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Aquarium Solution
The Lucylid fix!
The aquarium mod the solves most tank troubles!
The problem is screen lids do not hold humidly well. The average tank despite being a cost effective home for a ball python is a poor shape. Tall and narrow, the solution to both problems is to lay the tank on its side. One side becomes the bottom and bottom becomes the back.
This leaves a gaping hole in the front. I designed a 'plug' to fit into that space. The construction is quite simple really.
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Materials and tools:
Drill
Drill bits (1/8, 1/4, 5/16 in my case new and sharp)
Sanding block (6 inches) and 120 grit sand paper
Pop rivet gun and a selection of rivets
Plexiglass the size of the tank opening
Fish tank of your choose
3 Micro cam locks (like these size 'A' http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41419,41455 )
3 Hinges (like these size 'a' http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41241,41250 )
Straight edge and measurement implement (a ruler did double duty for me)
Pen
hot melt glue gun and some glue sticks
Exacto knife
1. Measure the inside of the tank opening one the plastic surround. Be accurate! get as close as you can. From the 'height' (on the upright tank that would be width) subtract 3 inches. I decided on 1/8 plexiglas over heavier it is a bit flexible but I was only using a standard 15 gal tank.
The snake that will call this home is a small female that was a twin and was born with one eye and very small she is doing well now.
I had the plexi cut for me by the store I purchased it from. They used a scrap and squared it up and cut it on a table saw. Table saws work as long as the blade is sharp. I have used a exacto knife and straight edge as well. Just score the surface with a few passes (go easy you can't cut through in one pass don't try someone usually goes wrong.) and then just bend away from the cut and it will snap along the line. Use the straight edge as a guide.
2. Check the fit both bits should fit in but not bind too much. If they do sand the sedge with a mechanical sander (hold the plexus tight to a table with a small bit hanging over the edge) Or use a sanding board and some elbow grease (That is my preference)
3. Lay the 2 sections together aligned edge to edge on a flat scrap or work bench (you will need to drill holes so it will go though the plexi) Mark the position of the hinges 2 isn't firm enough but three works great. I marked about an inch from the edge and then the centre. Make sure they are square and even with each other! Mark and drill the correct size holes.
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4. Mark and drill the ventilation holes I used 1/4 inch use your own discretion for sizes and spacing. You will need a very sharp drill bit (new is best) met for wood and metal. I tried a brad point and it was not good. Go slow take it easy or it will split! If you are in a humid area you will need more if it is very dry less. You know your area, I don't do what you think is best, you can always add more or cover some. If you are planning on running thermostat probes or temp cords now is the time to mark and drill for those too. Alternatively you can notch the edge to take a wire. measure for the micro cam locks, the length of the arm from the edge. The easiest way is remove the arm from the lock and lay it flat on the plexi, mark the hole and then measure the size of the locks shaft and drill the correct size hole again about 2 inches from each edge and the centre.
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5. I used a pop rivet gun to fasten the hinges, most mechanical fasteners will work but pop rivets are easy and work well. I used 1/8 holes and correct sized rivets. Remove plastic film, and fasten the hinges, edge, edge, then centre. Keep the 2 parts of plexi tight together otherwise it will be too big and bind. If you don't do this order it can get slightly out of alignment and make disassembly difficult.
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6. Check the fit again and locks! adjust as needed. Check all the holes, make sure there is nothing sharp if it is use a sharp exacto blade point to scrape the edge down a bit. (place in the hole and gently turn). Check the pop rivets too if they are sharp a blob of hot melt glue will cover them over.
7. This is a bit tricky, preheat a hot melt glue gun. Mark the bottom and 3 inches up the side with a pen. Take a hair drier and heat the lower lip of the tank with it. Add a bead of hot melt and very quickly place the plug in place on the glue line add an extra bead on the outside. Hold in place until the glue cools. Re-check to make sure it closes and the locks work then you are done.
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8. I'd add something on what was the bottom (so you can't see through the tank) and perhaps the sides as well. I am going to use photographs of grassy bits slightly out of focus for thisAdd your preferred heat source (heat lamps won't work well so uth or flexwatt Radiant panels will likely take up too much room unless you have a huge tank.
Be careful you are using a side as a bottom. The smaller tanks have sides the same thickness as the bottom, Bigger tanks have thicker bottoms, The side is intended to hold the weight of water (1gal of water is about 10 pounds) but be careful of adding too much weight. I have added plastic bumpers to the new bottom to hold it off the table it will be used on so the heat source doesn't get too hot. Again use your own discretion.
This is my idea and a quick description of how I made mine. If you choose to make your own I hope that you will read this look at what I have done and adapt it to your own needs. These are not precise plans so please don't fault me if something goes wrongly for you mine works and has been running 1 week at this point with no problems the humidity and temps are good (please use some sort of controller for your heat source!!!) With no misting other than an initial time after set up.
I feel that Tubs work well, but for those of us whom have small collections and want to observe the snakes or at least the 'landscaped' enclosure and don't have a budget that supports a custom purpose build enclosure, that this variation on a traditional tank will solve some of the tank issues the are often encountered.
Alex
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