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Thread: few questions

  1. #11
    Registered User unrezt's Avatar
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    Re: few questions

    Okay I don't know why but it wont let me edit my posts in this thread...

    Anyways, My hot side temp says 95, and the probe is taped down to the glass with aluminum tape. However when I feel the top of the substrate, its not warm at all. Should I be concerned?

  2. #12
    in evinco persecutus dr del's Avatar
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    Re: few questions

    Hi,

    You can only edit posts for about 9-10 minutes after they are first made.

    Now onto the meat and potatoes of the post.

    Firstly I hate the idea of tape inside the enclosure - low tack painters tape might be alright but anything stickier than that is a nightmare waiting to happen.

    Secondly - here is why you don't want to tape it down at first anyway.

    Once you have checked the temp on the glass under the substrate is not hot enough to burn your snake you move the probe to the surface inside the hot hide.

    You then adjust the depth (and possibly type ) of the substrate until the reading inside the hide is between 90-94f and you're golden.

    I also check the temps inside the cool hide once the warm end is dialed in to double check the temps where the snake will be hiding when he isn't in the hot hide.

    But if the temps ever feel warm to your touch they are possibly too warm - I just temp gunned my hand and got a reading of 94.1. Your skin might vary but generally the tank should not feel hot to the touch for you most of the time I suspect.

    Once you are happy that the temps are within range you can then fix the probe of the thermometer down somewhere that would let you see any changes you might need to react to.

    I suggest something like a hot glue gun - no danger to the snake once it has set and cures and easy to remove later if you need to.

    And yes humidity will change in different spots and heights in your enclosure - but as long as the snake has somewhere to go where the humidity is right and he feels secure then you have no real need to worry.

    Hope this helps a bit.


    dr del
    Derek

    7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.

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    unrezt (05-16-2009)

  4. #13
    Registered User unrezt's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Re: few questions

    Quote Originally Posted by dr del View Post
    Hi,

    You can only edit posts for about 9-10 minutes after they are first made.

    Now onto the meat and potatoes of the post.

    Firstly I hate the idea of tape inside the enclosure - low tack painters tape might be alright but anything stickier than that is a nightmare waiting to happen.

    Secondly - here is why you don't want to tape it down at first anyway.

    Once you have checked the temp on the glass under the substrate is not hot enough to burn your snake you move the probe to the surface inside the hot hide.

    You then adjust the depth (and possibly type ) of the substrate until the reading inside the hide is between 90-94f and you're golden.

    I also check the temps inside the cool hide once the warm end is dialed in to double check the temps where the snake will be hiding when he isn't in the hot hide.

    But if the temps ever feel warm to your touch they are possibly too warm - I just temp gunned my hand and got a reading of 94.1. Your skin might vary but generally the tank should not feel hot to the touch for you most of the time I suspect.

    Once you are happy that the temps are within range you can then fix the probe of the thermometer down somewhere that would let you see any changes you might need to react to.

    I suggest something like a hot glue gun - no danger to the snake once it has set and cures and easy to remove later if you need to.

    And yes humidity will change in different spots and heights in your enclosure - but as long as the snake has somewhere to go where the humidity is right and he feels secure then you have no real need to worry.

    Hope this helps a bit.


    dr del

    Ahh, thank you so much. I was just wondering because usually my snakes feel warm to the touch when I pick them up, but he wasn't.

    Another question or two (ya..again)

    How far would temperatures need to drop for a snake to be at risk for an RI?
    How high would temperatures have to be for a snake's skin to burn?

    Well I guess the burn would be more from prolonged exposure to a temp.

    Thanks.

  5. #14
    in evinco persecutus dr del's Avatar
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    Re: few questions

    Hi,

    To be honest I am not completely sure.

    I know the burn would happen faster than the RI.

    I would play it safe and avoid temps above 100f and below 75f if you can for prolonged periods of time.

    High temperatures can also cause severe neurological problems - which do not go away afterwards.

    My snakes at the moment seem to be trying to regulate their body temps to around 86 - gord I love shooting things with that temp gun, I think I am slipping into my second childhood.


    dr del
    Derek

    7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.

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    unrezt (05-16-2009)

  7. #15
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    Re: few questions

    Quote Originally Posted by blushingball419 View Post
    The thermometer probe should be all the way under the substrate. You just have to keep in mind that the temp on top of the substrate will be a few degrees less than what your thermometer says.
    I find that this more or less works with plastic tubs, but glass seems to work as an insulator. With glass enclosures, I put the probe inside the enclosure. (Actually, I have a tempgun (which I reccommend), but that's what I did when I used a digital thermometer.)

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    unrezt (05-16-2009)

  9. #16
    Registered User k2l3d4's Avatar
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    Re: few questions

    Quote Originally Posted by dr del View Post
    Hi,

    To be honest I am not completely sure.

    I know the burn would happen faster than the RI.

    I would play it safe and avoid temps above 100f and below 75f if you can for prolonged periods of time.

    High temperatures can also cause severe neurological problems - which do not go away afterwards.

    My snakes at the moment seem to be trying to regulate their body temps to around 86 - gord I love shooting things with that temp gun, I think I am slipping into my second childhood.


    dr del
    Ok this is the second time today that I have heard mention RI .... What is that?
    1 baby normal ball python (male- Rios)
    1 baby spider ball python (female - Missy)
    1 albino checkered garter (male - Little Dude)
    1 checkered garter (male - Hudinie)
    1 albion checkered garter (female - Rescue)

  10. #17
    in evinco persecutus dr del's Avatar
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    Re: few questions

    Hi,

    OK I know I am about to spell this wrong but here goes.

    RI stands for respiratory infection - sometimes you will also see URI - upper respiratory infection.

    Signs include bubbly mucus in the mouth and the back of the throat, sounds when breathing (clicks pops and wheezes ), open mouthed breathing and sitting with the head elevated to try and help with the breathing.

    You can also sometimes see traces of the mucus in the waterbowl or smeared on the cage furnishings.


    dr del
    Derek

    7 adult Royals (2.5), 1.0 COS Pastel, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Lesser platty Royal python, 1.1 Black pastel Royal python, 0.1 Blue eyed leucistic ( Super lesser), 0.1 Piebald Royal python, 1.0 Sinaloan milk snake 1.0 crested gecko and 1 bad case of ETS. no wife, no surprise.

  11. #18
    Registered User k2l3d4's Avatar
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    Re: few questions

    Quote Originally Posted by dr del View Post
    Hi,

    OK I know I am about to spell this wrong but here goes.

    RI stands for respiratory infection - sometimes you will also see URI - upper respiratory infection.

    Signs include bubbly mucus in the mouth and the back of the throat, sounds when breathing (clicks pops and wheezes ), open mouthed breathing and sitting with the head elevated to try and help with the breathing.

    You can also sometimes see traces of the mucus in the waterbowl or smeared on the cage furnishings.


    dr del
    Ok.....thank you for the information..... does not sound fun....typing one handed since the baby is out hanging with me right now
    1 baby normal ball python (male- Rios)
    1 baby spider ball python (female - Missy)
    1 albino checkered garter (male - Little Dude)
    1 checkered garter (male - Hudinie)
    1 albion checkered garter (female - Rescue)

  12. #19
    BPnet Veteran Crazy4Herps's Avatar
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    Re: few questions

    Quote Originally Posted by dr del View Post
    Hi,
    You can also sometimes see traces of the mucus in the waterbowl or smeared on the cage furnishings.
    ...Or on your hand. When my girl had an RI, I was her kleenex. Trust me, RIs are something you want to avoid. Lots of vet bills plus a suffering baby.

    typing one handed since the baby is out hanging with me right now
    lol I do that all the time!

  13. #20
    Registered User k2l3d4's Avatar
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    Re: few questions

    Yeah.. I think that I end up retyping everything when I let the baby hang with me on my lap, cause it always ends up wrapping up around my hand.
    1 baby normal ball python (male- Rios)
    1 baby spider ball python (female - Missy)
    1 albino checkered garter (male - Little Dude)
    1 checkered garter (male - Hudinie)
    1 albion checkered garter (female - Rescue)

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