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BPnet Veteran
I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
Follow these e-mails from me to LLLReptile about my blood python who will still not eat. Read what they tell me on the last e-mail.
From: Me
Okay I don't know if you remember me but here's my story. I ordered a blood python and anery Kenyan sand boa and they arrived on 03/04/09. The blood python was D.O.A and was reported. I then payed shipping again and ordered another one. This one came alive on 03/06/09. He has yet to eat except for the times assisted. Now I'm NOT asking for a refund or exchange because that warranty has long gone. But I'm just asking what you guys fed them and how you guys fed your problem feeder ones. I'm SO scared for him. He eats when assisted but I feel SO bad doing this. PLEASE reply.
From: LLL
Sammy,
What are you offering it?
Sincerely,
Kevin Scott
From: Me
I've tried everything! From mice hoppers, adult mice, rat pups, and even chicks! NOTHING! I've also tried everything in the book to encourage eating.
From: LLL
Yea, unfortunately blood pythons are picky feeders and can be difficult to get feeding sometimes. We were feeding them small adult mice in paper bags, but they will usually take rat pups as well. What is the temperature inside of your cage?
Sincerely,
Kevin Scott
From: Me
Hot side fluctuates from 81F to 84F.
From: LLL
That's probably why it isn't eating. Blood pythons like it really hot, I would bump the basking spot up to 95 or 100 degrees.
Sincerely,
Kevin Scott
________________________________________________________________
Okay so I'm not sure but isn't that WAY to hot?
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BPnet Veteran
Re: I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
According to the sheet on ball-pythons.net, the temps should be: hot side-88-90, cool side-78-80. Your temps are too low right now.
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Re: I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
Describe its setup to me. What are the ambient temps at? Cool side?
NEVER heat a Blood up to ANYTHING over 90 degrees.
My hot spots are at 86, my babies are at an ambient temp of 81 to 82 with NO hot spot, 1 hide, and a water dish, and they're eating machines. They don't like it hot that's for sure!
Goes to show you what LLL knows about they're snakes
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The Following User Says Thank You to 2kdime For This Useful Post:
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BPnet Veteran
Re: I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
 Originally Posted by 2kdime
Describe its setup to me.
NEVER heat a Blood up to ANYTHING over 90 degrees.
My hot spots are at 86, my babies are at an ambient temp of 81 to 82 with NO hot spot, 1 hide, and a water dish.
Goes to show you what LLL knows about they're snakes 
SEE! Also if I recall correctly, you are the one who helped me out with my setup. And you told me that same thing and I said okay well no hot spot and low 80's. But now I'm being told different. UGHH!
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Re: I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
Listen to me, not LLL. I'm no expert, but if you heat your Blood up to even 85, I doubt they'll even feed. And if they did, and were exposed to a hot spot of the mid 90's, you'd get a regurgitation.
Can we run through the setup again? Or maybe a picture?
 Originally Posted by PythonBreeder
SEE! Also if I recall correctly, you are the one who helped me out with my setup. And you told me that same thing and I said okay well no hot spot and low 80's. But now I'm being told different. UGHH!
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Re: I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
I wouldn't go much higher than 90 degrees on the hot spot. Keep the humidity high.
You may try the filling your enclosure with crumpled paper and adding several feeder rodents of the correct size. I had this work on a couple of noneating ball pythons of mine.
I don't know about your setup,but, I'm sure that blood pythons would prefer a smallish enclosure as babies/juvies. If it is really small, maybe just a ten gallon aquarium.
It makes me sick to hear that the first one arrived dead. I received a very sick snake before that later died. It was from a big reptile store also. I'd recomend every one to stick with reputable breeders.
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Re: I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
I agree with 2kdime, LLL is wrong. Here is an episode of Reptile Radio, where Kara Glasgow talks about Blood Python Husbandry, etc. You can definitely trust Kara, she knows her stuff when it comes to Bloods. And this cleared up alot of confusion that I had too at first.
http://www.blogtalkradio.com/reptile...-Blood-Pythons
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jyson For This Useful Post:
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Re: I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
I wouldn't even give it a hot spot at this point. Babies sometimes seem to be freaked out by hot spots which can be one more stresser.
Best setup is just an ambient of 81 or 82, a small hide, water bowl, and that's it. Humidity not TOO high, 60 to 70% should suffice.
Since you've got him in a tank, can you cover 3 sides of the tank with paper to really darken that cage up?
What are your ambient temps?
Ever had him to the vet for a fecal?
How old is the snake and how long off feed?
Last edited by 2kdime; 08-02-2009 at 08:17 PM.
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BPnet Veteran
Re: I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
This is what he said when called on even LLL's care sheet saying not to go that high.
"Most care sheets and books say that, but Ive noticed that keeping them hotter really helps with the feeding response. When I provide a basking spot of 95, they are always right under the light. Try warming it up a little bit and obviously don't hold him or anything.
Sincerely,
Kevin Scott"
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Re: I'm almost 100% this is wrong.
Listen to 2kdime, he knows what he's talking about. Bloods have a slower metabolism, so if you get them too hot the rat will start to rot in its belly before it digests. Not a good thing. We keep our slugs over here at an ambient of 83 without a hotspot and they're bottomless pits when it comes to feeding.
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The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to m00kfu For This Useful Post:
2kdime (08-02-2009),Jyson (08-02-2009),Oroborous (08-04-2009)
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