Feeding live?

[eyeofowl]

I've had my BP "Pontius" since february 06', at that time he was a little baby. For about the first month I attempted to feed him f/t or pre-killed mice but to no avail would he take a frozen or pre-killed mouse so I made the decision to feed live. Previously I had a full grown red tail boa that when I recieved him the previous owner said that he fed him live because he wouldn't take anything else. To make a long story short the red tail had multiple scars from live prey. I didn't want this to happen to my new BP but he needed to eat, so I went ahead and fed him live. It's been 10 months now and I'm continuing to feed live with no problems but he's growing and I'm feeding larger and there's now a higher potential of a rat that's going to wound the snake. For instance last week when I fed him, Pontius was being fussy. So I placed the rat closer to Pontius and he struck but missed. After 15 min. or so, he finally got the rat and the rat began to kick. This hasn't been a problem in the past because he usually gets the rat in a position to where the rat can't possibly wound him but in this case the rat was scraping his neck and I knew it would only get worse. At this point I reached in there and grabbed the rats hind legs with my tongs holding them out of reach of Pontius' body. Everything ended up being fine but it most likely was a horrific experience for my snake and I would prefer it to not happen again. The question is: How do I switch my snake from live to pre-killed? What are some methods other's use? Can someone help me with this process?

[lisa77]

I personally have never fed live as I am in UK & its illegal.


I hope someone answers you question soon..there are very knowledable people here that will be happy to help.

[rabernet]

Snakes' skin is pretty tough, actually - I have never experienced injuries on any of mine from a rat or mouse kicking at them.


I feed all of mine live mice or small/small rats (which is the largest they will ever need) each week. There's not a scar or scratch on any of mine. I also do not ever interfere with the kill.

but it most likely was a horrific experience for my snake

I doubt it - the "horrific" part for the snake might have been the other predator (you) interfering in his kill to take it from him (in his mind). But I seriously doubt he was horrified that the rat was kicking at him.

You'll find here at BP.net - we each keepers choice to feed whatever works best for them. For me, it's feeding live, for others, it's feeding f/t or pre-killed.

Since I've never fed f/t - I'll leave your question on how to convert to others more experienced in doing so.

[frankykeno]

"It's been 10 months now and I'm continuing to feed live with no problems but he's growing and I'm feeding larger and there's now a higher potential of a rat that's going to wound the snake. For instance last week when I fed him, Pontius was being fussy. So I placed the rat closer to Pontius and he struck but missed"

Couple of concerns here. What size are you feeding when you say "larger". Even our mature female BP's are never offered anything bigger than a live small rat. They might well take two of them but they are never allowed to be in an enclosed space with any live rat over a small size. This helps cut down risks to the snake and allows our snakes to self-regulate (if they aren't particularily hungry they only take the one and refuse the second that week). Even our smaller BP's are fed live rats that never leave a visible lump in their bodies (again they may take a second pup or weanling if they want it that week).

I don't understand the "placed the rat closer". When you live feed you should be placing the rat as far away from your snake as possible, not putting it closer. This allows the prey to move naturally around the enclosure and for your snake to position itself to strike cleanly when it's instincts tell it the time is right. Never force live prey and a snake into very close quarters. It may take time for the strike to occur but that's as it should be.

If you wish to move the snake over to f/t, try pre-killed first. Make sure the prey is offered immediately so it is still blood warm. You may have to use hemostats to move the rodent in a way that simulates live movement (don't dangle it by the tail...rats can't fly sort of thing LOL). Some snakes will go from live to p/k or f/t, some will not.

The best thing as far as I'm concerned is to feed what your snake will eat, in the way it will eat it. Learn as much as you can about that feeding method for your benefit, the benefit of the snake and the prey item as well (in the case of live rats/mice).

[jcaustralia]

i would try fresh killed if he is so used to live, basicly whack the rats head, and offer to the snake, it will still be wiggly and warm. should not have any issues with him taking it, after a few meals then try a f/t and see what happens. but me personally i prefer the fresh killed, no rat supply taking room in the freezer, and no afternoons wasted thawing out rats.

[rabernet]

i would try fresh killed if he is so used to live, basicly whack the rats head, and offer to the snake, it will still be wiggly and warm.

If it's still wiggly, it's still alive - and can come out of that stupor in a defensive manner and be even more dangerous than an un-stunned live prey item. Stunning prey is un-necessary. Either feed live, or feed pre-killed (killed in a CO2 chamber preferably) or f/t. Feeding stunned is a bad idea all around.

[frankykeno]

If it's still wiggly, it's still alive - and can come out of that stupor in a defensive manner and be even more dangerous than an un-stunned live prey item. Stunning prey is un-necessary. Either feed live, or feed pre-killed (killed in a CO2 chamber preferably) or f/t. Feeding stunned is a bad idea all around.

I have to say I completely agree with Robin here. Stunning prey should not be necessary for two reasons. One is the one Robin stated and I would add that if your snake is unable to handle live prey safely and efficiently, it certainly should not be offered prey that is in any way still living and should be offered only p/k or f/t prey. Also I would add that stunning a living prey item is for me inhumane to that prey item and causes it needless and unnecessary suffering.

[jcaustralia]

If it's still wiggly, it's still alive - and can come out of that stupor in a defensive manner and be even more dangerous than an un-stunned live prey item. Stunning prey is un-necessary. Either feed live, or feed pre-killed (killed in a CO2 chamber preferably) or f/t. Feeding stunned is a bad idea all around.

if not done proper you are correct, none of mine come back, they wiggle momentaraly and are dead. i make shure of that.

[jcaustralia]

I have to say I completely agree with Robin here. Stunning prey should not be necessary for two reasons. One is the one Robin stated and I would add that if your snake is unable to handle live prey safely and efficiently, it certainly should not be offered prey that is in any way still living and should be offered only p/k or f/t prey. Also I would add that stunning a living prey item is for me inhumane to that prey item and causes it needless and unnecessary suffering.

i did not say stun, if implied i am sorry, let me be a little more grafic about it, (not trying to be rude or cold), blunt force truama to the skull region, animal is dead, but the nervs still twitch for a moment longer, thus the wiggly. animal feels no pain. and there is no coming "out" of it. if snake refuses then it is frozen for a leter meal. i am sorry if this is against anyone opinion. you do it your way i do it mine. i personally do not like to see a animal of any kind suffer, gasping for air, or fighting for its life.

as far as not being able to take live prey safly, things happen, mother nature is a freak and it unpredictible at times. i have lost a snake that only took live, and was very good at it. it was a good take covering the face, rats face in snakes mouth, but the rat bit inside of the mouth, casued an abcess and died while being treated.

[Adam_Wysocki]

casued an abcess and died while being treated.

And in the past I've had abcesses on the inside of snakes mouths from the claws and teeth of pre-killed and frozen thawed ... I have yet to see any greater risk with first hand experience feeding a very large collection live rodents than I did when I used to feed F/T.

-adam