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  1. #1
    Registered User BigManMoran's Avatar
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    Ball Python Blind?

    i have a sub adult female that hasnt eaten in a month she strikes but wont bite and coil ne tips???? please help she lost 200 grams since i bought her 2 months ago.

  2. #2
    Old enough to remember. Freakie_frog's Avatar
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    Re: Ball Python Blind?

    What method are you using to feed her.. Live, FT, PK ??
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  3. #3
    Registered User BigManMoran's Avatar
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    Re: Ball Python Blind?

    she was on live and i got her to eat 2 frozen thawed

  4. #4
    BPnet Lifer muddoc's Avatar
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    Re: Ball Python Blind?

    Assuming she hasn't had a owel movement or produced any other waste, 200 grams in one month is considerable for a sub adult. I would say something is terribly wrong, and I would get her to a vet.

    Just my .02,
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  5. #5
    BPnet Veteran Elise.m's Avatar
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    Re: Ball Python Blind?

    If you're just worried about her not coiling after she strikes, being that you feed her F/T she may know that it's already dead and therefore knows she doesn't need to kill it. Your posts weren't very clear, so that's one of my guesses.
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  6. #6
    BPnet Veteran stratus_020202's Avatar
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    Re: Ball Python Blind?

    Maybe her food is too big. How much does she weigh? What is the husbadry like? We need more information.

    I have a little one that just strikes at F/T too, but she loves live. Have you tried both? Is it a new snake, new enclosure maybe, did you give him time to settle in?
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  7. #7
    BPnet Royalty JLC's Avatar
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    Re: Ball Python Blind?

    From our Caresheet:

    WHY WON'T MY SNAKE EAT?
    In almost all cases, a ball python refuses to eat due to husbandry issues. Especially a young one. If your snake misses more than one meal (sometimes they will not want to eat while in shed) please check the following possible causes:

    Lack of Security -- No hides, or hides that are too large or exposed (ie: half logs). They prefer dark, tight hides they barely fit into. Also, if the enclosure is too large, or too open (glass) or in a high traffic area with a lot of loud noise or movement. Another snake in the same enclosure can also cause serious security issues.

    Over Handling -- Frequent intrusions into the enclosure, changes to the enclosure, and/or long frequent handling sessions can cause a shy snake to feel vulnerable and refuse to eat.

    Improper Temps -- Temps that are too high or too low, or temps that fluctuate too much. Make sure you have an accurate and consistent read on your temps.

    Improper Lighting -- Bright white lights shining directly into the enclosure, or 24 hour lighting can cause stress. Make sure there is some sort of day/night cycle.

    Offering New Prey -- Changing prey species (ie: mice to rats) or methods (ie: live to f/t) can cause refusal. Such changes can be made, but may require patience and persistence.

    Improper Offering of Prey -- Offering prey too frequently can do more harm than good. If a snake refuses, do not attempt to feed again for a week. Also, changing environments by moving to a feeding-box or removing hides and "furniture" can cause refusal in these shy snakes.

    Prey Too Large -- Too large an item may intimidate a snake and cause refusal, or even a regurgitation if it is eaten. Also, if a ball python has eaten large meals in the past, it can cause a sudden an indefinite period of fasting.

    Mites -- An external parasite common to snakes that must be treated and eradicated. A product called Provent-a-Mite (P.A.M.) is the safest and most effective method.

    Seasonal -- Sexually mature ball pythons may fast for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months during their mating season (typically anywhere from late fall to early spring) especially if a sexually mature snake of the opposite sex is in close proximity.

    Illness -- If all other possible reasons are eliminated, a vet check may be in order to look for internal parasites, as well as possible infections to the skin, scales, mouth or respiratory system.

    Fortunately, ball pythons are extremely hardy snakes that can go for months (if necessary) of fasting without suffering any ill effects. This gives a responsible keeper plenty of time to figure out why the snake refuses to eat and get them on a regular, consistent feeding regimen.
    Having posted that...I would like to say that I agree with muddoc...if that 200g weight loss is accurate, then it sounds like something more seriously wrong than a typical fast. I would be looking for a good herp vet in your area.
    -- Judy

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