Another Failed attempt

[VegaBP]

So I tried feeding again tonight will no avail.

I was curious is everyone's BP's are constantly trying to escape. If She is out of her hide the only thing she is trying to do it escape. She was so preoccupied trying to escape she wouldn't even take notice to the feeder.

Is it my husbandry? Is it my enclosure? I've tried everything with no change. She's my first bp and I'm really becoming disheartened. I feel like I'm incapable of keeping her happy enough to want to eat!!!! Picky Picky Picky..... I wish I could be this picky ha ha.

[DixiePythons]

How long have you had her?
What kind of enclosure/temps/humidity?

[grim reaper in NY]

We need more details about your enclosure. Does your snake have 2 hides? What is her bedding? How hot is her tank? Does she have a hot & cold side so she can thermoregualte her body heat? How long have you had your snake? Was she feeding when you got her? Where did you get her from? Was it a pet store or a breeder? The more info you can give the better equipped we will be to help solve your dilemma.

[sum182]

If you have her in a tank, try putting her in a tub ( with correct husbandry of course ) this worked with 2 of my nonfeeders. They hated the tank but after a week in a tub the ate right away.

[rabernet]

Have you had a chance to review this checklist from our caresheet yet?

WHY WON'T MY SNAKE EAT?
In almost all cases, a ball python refuses to eat due to husbandry issues. Especially a young one. If your snake misses more than one meal (sometimes they won't want to eat while in shed) please check the following possible causes:

Lack of Security -- No hides, or hides that are too large or exposed (ie: half logs). They prefer dark, tight hides they barely fit into. Also, if the enclosure is too large, or too open (glass) or in a high traffic area with a lot of loud noise or movement. Another snake in the same enclosure can also cause serious security issues.

Over Handling -- Frequent intrusions into the enclosure, changes to the enclosure, and/or long frequent handling sessions can cause a shy snake to feel vulnerable and refuse to eat.

Improper Temps -- Temps that are too high or too low, or temps that fluctuate too much. Make sure you have an accurate and consistent read on your temps.

Improper Lighting -- Bright white lights shining directly into the enclosure, or 24 hour lighting can cause stress. Make sure there is some sort of day/night cycle.

Offering New Prey -- Changing prey species (ie: mice to rats) or methods (ie: live to f/t) can cause refusal. Such changes can be made, but may require patience and persistence.

Improper Offering of Prey -- Offering prey too frequently can do more harm than good. If a snake refuses, do not attempt to feed again for a week. Also, changing environments by moving to a feeding-box or removing hides and "furniture" can cause refusal in these shy snakes.

Prey Too Large -- Too large an item may intimidate a snake and cause refusal, or even a regurgitation if it is eaten. Also, if a ball python has eaten large meals in the past, it can cause a sudden an indefinite period of fasting.

Mites -- An external parasite common to snakes that must be treated and eradicated. A product called Provent-a-Mite (P.A.M.) is the safest and most effective method.

Seasonal -- Sexually mature ball pythons may fast for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months during their mating season (typically anywhere from late fall to early spring) especially if a sexually mature snake of the opposite sex is in close proximity.

Illness -- If all other possible reasons are eliminated, a vet check may be in order to look for internal parasites, as well as possible infections to the skin, scales, mouth or respiratory system.

Fortunately, ball pythons are extremely hardy snakes that can go for months (if necessary) of fasting without suffering any ill effects. This gives a responsible keeper plenty of time to figure out why the snake refuses to eat and get them on a regular, consistent feeding regimen.

[Vacado]

My 07 girl behaves similarly. I've had her since December 12 and I have tried tweaking things every several weeks but to no avail. She spends most of her time chilling in her hides, but almost every evening while I'm sitting here doing computer work she comes out for a few hours and tries to escape (pushing her nose into nooks around the tub, cruising heavily, etc.). Then she goes back in her hides and gives up, but may come out later during the night to try again. Every now and then she'll be doing it during the middle of the day, even.

My temps are good (though I have tried slightly warmer/cooler to see if that was it), humidity is spot-on, I've tried clear open tubs, tubs covered in black plastic, changing the size/material/placement/number of hides, changing the water bowl size/style, changing the type of bedding...I just can't seem to figure out what her issue is! She has poo'd and shed (perfectly) a few times but still refuses to eat, and still does her little escape routine. I'm almost at my wit's end trying to figure it out. I've been told by a few people to chalk it up to hormones, but I don't know that I'm fully satisfied with that. My other BPs are totally happy and chill, so Penelope is a mystery to me.

v

[Woody190]

Have you tried pre-scenting the room where her enclosure is? When my BP went off feeding for a couple weeks I just increased the time I pre-scented and it worked beautifully.

[VegaBP]

Robin: I have most definitely read the care sheet, a few times actually. But all of these bp's are so different, I'm just trying to get some feedback from owners with super picky eaters to see how theirs compare and maybe pick up and unorthodox procedure that has worked for someone else. Because at this point I just want the poor girl to eat!!! But As for the care sheet I've written a little bit about my enclosure next to all the bullet points just so everyone has enough info the give their two cents. Thank You for everyone who has already responded I love the help I get from this community.

Lack of Security -- She has two hides hot and cold completely identical. She barely fits into them which is what I was told was the way it should be. Three sides of the tank are covered in black foam board for insulation. She also has a large array of plants and such inside the enclosure. She is in my bedroom in the basement of my home and the only time there is someone in there is when the old lady and I are sleeping or if I'm checking her enclosure.

Over Handling -- Since I got her in February I have handled her eight to ten times. I only handle her if I have to because she hasn't eaten yet. When I do handle her its for a very brief period less than five minutes. (Which also sucks because since I got her I haven't been able to enjoy her like I want to)

Improper Temps -- I have two thermometers in the tank (accu-rite) one for the hot one for the cold. I check them almost hourly and they are consistent. Hot=92 cold=84 ambient=78 Humidity is a constant 51-52.

Improper Lighting -- I took the light off the tank within the first two weeks of having her. There is no supplemental light in her tank or in the room. She gets only want comes in the windows of the room. It stays fairly dark in the room most of the time.

Offering New Prey -- I have offered every prey. Male Female Rat Mouse black white brown f\t live and pre-killed.

Improper Offering of Prey -- I only offer once A week. Unless I dramatically change something in the enclosure than I skip a week. (only had to do this twice)

Prey Too Large -- I've resorted to feeding adult mice because they are smaller than the rats and the humane society i got her from (who never did the check ups they said they would) said she was eating two of them (the adult mice) a sitting.

Mites -- I am always looking for signs of mites. She never soaks I've never found anything in her water. And the few times I've handled her I am always looking for them!

Seasonal -- I guess this could very well be the problem.

Illness -- Well this part I can say she does not wheeze, so RI doesn't seem possible (no mucus, or other RI symptoms) I check her belly for possible burn or scale rot whenever she's stretched out in her enclosure and her belly always looks great. She has defecated three times since I've had her and every time they have been great (not runny or gross and stinky). But I'm obviously not a vet so clearly I can't say for sure if there is nothing wrong.

[VegaBP]

Have you tried pre-scenting the room where her enclosure is? When my BP went off feeding for a couple weeks I just increased the time I pre-scented and it worked beautifully.

I pre-scent for about a hour and a half every time before I feed her.

[Spaniard]

If she's trying to escape and roaming during the daytime hours I would be concerned that something about the husbandry is off, but your description of temps/humidity is spot on. If she's roaming and trying to escape at night its not as irregular a behavior as it would be during the day.

I keep my snakes in tubs but I've had success in getting a stubborn snake to eat by moving him from a 32qt tub to a 15qt tub temporarily. Its a lot easier for me to switch to a smaller tub than it would be for you to switch to a smaller glass viv but have you considered trying a tub until you can get him feeding? Its just an idea...

If not you could monitor his weight with the current set up and just go with the flow, making sure he's not losing a lot body mass, and offering a meal once a week.