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Thread: Shed issue

  1. #1
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    Shed issue

    my baby ball has been in shed for about 6-7 weeks!!!!!!! idk what is going on? when i first realized he was in shed, i checked his humidity n saw it was a little low. but now his temps n humidity are -- temp around 70-80, humidity around 50-60. he has shed the lower 3-4 of his body, but from his head down just b4 midbody still have dead skin on it. its just on the top portion of him. i keep thinking it will just come off but it wont? what should i do. would a bath be helpful?

  2. #2
    BPnet Veteran DutchHerp's Avatar
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    Who the hell is Pat?

    "Pattimuss doesn't run, he prances most delicately, like a beautiful but sad fairy, winged and capped, curly toed shoes on each foot, dancing on dewdrops while lazy crickets play soft music for him to keep time by...." - Wes

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    Re: Shed issue

    a warm bath with the help of a washcloth worked wonderss!

  4. #4
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    Re: Shed issue

    I've had problems with my baby shedding also...same as you described. I soaked mine in a rubbermaid container for about 40 minutes then peeled off what I could by hand. Her head still has some shed on it but I am taking her to a vet this week to get the eyecaps removed (thats what I'm worried about the most). so to reiterate, soak in warm water for about 40 minutes then get her out and see what you can work off....do the top first and then work around the belly since it is the most sensitive.

  5. #5
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    Re: Shed issue

    if ur gunna try n peel of the skin by hand please be extra gental ... theres atleast one post on this forum where an owner tried this and ended up pull off the new skin ! even as far as damaging the actual eye of the snake ... but honestly use a nice soft cloth to help ease the stuck shed off

  6. #6
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    Re: Shed issue

    thanks for the help everyone! the washcloth got most off. theres still a little but ill wait n see if he can get it.

  7. #7
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    Re: Shed issue

    No one else is gonna mention temps are around 70-80? That's gonna be a huge issue right there man. You gotta get your temps up.

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    Re: Shed issue

    Ditto- im a newbie for sure and i know how hard it is to geta tank set up for the first time- but pm argenta and she will send you stuff thatll help you insulate your tank.

  9. #9
    BPnet Veteran missi182's Avatar
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    Re: Shed issue

    There are a few issues I am willing to bet you need to address to help your bp prosper (including shed properly) so I am posting this summary care sheet. The issue of heat and humidity is included in this info so instead of asking you 101 questions I hope this can help you out right away.

    This is a BRIEF list of what care is required for a ball python. Please refer to our care sheets (http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/f...splay.php?f=62) for more detailed information.


    1) To measure your humidity and temperature accurately - Use DIGITAL gauges (stick on gauges are NOT reliable, and a waste of money unfortunately) The most cost friendly device you can purchase is an accurite digital thermometer/hygrometer from wal-mart for $12. The gauge does not have to be this brand, but something with an outdoor/indoor measurement will work because this means the device uses a probe.

    2) You need a belly temperature (right on the glass under the hide on one side of the tank) measured by a probe (which comes with something like an accurite) of 90 - 93 degrees. This is where your bp will spend his time digesting and hanging out A LOT. A UTH (under tank heater) costs about $20 at a pet store but MUST have a control.

    The safest and most reliable type of control is a thermostat ($70 - $300) but the minimum requirement for a control is something like a lamp dimmer (a rheostat, which is something that must be manually adjusted). Lowes sells piggyback lamp dimmers for about $10.

    3) You need a hide on the cooler side of the tank with a belly temperature or ambient temperature in the low 80's. This can be achieved through a heat lamp with the correct wattage bulb, or simply a nice warm room. Keep in mind that the two hides you choose should be the same so your bp feels EQUALLY secure in BOTH hides. Your bp will choose where it feels safest, whether or not it is the correct temperature.

    4) HUMIDITY = very important - just as important as temperature. 55-60% humidity is required for proper shedding. A CLEAN damp cloth on the top of a tank (changed daily), sphagnum moss in a bowl, and spraying with a water bottle are common methods of helping humidity. For more tips on how to increase humidity please see the care sheets.

    5) A sturdy water dish with fresh water can be put anywhere in the tank, if placed over a UTH (under tank heater) it can help raise the humidity.

    6) Substrate can be anything from newspaper or cage liners to aspen. Cedar is TOXIC. Do not use cedar. CYPRESS mulch is good - don't mix it up with cedar.

    7) Security - ball pythons are shy. They hide more than 80% of the time so if your snake is hiding a lot, thats a good thing. Cover three sides of your tank with paper/aquarium background - what ever you would like to help your snake feel less exposed. Snug, identical hides are a MUST, one on the cool side one on the hot side.

    8) Feeding - Live or FT (frozen/thawed) prey can be used approx once a week. Feeding size should be approx the width of the thickest part of your snake and approx 10-15% of the body weight (these are guidelines only)
    1.0 Normal Ball Python- Little Dude
    0.0.1 Albino Kingsnake - Weiner
    Missi

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