Is it possible that a ball python might WANT to be held all the time??

[dakski]

Ok, BPmom, a few things.

First, I can see you want what's best for your BP, so as others have said, some things need to be addressed. I/we understand you are new to this and I'll just explain, from my point of view, what needs to be addressed, and please understand I am being matter of fact and not judgmental or snarky. Many people have been keeping reptiles for longer than you and are still learning every day.

Here is a quick list:

1. BP is thin. Get a proper weight and begin feeding according to the schedule below (my apologies if it has already been posted). Use for proper size initially and then for both size and frequency. Being thin now, I would recommend feeding every 7 days for a while and then you can got to every 10-14 as you see fit. Many people here end up offering every 10-14 days as BP's often begin refusing if healthy and happy and proper weight. My female BP eats every 14 days and rarely misses a meal except for her winter fast. When I offered weekly, she refused often.



2. You need 2 appropriate sized and identical hides. If addressed, again, my apologies. However, you want a hide on the warm side and the cool side (at least) that your BP can fit snuggly into and feel safe and secure.

3. I think you mentioned you were working on it, but you absolutely, positively, need a thermostat for every heating device! Cooler temps make reptiles as risk of illness (usually over extended exposure) and can make it difficult or impossible for them to properly digest. However, too hot can cause neurological damage, burns, and death, quickly.

People often seem to think if 90F is good, 95F is better! It doesn't work like that.

Aim for a 88-90F hot spot, 82-84F ambient temps, and about 78-80F cool side. It's hard to maintain a wide range in a small, and especially glass, tank. I'll address that in a minute. Worst case, 88-90F hot spot and 78-82F cool side with some gradient in between will work for now.

We can recommend good thermostats if you are unsure what to get.

DO NOT RELY on thermostat probes or air temp thermometers for actual ground temperature. Always use a good temp gun! Calibrate that temp gun by shooting the beam at your room thermostat and adjusting accordingly. If room thermostat reads 70F and the temp gun reads 71F, subtract 1F from whatever reading you get from the temp gun. Shoot the thermostat at the same distance (as close as possible) as you shoot the ground of the enclosure. Try to keep the beam as straight as possible (up/down) and avoid long distances or angles, if possible.

Those 3 need to be addressed ASAP.

Also, you are probably going to want a larger (non-glass) enclosure soon as well. Glass tanks are difficult to maintain temps and humidity in. Not impossible, especially in summer, but come dry north east winters, not too easy.

We can all chime in on what, how much to spend, etc. later. However, I wanted to plant the seed. You will spend more time adjusting and fiddling with the small glass tank and spend more money on electricity etc. in the long run then you would need to if you get a proper enclosure.

You mentioned misting. Okay, if necessary, but not ideal. When it's 20% humidity in my house in the dead of winter, and 45-50% in my BP and BCI tanks, I will spray every 2-3 days to keep it over 55-60%. However, I have enclosed tanks (Boaphile Tanks) and it holds the humidity well once I raise it. In a glass tank, it's really a losing battle.

If you must mist, USE WARM-HOT (tap - 115-125F usually, not boiling) water. Cool water in a spray bottle gets cold when sprayed. Not good. Warm-Hot water cools down to luke warm water. You don't want to shock the tank and especially your BP by spraying in cool water. That's a recipe for your BP to get sick.

Finally, I have included below my steps for defrosting F/T prey items. Everyone seems to have their own technique, but this has worked for me for years.

STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-.

4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey for when ROE is bigger and eating Large rats, for example).

6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

13. Open tank and offer ASAP.


This may sound like a lot, but do your best to absorb as much as possible, and please ask questions! We are here to help.

Good luck!