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  1. #11
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    I am also using a 40g breeder, no UTH just a 100W CHE on a thermostat (set to 90) and 100W Night Blue on a dimmer (cool side ~81-83).

    After a bit of fine tuning the humidity has become very easy to control and the temps only require a little fine tuning using the bulbs dimmer depending on the outside ambient temp.

    Humidity control was done by covering the metal mesh lid with cardboard wrapped in foil, the only exposure to air being the lamp hood placements (With about 1in to spare around the edges of the hoods), easily up the humidity for about 12-24h by placing warm damp strips of towel or rags beneath the foil cover on top of the mesh lid. Oh and don't use ceiling fans in that room, it'll drop it to your rooms ambient almost immediately.

    Doing that should prevent your substrate from getting too soaked (misting) which will help prevent scale rot, and won't force him to use moist hides (wet moss in all his hides) as the ambient humidity should be peachy.

    Basically hot damp towel + low air exchange = Happy snake tank. - if you only have one lamp, you may have to experiment with the lids vent wholes, ours has one for each lamp each ~9in diameter.

    ** Also, strangely, and this may be superstition, but we've started placing a thin pillow against the wall of the aquarium wedged between it and the wall. I swear the thing gets warm and has boosted our temp about 1.5 degrees vs the same power without

    Really it's pretty low maintenance, we're probably going to get a piece of plexiglass cut for the lid at some point to replace the cardboard+foil but it's working great on a budget.
    Last edited by About10Owls; 01-04-2016 at 01:47 PM.

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