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  1. #11
    BPnet Lifer mainbutter's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    one option is to downsize the 55g to a 20 gallon long, your snake certainly doesn't need and probably doesn't even want all that space you're providing for its current size.

    Less space is easier to heat and easier to maintain humidities, lower ceilings help a ton.

  2. #12
    Registered User JimmyBalls's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    I've always had serious humidity problems in the winter and can't seem to get it above 55% so I bought an extra water dish and cave to cover it. I heard of others doing this platic bins and a cut out hole. I'm surprised how often they soak in that. Before I set myself up with this, I'd soak them in the tub every other day. I tell my wife I'm taking the kids to the beach and they seem to love it.

  3. #13
    BPnet Veteran starmom's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    Quote Originally Posted by python.princess View Post
    Do you have a UTH? Ball pythons prefer belly heat and the heat lamps can suck up a lot of humidity!....
    Nope. I have 6 ball pythons in 6 cages and all are heated by radiant heat panels RHP's are awesome as they don't zap humidity, they raise ambient temps (flex watt and UTH's can't), and they are really awesome. Here's how Rich describes the effectiveness of RHP's:

    "...RHP's are similar to Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHE) - they both project IR heat into the cage. Unlike CHE's that get very, very hot on their surface, these RHP's maintain temperatures safe to use inside the cage. This Infrared Heat tends to heat objects more than the air, much like the natural sunlight outdoors. This type of heat mimics real sunlight both in the direction it comes from and its penetration into the muscle tissue. IR heat has been shown to have a therapeutic effect on sick and injured animals as well. Your reptiles will spend less time basking and receive a much greater benefit from it. The RHP has been the heat of choice for the bird community for years due to these benefits. We at Reptile Basics Inc want to see the RHP gain this popularity in the reptile field!..."

    Here is a link to the RHP FAQ from the Reptile Basics site and from which the above quote was copied: http://www.reptilebasics.com/Radiant...FAQ-sp-11.html


    ~~McKinsey~~
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  4. #14
    BPnet Veteran jknudson's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    Quote Originally Posted by starmom View Post
    Nope. I have 6 ball pythons in 6 cages and all are heated by radiant heat panels RHP's are awesome as they don't zap humidity, they raise ambient temps (flex watt and UTH's can't), and they are really awesome. Here's how Rich describes the effectiveness of RHP's:
    Honestly RHPs are great for Melamine or PVC style cages that actually hold the heat that they throw off, but on a glass tank those panels would really be inefficient. And without a solid top, you're going to be constantly allowing the heat to escape...again overworking the heat panel. Just not the best choice for this application... I don't know about you, but I choose my heat sources do to the application and their efficiency.

    I know what Melanie meant was that, the UTH is a better choice to use than a heat lamp because they aren't going to sap the humidity out of the air.

    OP, if you're having problems keeping the temperatures correct in the glass tank, my guess is that it's much too large, or that your UTH is much too small. Instead of worrying about getting that hot spot just right, maybe you could go with two areas of flexwatt heat tape, or an additional UTH on the cool side...run the cool side area your 82-85 and then your hot side heat tape at 90-94. This will help to bring up the all around ambient temperature.

    And this time of year, depending on room temps the cage is in, and the poor insulation of the aquarium standalone, it might be wise to tape some foam insulation to the sides and back of the aquarium. It may be unsightly, but it should help to hold those temps more stable.

    Hope this helps.
    Jason

  5. #15
    BPnet Veteran python.princess's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    BTW- Do you have probes on your thermometer to tell you what the temp is inside the warm side hide?
    *I love this crazy, tragic, almost magic, awful, beautiful life*
    ~melanie~

  6. #16
    Registered User instinct27's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    I have found that placing wet paper towels under the foil (at the top of your enclosure) to help quite a lot. Easy to replace and you can make it a few layers thick in order for things to stay moist for longer.
    Enzi - 0.0.1 Normal Ball Python
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  7. #17
    BPnet Veteran snakelady's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    I agree a smaller tank would be better. Also, use a thick wet towel (not dripping wet but nice and saturated) on top of the tank. cover as much as possible but don't get to close to the light. Wet it again when needed - probably every day or so. Change it every 3-4 days with a fresh clean one. And No you will not have any "cleanliness" problems from the wet towel. Worked great for me when I had tanks.
    ~Tashai
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  8. #18
    BPnet Veteran starmom's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    Quote Originally Posted by jknudson View Post
    Honestly RHPs are great for Melamine or PVC style cages that actually hold the heat that they throw off, but on a glass tank those panels would really be inefficient. And without a solid top, you're going to be constantly allowing the heat to escape...again overworking the heat panel. Just not the best choice for this application... I don't know about you, but I choose my heat sources do to the application and their efficiency. ...
    Agreed. And I think that one would make a solid top for a tank from which to affix the RHP


    ~~McKinsey~~
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    ~The Little Prince; Antoine de Saint Exupery

  9. #19
    BPnet Veteran jknudson's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    Quote Originally Posted by starmom View Post
    Agreed. And I think that one would make a solid top for a tank from which to affix the RHP
    You still have the problem of a glass tank that does NOT insulate heat well... There is a difference between a 1/2in. PVC tank and a 1/4" glass aquarium... I think even if there were a way to affix a RHP to a glass tank, it's still the least efficient means of heating and expense. Although it might work alright in a heated reptile room.
    Jason

  10. #20
    Registered User clovissimo's Avatar
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    Re: Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

    I use a giant heavy dampened sponge that I place near the heat light next to the water dish. I also use a wet cloth over the side of the tank that doesnt have the lamp. I know that screen tops release more heat and moisture, but that is what I have to negate that issue and its seems to work for me.
    Wakey wakey, hands off snakey!

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