Sarah
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    Rubix Cube



  2. #2
    BPnet Veteran Hock3ymonk3y's Avatar
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    Re: Thermoregulating My Tank

    Are your thermomometers digital or analog? Get digital if they are analog because analogs have been known to be off by up to 10 degrees!

    Do you have a hygrometer? If no, the buy yourself one, again, a digital one, NOT an analog! If you are going to buy thermometers too, I recommend the acuurite digital thermometer/hygrometer with probe. You can find them at most wal-marts!

    this should help in knowing about proper temps and humidity levels: http://ball-pythons.net/modules/Sect...warticle&id=59

    I do not think you need moss in the hides if your humidity is adequit (sp?).

    you can cover the top of the screen with tin-foil/aluminum stuff, towels, or tape, and that should help with humidity.

    Also, do you have hides? If not, then you should get two IDENTICAL hides to help your BP feel more secure. healf log hides do NOT work! You need identical hides because your BP sould not have to pick between temperature and security.

    You should also put paper or some sort of covering on three sides of the tank. This will also help you BP feel more secure.

    How large is you BP? Unless it is a large female you probably do not need a 40 gallon tank... try using a 20 gal or a plastic shoebox tub.

    Hope this helps,
    Last edited by Hock3ymonk3y; 08-24-2009 at 08:49 PM.
    Kevin

    1.0 Normal Ball: Luther
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    RubixCube (08-24-2009)

  4. #3
    Registered User RubixCube's Avatar
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    Re: Thermoregulating My Tank

    Yeah I have 2 identical bowls w/ smooth edge holes cut in them. He seems to love them. He's about 2ish years old, 3.75 feet I think. I am considering getting a new smaller tank. It's alright to keep the larger one though right?

    Also I just got a digital thermometer/hygrometer. Would I need a way of monitoring both sides? How would I do this? Also the most important temperatures are the bottom of the tank ones right so that's where you measure?

    I can cover the other sides with something. He's in a low traffic area so I don't think he's bothered by that too much. What about the overhead lamp? And also placement of the UTHs? I don't want his "colder" side to be too cold.
    Sarah
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    Rubix Cube



  5. #4
    BPnet Veteran Argentra's Avatar
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    Re: Thermoregulating My Tank

    A 20gal long tank can house a BP up to 1000g They like smaller homes.

    You want to cover the back and sides, not only to give the snake security but also to insulate. Glass is terrible at keeping heat in, so we have to help it out by adding cork or foam board. It really helps keep things stable.

    If your thermometer has a probe, you want to place the probe UNDER the substrate against the glass right over where the UTH is. The substrate and the warm side hide will hold the probe down, or you can use velcro like I did. Place the main unit an inch or so above the substrate (so it's close to the ground) on the back wall.

    When using two UTHs, each goes on an opposite end. Each one must be controlled by its own thermostat, but having one on each end really stabilizes the temps.

    For the screen top, all you need is aluminum foil and duct tape. I have a sticky picture tutorial on how to put it on in the caging forum. It's really easy and works better than just about anything else.
    **Adriana - White 'N Nerdy!**

    1.0 BP 'SunSpot', 0.1 Corn 'Freya', 1.0 IJ BTS 'Topaz', 1.0 ND bunny 'Licorice'




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    Re: Thermoregulating My Tank

    i found this info on this site, and that's how i set up my tank. seems to be working really well.

    "What I used for my old 20L tank, since I had to use two UTHs was:
    I got a Repti temp 500r and two Lutron 300W dimmers. Plug UTHs into dimmers, set temps to 95 and 85 for warm and cool side, respectively. Plug dimmers into thermostat and set dial to appropriate level. This way, both a warm temp of 93ish and cool of 83ish are maintained."

    the cheapest place i found for the thermostat and UTHs was, oddly enough, better homes and gardens' store
    http://shop.bhg.com/category/1131/1/reptile.html

    the rheostats (dimmers) are $11 or 12 each at lowes.

    i insulated the sides and back with black foamcore and covered a little over 3/4 of the screen with plexiglass from a picture frame. i cut 2 pieces about half the size of the screen section. so half stays covered and the other one can slide open or closed more depending on what the humidity is at.
    Last edited by johnny wobble; 08-25-2009 at 02:01 PM. Reason: typo

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    RubixCube (08-25-2009)

  9. #6
    Registered User RubixCube's Avatar
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    Re: Thermoregulating My Tank

    Thanks! Who would have though Better Homes & Gardens has reptile section. So I decided to keep my larger tank because I don't want to move him to a smaller tank. I think with his hides he is fine with the size. I still need to order a thermostat but the digital thermometer/hygrometer is up and running. I might need some more help figuring out how to do the thermostat but I will let you guys know. Everyone on this site is so super helpful.
    Sarah
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    Rubix Cube



  10. #7
    Registered User RubixCube's Avatar
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    Re: Thermoregulating My Tank

    okay another question: Should I get 2 thermostats so that I can manage the cool side and warm side? For thermoregulating I would have 2 UTH's (1 on cool side & 1 on warm side), heat lamp, digital hygro/thermometer with probes, 2 thermostats (1 on the cool side & 1 on the warm side). Here's the thermostat I was thinking: http://shop.bhg.com/product/heaters/...ermometer.html
    Sarah
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    Rubix Cube



  11. #8
    BPnet Veteran Argentra's Avatar
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    Re: Thermoregulating My Tank

    Yes, you need two thermostats if you have two UTHs. Those stats are a good 'for now' stat while you save up for the better ones. I had 5 (sold 4, so now only have 1) that worked great for over a year with no issues. Others have used them for only a week and they've gone haywire. You just have to be careful setting things up and keep an eye on them.

    With 2 UTHs, you really shouldn't need the lamp anymore. But if you do, be sure to have it at least 8" above the screen top so it doesn't sap the humidity.
    **Adriana - White 'N Nerdy!**

    1.0 BP 'SunSpot', 0.1 Corn 'Freya', 1.0 IJ BTS 'Topaz', 1.0 ND bunny 'Licorice'




  12. #9
    Registered User RubixCube's Avatar
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    Re: Thermoregulating My Tank

    Thanks. Yeah I'll see how the temp stays without the lamp. It's kind of annoying so I would like to get rid of it. I'm ordering the stuff online but yeah I can't get the herpstat right now but will think about it for the future.
    Sarah
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    Rubix Cube



  13. #10
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    Re: Thermoregulating My Tank

    the way i set it up, and quoted above (sorry, don't remember the original poster, but somebody gets credit) you only need 1 thermostat to control 2 different temp zones. the UTHs are plugged into the dimmers and the dimmers are set to 95 on the hot side, 85 on the cool side. that's as hot as the UTHs will ever get because of the dimmers. then after the dimmers are set, they are plugged into the thermostat. then the thermostat is set to keep 92 on the warm side.

    so since the dimmers control how hot each UTH can get, they not only control the different temp zones with only 1 thermostat, but they're a backup if the thermostat does go haywire.

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