Quote Originally Posted by RichsBallPythons View Post
Well first, your temperatures are all over the place, Which is one indication why its not eating. Temps need to be properly measured and controlled. As so humidity needs to be properly measured and controlled. Get digital thermometer and not stick on dials ones.

Another is you have a 50g baby is a 20g tall tank. That baby should be in a 5-10g tank at most, or even better a 6qt plastic bin. Your doc/vet is just that, they dont know the first thing to properly housing reptiles. Ive yet to see a vet know what their talking a bout when it comes to proper care of reptiles. Theres very few that know the requirements of reptiles.

you need to have a 78-80 cool side and a 88-90 warm side. This needs to stay constant 24/7 with no night time drops. Also need a thermostat to control the temps properly to minimize stress and overheating.

Food needs to be offered live till they are eating. Offer either live pinky rats or live hopper mice. Dont stand over the snake and gawk at it, drop the mouse / rat in and walk away. Neither will harm the snake and will help with privacy.


And till all this is fixed, no handling till snake eats for you 3-4 times consecutively
Every care sheet I have read says night drops of 5 degrees. I do have a heat grade...78-80 cool side and 85-90 hot side. sometimes 2 degrees more due to house change. Not sure why you say my temps are all over. Thermometers are glass, not dial...the kind used to calibrate digital ones. They are feed in a closed box 7"x7" in a room by themselves...no gawking as you put it. I have a 20H tank because I had 2 BPS, and have had snakes in smaller tanks but heating grades are not the greatest in 5-10 gallon tanks.

As far as the doc goes, she is owns numerous snakes, BPs, boa and berm. She might not be perfect but I didn't bring a snake to a cat doctor.